- Nov 20, 2011
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I'm looking for some insight on this mafs. I converting to blow thru maf and am curious about the best way to install it.
Anyone running a blow thru sct ba5000???
- Thread starter musclemustangcb
- Start date
The difference is that, that particular MAF was designed to accept hot blower air vs. ambient air.
I'm not sure I understand your question. You install it somewhere between your blower outlet tube and your throttle body. Generally, you use fabric reenforced, silicone unions and elbows and hose clamps.
- Nov 20, 2011
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No, it's used with a interCooled setup. Draw thru maf is a sensor b4 the inlet if the blower. These style sensors work, but peg out easier and are not as easy to tune for drivability. A blow thru is just that, it's between blower outlet and tbody. Ideal for forced induction. By "best way to install" I meant clocking. I've heard bad things about mounting the sensor on the bottom of the pipe, I want to mount it in the side rather han the top, to kind of hide it. I have a forged 5.0l stroker with a inter cooled vortech v2@8psi(got a new pulley, heading for 12psi) Andersonpp, 60# injectors, 95mm mafs( draw thru now, converting to blow thru) 75mm tbody, 03/04 cobra fuel pumps and tank
Why are you converting to blow-through? Do you expect to gain something from that?
Also.. (this is just a side question) Why are you running 60# injectors for 8 psi? Are you planning to up the boost at some point? E85 maybe?
IMO, you just stick to the MAF setup you have now.
Also.. (this is just a side question) Why are you running 60# injectors for 8 psi? Are you planning to up the boost at some point? E85 maybe?
IMO, you just stick to the MAF setup you have now.
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Yup, I run the 60s cuz I'm heading for a total 16-17psi boost goal. Yes I know I will gain with blow thru, not so much on the power side, but on the drivability side. It's so much more easy to tune. I've seen the results with my bros pro charged 02gt. I just wanted to get some insiite on positioning of the sensor. But I guess if u guys are not that familiar with blow thru, I'll go with what I know. Btw, I get my info mostly from a friend who is a mustang dyno tuning specialist.
I've seen em, ran a blow through for a short time before going back to a draw through setup. If you're having tuning issues, then I'd suggest that you mass air transfer function not configured correctly. I cannot think of a single instance where a tuning problem was 'fixed' buy converting to a blow-through setup.
Generally, (not always) a blow-through is something that someone would use for a boosted track app or an app where a BOV is installed (maybe a turbo setup or something where the BOV was placed BEFORE the MAF).
It may be that the tuner you're using is most familiar with this type of setup. Not saying you're headed down the wrong road or anything.. just wondering what you purpose is for wanting to switch.
Generally, (not always) a blow-through is something that someone would use for a boosted track app or an app where a BOV is installed (maybe a turbo setup or something where the BOV was placed BEFORE the MAF).
It may be that the tuner you're using is most familiar with this type of setup. Not saying you're headed down the wrong road or anything.. just wondering what you purpose is for wanting to switch.
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Wow, I left out the most important reason, my bad! I'm switching to an atmospheric bov..... Sorry. Now r we on the same page? I bought a pro charger race valve. do to boost increase over 10psi, my current bypass will not suffice.
LOL... yes, that makes a difference (at least to me). Now I can see there being a reason for the switch. hehehe
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Lol, sometimes I wonder about myself lmao.....dip
. So, have u ever seen this sensor installed on the side rather than on the top of the pipe?
. So, have u ever seen this sensor installed on the side rather than on the top of the pipe?
I'm not sure what you mean by, 'installed on the side' but one of your earlier posts suggests that you're trying to mount it out of view.
IMO, you should mount it where the sensor is going to have the straightest path of air as possible. As far away from any bends before or after the meter as possible. Once installed, if you have stability problems, then it's a matter of reclocking the meter until you find the smoothest stream of air that you can.
You can install it pretty much anywhere. Since you said that you're installing an intercooler, I would suggest installing it someplace AFTER the intercooler. Low power resolution is generally not as good with a blow-through meter as it is with a draw-through meter so the more you can help getting a smooth air-stream, the better off you're going to be. On the plus side, your air-charge should be relatively consistent regardless of what ambient air temp end up being (within reason, of course).
IMO, you should mount it where the sensor is going to have the straightest path of air as possible. As far away from any bends before or after the meter as possible. Once installed, if you have stability problems, then it's a matter of reclocking the meter until you find the smoothest stream of air that you can.
You can install it pretty much anywhere. Since you said that you're installing an intercooler, I would suggest installing it someplace AFTER the intercooler. Low power resolution is generally not as good with a blow-through meter as it is with a draw-through meter so the more you can help getting a smooth air-stream, the better off you're going to be. On the plus side, your air-charge should be relatively consistent regardless of what ambient air temp end up being (within reason, of course).
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I'm installing as close to the tbody as possible, within reason. A min of 7" of straight pipe on either side of the sensor. Clocking is precisely what I mean. Once installed I will not be able to clock it. All my piping is/will be welded.
I think that,that would be a mistake. I would connect the MAF housing with couplers and hose clamps or bolted mounting flanges. Once you get it all roughed in and are able to get a good stable tune out of it, then I might look at welding the housing to the rest of the plumbing.
You never know what you might run into so don't paint yourself into a corner.
You never know what you might run into so don't paint yourself into a corner.
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Maybe ill tune it with a coupled pipe and then like u say, get it dialed in, match my clocking on my solid pipe and weld it in for good? Oh Btw this sensor does not have a "housing" its a drop in slot style mafs. Ill just buy 2 flanges and make a housing with the same diameter pipe I plan to weld the other flange to.
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I talked to Don from lasota racing. He is a hpx mafs specialist. He tells me that for a fact, clocking doesnot affect these sensors.
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