I'm looking for a tutorial on changing the rear brake pads. I've seen countless writeups on the front, but I need to do the rear now.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Anyone have a Rear Brake Pad tutorial?
- Thread starter twogts4us
- Start date
Thanks for a useless post.
I have the tools - I bought a set.
I have a manual, I'm just looking for something a little more detailed, tips, etc.
I'm going to give you one crucial piece of advice when servicing the rear brakes. Don't do it without the special service tool. These jack screw calipers are garbage and they need a special tool to put them back in otherwise they are next to impossible to compress.
From the Ford service manual:
Removal
1. Use a suitable suction device to lower the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.
2. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
4. Inspect the pads for wear or contamination, install new if worn to or past specification.
<b>5. CAUTION: Do not allow the rear disc brake caliper (2552) to hang from the rear wheel brake hose (2A442). </b>
Remove the rear disc brake caliper bolts and position the caliper aside.
6. Remove the brake pads.
7. Remove the slippers.
View attachment 380132
<b> 8. CAUTION: Use a hub-mount brake lathe if necessary to machine the brake disc. </b>
Measure the brake disc, resurface and or install new as necessary.
9. Compress the rear disc brake piston and adjuster (2B588) into rear disc brake caliper using Rear Caliper Piston Adjuster.
View attachment 380133
Installation
<b>1. CAUTION: Install the brake pads in full axle sets. Do not install new brake pads on only one side of vehicle. </b>
Install the new slipper and brake pads.
2. Position the caliper on the anchor plate and install the bolts.
3. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
4. Lower the vehicle.
<b>5. WARNING: Use of any other than approved DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid will cause permanent damage to components and will render the brakes inoperative.
WARNING: Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with eyes. Wash hands thoroughly after handling. If brake fluid contacts eyes, flush eyes with running water for 15 minutes. Get medical attention if irritation persists. If taken internally, drink water and induce vomiting. Get medical attention immediately.
CAUTION: Brake fluid is harmful to painted or plastic surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled onto a painted or plastic surface, immediately wash it with water. </b>
Check the fluid level at the master cylinder. Add fluid if necessary.
<b>6. WARNING: Pump the brake pedal several times to make sure the caliper piston is extended to its operating position. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. <b>
Verify correct brake operation.
7. Recheck the master cylinder fluid level.
From the Ford service manual:
Removal
1. Use a suitable suction device to lower the brake fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir.
2. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .
3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
4. Inspect the pads for wear or contamination, install new if worn to or past specification.
<b>5. CAUTION: Do not allow the rear disc brake caliper (2552) to hang from the rear wheel brake hose (2A442). </b>
Remove the rear disc brake caliper bolts and position the caliper aside.
6. Remove the brake pads.
7. Remove the slippers.
View attachment 380132
<b> 8. CAUTION: Use a hub-mount brake lathe if necessary to machine the brake disc. </b>
Measure the brake disc, resurface and or install new as necessary.
9. Compress the rear disc brake piston and adjuster (2B588) into rear disc brake caliper using Rear Caliper Piston Adjuster.
View attachment 380133
Installation
<b>1. CAUTION: Install the brake pads in full axle sets. Do not install new brake pads on only one side of vehicle. </b>
Install the new slipper and brake pads.
2. Position the caliper on the anchor plate and install the bolts.
3. Install the wheel and tire assembly. For additional information, refer to Section 204-04 .
4. Lower the vehicle.
<b>5. WARNING: Use of any other than approved DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid will cause permanent damage to components and will render the brakes inoperative.
WARNING: Brake fluid contains polyglycol ethers and polyglycols. Avoid contact with eyes. Wash hands thoroughly after handling. If brake fluid contacts eyes, flush eyes with running water for 15 minutes. Get medical attention if irritation persists. If taken internally, drink water and induce vomiting. Get medical attention immediately.
CAUTION: Brake fluid is harmful to painted or plastic surfaces. If brake fluid is spilled onto a painted or plastic surface, immediately wash it with water. </b>
Check the fluid level at the master cylinder. Add fluid if necessary.
<b>6. WARNING: Pump the brake pedal several times to make sure the caliper piston is extended to its operating position. Failure to follow these instructions may result in personal injury. <b>
Verify correct brake operation.
7. Recheck the master cylinder fluid level.
pretty straight forward, hit up some brake cleaner around everything, don't forget the anti-brake squeal on the pads
The only part of your post that was possibly considered useful was, "using special tool screw the pistons back into the caliper" - otherwise, things like, "Remove wheels, remove calipers, remove pads, reassemble" are just useless common sense directions.Well if you already know everything why are you asking the question.
Dwayne
A typical StangNet response...from a Founding Member no less...
Most people with any common sence with the manual already would not have asked.
They would have read the manual and done the simple job without looking for advice on a very basic task.
I kept it simple because it is and there was no need to go into great detail.
Now if you are going to be that sensitive I think you need to get back in the closet.
Dwayne
They would have read the manual and done the simple job without looking for advice on a very basic task.
I kept it simple because it is and there was no need to go into great detail.
Now if you are going to be that sensitive I think you need to get back in the closet.
Dwayne
Oh, I've got plenty of common sense and I have read my Haynes manual - I was just looking for additional insight, tips, pics, 'watch out for this or that', 'you don't really have to ...', 'don't forget to ...' type of responses, info, answers. To respond with 'Remove wheels, remove calipers, remove pads, reassemble' - you must think I don't know my a$$ from a hole in the ground..?
If you truly believe it's that simple and you don't feel the "need to go into great detail", why bother posting?
If I'd ask for advice regarding painting my car, would you have responded, 'sand, prime, paint'?Your last line, "if you are going to be that sensitive I think you need to get back in the closet" is really childish.
I'd hardly call it advice, Killy...again, this is typical Stangnet responses. A couple good tips, and a bunch of BS from clowns who hide behind the anonymity of the internet.Pretty funny to see people complaining about free advice...
Sorry I could not resist yanking your chain mang...
Good luck with the brakes and do not forget you can borrow the caliper compressor tool from AutoZone for $40 deposit or buy it from Harbor Freight for $40.
Yeah, I bought that whole kit from Harbor Freight a couple months ago and have yet to use it...Harbor Freight is like a friggin candy store...it's a dangerous place, ain't it? 
I've done countless mustang rear brake jobs with that $5 autozone cube and never have a problem.
I know a lot of guys thinks it sucks, but it's always worked fine for me
I know a lot of guys thinks it sucks, but it's always worked fine for me
Wolvrin704
Member
You shouldn't have posted that. Now I'll have to make a trip to the nearby Harbor Freight and spend more ungodly money on tools I may use sometime in the underterminable future. You're right, its a candy store for men.
I have used the "cube" on a brake job and so have a few friends of mine. That thing works fine on calipers that work fine. These jack screw calipers are horendusly designed and it is a pain in the butt to retract them because the cube just turns them and doesn't allow you to apply much if any inward pressure.
These calipers are garbage and I'm actually considering puting crown vic or explorer rear disc's on because I just can't stand these crappy ones.
Oh ya, and I told my girl-friend the same thing about Harbor Freight =-)
Sorry I could not resist yanking your chain mang...
Good luck with the brakes and do not forget you can borrow the caliper compressor tool from AutoZone for $40 deposit or buy it from Harbor Freight for $40.
It cost $40 at HF now?
damn website, there offers are always different than the store and newspaper flyers
I'm doing my rear brakes for the first time. do I just smear the anti squeal on the outside of the pad? The Haynes manual doesn't say to use it?
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