anyone in NorCal?

green_fow_six said:
Apex ran into a problem with the smaller pulley I gave them so they still have my car(not their fault). =( Since I have a track day at Thunderhill on Saturday, I am having them retune it with the boost cooler without the smaller pulley. I should have some numbers by Friday when I pick up the car. Hopefully they will be able to have a more aggressive tune with the boost cooler. I'll post it here as soon as I get my car back. I'm ordering another pulley from ASP and will have to have it retuned again in a few weeks.


Okay, I was wondering how much power you were making because boost+thunderhill is often a combo that results in cracked pistons or worse. Are you going to run race gas or take other protective measures?
 
st5150 said:
Okay, I was wondering how much power you were making because boost+thunderhill is often a combo that results in cracked pistons or worse. Are you going to run race gas or take other protective measures?

I didn't get it retuned, Apex said to go ahead and wait until I get the smaller pulley. Why is running the blower at the track a bad combo? I figure if you have a good tune, it should be safe and fine. I also figured the Snow Performance boost cooler would also help it from any detonation. My numbers before the boost cooler was 336 RWHP and around 350 RWT. What kind of boost were the guys with problems running? I'm only at 6psi now. BTW I did fill with race gas this last weekend so I could run with a few more degrees of timing via the SCT switch chip.
 
green_fow_six- Sorry for the delay. You just don't see to many open track cars running boost. The motor builts up enough heat by itself being at WOT for long periods at a time.... a blower with non-forged pistons just seems like a bad longevity idea.
 
st5150 said:
green_fow_six- Sorry for the delay. You just don't see to many open track cars running boost. The motor builts up enough heat by itself being at WOT for long periods at a time.... a blower with non-forged pistons just seems like a bad longevity idea.
Thanks a lot st5150, you JINXED ME!! hehe jk. My #4 cylinder went south after my last HPDE :( Not really sure how it happened. All I know is that the piston hit the spark plug causing it to touch the electrode and breaking a part of it. It was my 3rd run of the day close to the end of it, I was at the straight aways around 5K rpm when I notice some misfiring and sputtering. I was also running 100 octane with the boost cooler. I will post a pic when I get home. Apex, did a compression test to confirm this. so now it looks like new forged block, maybe stroker. beginning of next year. Damn this fricking hobby is expensive!!!
 
Ouch, sorry to hear the bad news. A piston won't kiss an electrode unless something else has given out already (rod/piston/crank). Tossing a rod or cracking a piston is pretty common for your motor when boosted. HCI motorsports is highly recomended shop for your new motor. Ask around, their reputation preceeds them. Take your car to HCI and speak to Shaun: (916)643-2291. I'm sure he'll tell you boost+road racing don't mix. I'd be weary of anyone that tells you otherwise.
 
st5150 said:
Ouch, sorry to hear the bad news. A piston won't kiss an electrode unless something else has given out already (rod/piston/crank). Tossing a rod or cracking a piston is pretty common for your motor when boosted. HCI motorsports is highly recomended shop for your new motor. Ask around, their reputation preceeds them. Take your car to HCI and speak to Shaun: (916)643-2291. I'm sure he'll tell you boost+road racing don't mix. I'd be weary of anyone that tells you otherwise.

Thanks for the info, I'll give them a call to see their options and pricing. I probably wont get a new motor till January so I have a little time to shop around. I've also recently been told that going to forged stroker would be a bad idea for road racing.