Pics - Before and After V2 install etc

screamin gt

5 Year Member
Apr 9, 2007
394
6
28
central CT
I'm gonna start out by advising that I am not building a "show car" or a race car. I just got the bug to start doing a few things and ended up with a vortech. I just wanted something that looks nice, drives well, and has a little power when I want it. So those being the goals here is the before:

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It started out as a stock GT with spun bearings when I picked it up a few years ago for $3,500. I rebuilt it as stock but had the heads p/p and a valve job. Also upgraded to a high flow ford racing oil pump, ford racing headers, clutch, 4.10's, and MM cc plates were also installed. I dropped in some steeda springs too. Drove it for a couple seasons, and then I got the bug again...

I started out with a satin Vortech V2 that used to be a V1 but was just upgraded to V2. So it was more less brand new never ran as V2, came with the $700 upgrade receipt from Vortech too. I got it for $1800 and it came with the stainless feed upgrade, fittings, new cooler spark plugs. I also picked up a steel discharge pipe, 75mm BBK throttle body, and Trick flow plenum.

Since the upper radiator hose comes out right where the vortech is, and I figured I could use a better radiator anyway... I got this 2 core radiator off ebay that was the same dimensions as the factory one. It has the lower radiator hose very close to the stock placement and moves the upper radiator hose to where it should be, central. The radiator I got is this: 03-07 EVOLUTION EVO 8/9 2 CORE RACE RADIATOR W/12"FANS and it was only about $150 shipped.

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It also came with two fans, which I set up using the factory harness and a relay, so the center most fan turns on with the low setting. I used the relay so that both fans will run on high. (thanks to wmburns for the help with this). I also needed to make a bracket to hold the lower side of the radiator, so I went ahead and welded together a piece to do that, plus mount the fans instead of using one of those wire tie kits. Then I had that powdercoated as well.

I was also able to re-powdercoat and utilize both upper radiator brackets by re-drilling and re-tapping holes in the new locations.

Bought a new battery and relocated it to the trunk to free up space for my new reservoirs, which I picked up really cheap on ebay. Then I had them powdercoated since I'm not very good at keeping polished aluminum pretty. The coolant reservoir is actually an 05+ style. It worked out well since the lower hose is about where I needed it and the overflow tube I was able to run through the fender and out where the washer fluid fill is.

Tucked away as much wiring as I could, by just unplugging and re routing it all. I did not need to cut any wires on either side to get all the harnesses into the fenders.

Stripped down and painted engine bay, the same color as the rest of the car will be, House of Kolor Sparkle Black. This was done with the block still in the car, but I did a pretty good job. Free tip: dont tape off as much as possible, use aluminum foil where you can. Its much easier to remove than tape.

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pulley's cleaned and/or powdercoated, and timing chain cover powdercoated.

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Got a great deal on gently used BBK valve covers ($150) and decided to have those powdercoated in candy blue. Also got a great deal on the trick flow intake ($100 with bbk TB) so I had that done as well.

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I used glyptol on the valve covers (which I forgot to picture) and the trick flow intake.

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Lower Intake is on. Also had the aluminum crossover powdercoated. You can't buy new gaskets for that so you have to reuse the old ones. I noticed that coolant had begun to eat away the aluminum next to the gasket. I didnt know but it already was beginning to leak a little. So I cleaned it up and used rtv sealant around the edge of the factory gaskets for some added security. So far no leaks. But I'm glad I took this apart because it would have soon been leaking badly if I left it alone.

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Got the upper intake and Fuel rails on. Couldn't figure out how to use aftermarket fuel rails with the returnless system. So I just ended up having the factory ones powdered right over the chrome. Went with candy red to get something other than blue in there. I thought it would pop and it sure does. Not so much in the pics though.

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First pic with the blower on there, and a New alternator, I got a 160 amp bosch on ebay for $90 shipped :) and its already the right color.

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I used an ebay cheapy ($35) oil catch can that came powdercoated in gun metal. It seems ok for what it is. no complaints but I swapped out the fittings on it for better/more usable ones. I ran from that to a husky air compressor filter. I also used some left over vacuum lines to Tee both drains together and added an on/off valve to use for draining them.

I decided instead of buying the factory vortech intakes that I would just go with AFM powerpipe and similar discharge pipe ($80). I found a used AFM powerpipe for less ($180) than it would have cost for the boost robbing plastic tubing that vortech puts out.

The guy I'll be using to dyno the car, and make sure the final tune is perfect, is Mike from J+M Motorsports in Manchester CT. There is not a ton of shops in CT as far as I know. But this guy won me over with all the track pics of his cars wheelieing down the track, and he is pretty reputable here. Anyway some of the advice he gave me while part shopping... Stick with stock Ford parts where can (i.e. Cobra tank and pumps ($775), Lightning Maf ($50) and injectors ($200), Lightning (screw in) IAC sensor ($18). He also said to make sure to route the recirculation air re-enters the powerpipe at a forward angle, NOT straight into the side of the powerpipe like it comes. He said that the air going straight into the side of the pipe can cause unneccessary fluctuations in the air flow as it bounces off the side. He said to angle the inlet toward the s/c on the inside of the powerpipe, so I capped the stock inlet. I welded the new piece on the almost exact opposite side of the powerpipe as where the threaded hole is. It provides a perfect point (IMO) for entry directly in front of the maxflow valve.

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You can see the way I routed the bypass valve in the pics here, and notice my upper radiator hose to match the fuel rails. The lower hose is there too. It was a Chrome Steeda set that I did some machining to to get to fit. Also grabbed some blue silicone vacuum hoses from Siliconeintakes.com which is also by far the cheapest for T-bolt clamps too. And I know there's a lot of s.s. braided line haters here, but I like it so whatever. I may have to lose the magna clamps though and do some proper fittings cuz I hate those... What a rip off for crappy magna clamps! uhg.

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I added a Innovate wideband A/F ratio gauge and a stereo gauge pod with oil press. fuel press. and boost/vacuum gauges.

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Some of the other upgrades I didn't take pics of, are the MM full length subframe connectors ($130 NIB but second hand), redline tuning hood struts ($79 brand new on ebay), rolled the rear quarters, and I'm working on a power driver seat track install.

And I even got around to painting the calipers...

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Still need to paint the body, have some body work to do but it will be out of the garage soon. Started up yesterday and all runs well and everything (f.p., a/f, oil pr., vacuum, volts, etc.) seems to be where it should.
 
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You basically have the same setup as I do aside from the powerpipe, ported heads and you went with the Cobra tank too. With the PP and heads you should easily be close to 400hp if not a little over. My setup just only has a 75mm TB and Plenum and an OR X and Magnapacks and I put down 380/378.

Looks great! You have the gauges setup in the extra DIN slot just like me too!
 
holy chit... THAT... LOOKS... AWESOME!!!!!

nice work man, very impressive. Love the photos and the descriptions. Sounds like you really did your homework and are doing it right the first time. I absolutely love it!!!
 
You basically have the same setup as I do aside from the powerpipe, ported heads and you went with the Cobra tank too. With the PP and heads you should easily be close to 400hp if not a little over. My setup just only has a 75mm TB and Plenum and an OR X and Magnapacks and I put down 380/378.

Looks great! You have the gauges setup in the extra DIN slot just like me too!

:D I think I noticed in one of your threads somewhere that our set up was very similar. I'll be very happy with numbers like those.
 
Thanks for the kind words guys :D

As mentioned above, for not building a show car, you sure impressed me with that engine bay, liar.

No really, If you look down and around you'd see the rusty steering linkage, gooped up front axle, stock a-arms, etc... all of which I don't have the time or care (for lack of a better word) to do anything about and it wouldn't compete with anyone with the deep enough pockets to do that stuff. Plus I didn't weld any of the pointless holes that are left on all the panels from things being moved or deleted. But thanks for the compliment. :D

holy chit... THAT... LOOKS... AWESOME!!!!!

nice work man, very impressive. Love the photos and the descriptions. Sounds like you really did your homework and are doing it right the first time. I absolutely love it!!!
I did do a lot of homework and I bothered countless guys from here and other forums too on pm's. I started gathering these parts around august of last year, and changed my mind and sold off a lot of stuff without ever using it too. lol

I almost got to take it for a ride tonight before leaving for work but then my brother stopped over and I never got it out of the garage. tomorrow should be the day.

I also scored a new aluminum radiator cover / air deflector today for $10 from a local metal (machinist?) since I moved the upper radiator mounts I can't use the stock plastic one. what a sweet deal! I just have to do a couple cuts grinds and holes and it will mount right up. I'm debating powdercoating it black, silver, or blue. I dont want to go overboard with the blue.