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Anyone have this Steeda ColdAir Problem? ~PICS~

  • Thread starter Thread starter CobraRed_96_GT
  • Start date Start date May 23, 2006

CobraRed_96_GT

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May 20, 2006
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May 23, 2006
#1
  • May 23, 2006
  • #1
Well it seems as though I can't get this air sensor to stay in its designed hole do to the stability tower cross member. I used to have it wedged in the hole with the rubber bushing the stock set up had but that barely even still kept it there. Now i'v ghetto riged it w/ electrical tape. My stang hates electrical tape! Anyone else have this problem also? Im temped to weld a bracket thats held down by another screw tight collar


 

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CobraRed_96_GT

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May 20, 2006
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#2
  • May 23, 2006
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No one?
 
P

Pennywise2

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May 16, 2006
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#3
  • May 23, 2006
  • #3
Bump
 

Shiroelex

There's nothing worse than aut
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May 23, 2006
#4
  • May 23, 2006
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I had that problem with an intake I fabbed up for a 5 liter Ranger conversion. I went to Autozone, and in the "Help" aisle, they had a little package of different sized rubber grommets. I found one that was real snug around the sensor, but a tiny bit loose in the intake hole. Once I squeezed the sensor into it, while it was in the intake pipe, it held real tight. Has been great ever since.
 

DTNODYA

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Dec 15, 2005
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May 23, 2006
#5
  • May 23, 2006
  • #5
I am wondering the same thing. I fabbed a CAI for my car (i'll go take a pic) out of stainless pipe and still need a 3.00 - 3.5 inch cupler ... but I also need to know what to do with the IAT.

Kinda :OT:
Is there any way you could post a pic of the entire intake on your car? Just so I can get a feel for what angle/cupler I need at the MAF?
 

CobraRed_96_GT

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#6
  • May 23, 2006
  • #6
Well i only have my cold air kit in right now cuz im in stages to get my car smog legal but if even so im sure the accufab has it at the same angle i go get a pic
 

CobraRed_96_GT

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#7
  • May 23, 2006
  • #7
Warning high res....reveals dirt been putting off cleaning engine bay since were still getting rain


 

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DTNODYA

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#8
  • May 23, 2006
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Cool, thanks for taking the time to post those. I appreciate it. Here's what I made (minus the bottom cupler .. just a spare I threw on). I need to figure out if I should get another 45 degree cupler or just a reducer to connect to the filter/MAF.



.... then figure out what to do with the IAC. Did the steeda just come with a hole to insert the IAC into? I was thinking of just drilling a hole but don't know how to get it to stay in either (without it being ghetto). Maybe you could just relocate yours and plug the hole?
 

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Shiroelex

There's nothing worse than aut
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#9
  • May 23, 2006
  • #9
Honestly, if you could get more of the rubber that you have as the first angled coupler, I would make the whole intake out of that. That steel part is going to get mighty hot. For the IAC, you should drill a hole that's the same size as the hole it came out of on the stock tube, somewhere in the steel tube. Grab a rubber grommet, slip it in the hole, and slide the IAT in place. It should be pretty snug. It will be held in pretty much the same way it was in the stock tube. I would imagine you could mount it wherever you want in the tube, the closer to the TB being the most accurate reading for what the engine is getting.
 

Shiroelex

There's nothing worse than aut
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May 23, 2006
#10
  • May 23, 2006
  • #10
Also, Autozone sells intake couplers in a variety of sizes, down their ghetto ricer performance aisle. I found one that had inserts you could slide in, that changed the size, so I could use from a 2 1/2" intake pipe all the way to a 4".
 

DTNODYA

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Dec 15, 2005
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May 24, 2006
#11
  • May 24, 2006
  • #11
Shiroelex said:
Honestly, if you could get more of the rubber that you have as the first angled coupler, I would make the whole intake out of that. That steel part is going to get mighty hot. For the IAC, you should drill a hole that's the same size as the hole it came out of on the stock tube, somewhere in the steel tube. Grab a rubber grommet, slip it in the hole, and slide the IAT in place. It should be pretty snug. It will be held in pretty much the same way it was in the stock tube. I would imagine you could mount it wherever you want in the tube, the closer to the TB being the most accurate reading for what the engine is getting.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I thought about the heat factor ... I was trying to figure out a way to keep the pipe cool. Thought about wrapping it with something but then I figured that would just keep the hot air 'in'. I'd like to fab up some sort of circular cooling device that could be clamped around the tubing. Ya know, like those coolers that you can plug into the cig lighter and they keep drinks cold ...

The all-silicone way would work, just coupled with some stainless sections. Basically, I want some bling, got a huge piece of stainless 3 inch pipe for free (expensive pipe!), and that's what I got so far.

How much difference the heat be between different metals. For example, the steeda one, vs. a cheap chrome one, vs. stainless steel, vs. plastic or rubber ... What would be the performance difference? 1 hp?
 

CobraRed_96_GT

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May 20, 2006
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May 24, 2006
#12
  • May 24, 2006
  • #12
The rid of the auto-zone here, ima have to try the local Kregan (sp?) auto parts
 
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