Anyone ever heard of Anti-Electrolysis additives?

RADIATOR ADDITIVE, ANTI ELECTROLYSIS Motorcraft P/N# VC-8????

Its main purpose is for diesel engines, But is suposed to protect all aluminum from electrolysis, that PITA that eats aluminum rad's. I want to add an anti-electrolysis t whatever brand aluminum rad i get, hopefully this will help me out a bit. Can it be utilized on gasoline coolant systems??

Any help-Would be greatly appreciated guys,
Thanks Anthony

P.S. Does anyone know of another brand of anti-electrolysis additive out there???

No-Havent checked the current aT ALL. HOW DO YOU GO ABOUT THAT?
Thanks for tip, Later Ant

HISSIN50 said:

Have you checked your system already (current)?

As an alternative or addition, consider an sacrificial anode. You can get them in the form of petcocks.

I haven't used that product but am curious to hear what folks say. Some of the dealership guys might have some feedback from customer cars............

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I found one on JC whiteny P/N# ZX747496U for $14.99 Its an ANODE for the cooling system.

And a Flex-a-lite zinc anode kit P//N# 32060, didnt have a price. But they are both for elctrolysis and scarifical anodes.

Thanks for the help guys!
Later Ant

P.S. water wetter is not a protection from electrolysis.

Here is a little 411~



sacrificial anode, or sacrificial rod, is a metallic anode used in a cathodic protection where it is intended to be dissolved to protect other metallic components.

In laymen's terms, it's a piece of readily corrodible metal attached (by either an electrically conductive solid or liquid) to the metal you wish to protect. This piece of metal corrodes first, and generally must dissolve nearly completely before the protected metal will corrode (hence the term "sacrificial").

More scientifically, a sacrificial anode can be defined as a metal that is more easily oxidized than the protected metal. Electrons are stripped from the anode and conducted to the protected metal, which, for this reason, is forced to become the cathode. As a result, the protected metal is prevented from corroding.

For example when zinc and iron are put together (in contact) in the presence of oxygen, the zinc and iron will lose electrons at the same time. However, as iron is less reactive than zinc, it tends to replace its own lost electrons with electrons from the zinc. Therefore, iron acts as a neutral atom and zinc as a cation (positive ion) and reacts with oxygen; the iron is "safe" until all of the zinc has corroded.

One example is the galvanic anode used in a cathodic protection system, where the intended purpose is to prevent corrosion of the protected metal (such as a ship's hull, an oil pipeline, or a hot-water heater's tank) by being less electronegative than the desired metal. Commonly used metals for such protective purposes are zinc, aluminum and magnesium.

Another example is the anode in an electroplating process, whereby the metal from the anode replaces the metal depleted from the plating solution as it is deposited on the cathode.

Any time you have two different metals that are physically or electrically connected and immersed in seawater, they become a battery. Some amount of current flows between the two metals. The electrons that make up that current are supplied by one of the metals giving up bits of itself-in the form of metal ions-to the seawater. This is called galvanic corrosion and, left unchecked, it quickly destroys underwater metals.

The most common casualty of galvanic corrosion is a bronze or aluminum propeller on a stainless steel shaft, but metal struts, rudders, rudder fittings, outboards, and stern drives are also at risk. The way we counteract galvanic corrosion is to add a third metal into the circuit, one that is quicker than the other two to give up its electrons. This piece of metal is called a sacrificial anode, and most often it is zinc. In fact, most boaters refer to sacrificial anodes simply as zincs.

It would be hard to overstate the importance of maintaining the zinc anodes on your boat. When a zinc is gone, the metal component it was installed to protect begins to dissolve-guaranteed.

How much zinc
The amount of protection a zinc anode provides depends on its surface area. The zinc surface area needed varies with the kind of metal being protected and with the chemical make-up of the water, but you can use 1% of the surface area of the protected metal as a starting point. Check the protected metal frequently. If it shows signs of corrosion despite the zinc, you need more surface area.

Zincs should be replaced when about half of the anode has been lost to corrosion. Ideally we want that to occur not more frequently than annually. The longevity of a sacrificial zinc anode is a function of its weight. When a zinc lasts less than a year, you need one with more weight.

Normally, however, you are not faced with determining the appropriate anode size (other than diameter for a zinc shaft collar). Rather, you are simply replacing depleted zincs with new ones of the same size. Check all zincs at least annually and replace all that are half depleted. Here are some replacement guidelines.

Electrical contact is essential
There is an unfortunate misconception that a sacrificial anode can be mounted anywhere, even hung over the side on a string, and it will still perform its appointed duty. That is dead wrong!

For a zinc anode to provide any protection, it must be in electrical contact with the metal being protected. The conductivity of the water is not adequate. We need low-resistance, metal-to-metal contact-either by mounting the zinc directly to the metal being protected or by con- necting the two with a wire. A hanging anode can provide protection if it is connected by a wire to the metal being protected.

Where the zinc is mounted directly to the protected metal-bolted to the side of a metal rudder, for example-it is essential to make sure the surface under the zinc is bare and bright before the anode is installed. This is to ensure good electrical contact.

No paint
Zinc anodes cannot perform their function unless they are exposed. Putting paint on a zinc smothers it, rendering it useless. Never coat zinc anodes with bottom paint, or anything else.

Props and rudders
Propellers are normally protected by a zinc collar fashioned in two pieces and bolted together around the shaft forward of the propeller. It is essential to make sure the shaft is clean and bright before clamping the collar to it. Corrosion protection for outboard and outdrive propellers is typically provided by a bolt-in-place zinc ring or a zinc prop nut.

Metal rudders and struts are most easily protected with zinc disks bolted directly to the metal. Rudder zincs have a shallow dome shape to streamline them and minimize their drag and turbulence.

Hull plates
Bonding is a different subject altogether, but boats with all underwater fittings bonded together electrically are typically fitted with one or more zinc plates bolted to the hull. The mounting bolts for these anodes are connected by heavy-gauge electrical cable to the bonding circuit. If these anodes are allowed to deplete or if the electrical connection deteriorates, other underwater metal, such as bronze through-hull fittings, will begin to corrode.

Zinc hull plates are also fitted to metal boats to protect the hull. Needless to say, such anodes must be carefully monitored.

Outdrives
The mix of immersed metals makes stern drives and outboards particularly prone to galvanic corrosion. Many are fitted with multiple anodes. Typically, these include at a minimum a sacrificial trim tab (intended to warn you of depletion by a change in steering), a zinc plate or two attached to the gear case or the anti-ventilation plate, and perhaps anodes in the exhaust cavity and in the cooling-water jacket. It is a good idea to consult your engine manual to be sure you know where every anode is located. Then check all of them and renew any that are more than half depleted.

Zinc pencils
Heat exchangers, because they are typically a copper alloy, are at risk of galvanic corrosion. To combat this, most heat exchangers are fitted with a zinc "pencil" anode. You will find it (or not) under a brass plug in the exchanger. The pencil is unscrewed from the plug for replacement. Some engines have a similar zinc pencil inside the cooling-water jacket to protect dissimilar metals in the engine. Determine if your engine and heat exchanger are fitted with internal anodes, and if so, check them at least annually. If they are half depleted. . .well, you know.

Marine suppliers are best source, as boating has the stuff all over.

Thanks hissin.......
Yes-Im running the mkviii fan, So i can imagine without even testing-I got crazy current running through the coolant. Im def getting the flex-a-lite anode, myabe 2-actually. I read that 5.0 resto has electrolysis additive as well for like $38 bucks. I dont want any probs with my new fluidyne.

Later & Thanks Anthony

HISSIN50 said:

Just grab your meter and ground the black meter lead. Set the red lead so it touches coolant (not any metal). You want to see a reading below 0.10V.

If you have an E-fan, test it with and without the fan on (an E-fan can cause the reading to increase, depending upon variables like how it's mounted).

EDIT: You posted while I pecked.

P.S. You can get the anodes from Summit if you happen to be placing an order.

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