Vortech V3 Si - Bypass Valve to BOV swap issues

I have a 2003 mustang gt with a vortech v3 si a2w system. I just recently converted from a bypass valve system to a blow off valve system (as pictured.) I reused the vacuum reference line that was used for the previous bypass valves on the new BOV and now the car just will not run. It flutters terribly bad at idle, valve just continues to open and close until the car slowly dies. My car runs off speed density variables so its not an issue with the maf, what could possibly be wrong, is there a different vacuum line i should use for refrence with the new setup? The current one i am using runs to the back of the tb on the drivers side at the top of the plenum, it is marked gas/fuel, and i am also T'd into it before the throttle body if that makes a difference, how do i get my car to run right?
 

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The help I offer is a [Meaningful Thread Title] so that it draws in people with some know-how.


On your issue specifically: It sounds to me like the BOV is bad and what you have now, amounts to nothing more than a [huge] vacuum leak.

Try this: Disconnect the vacuum line from the BOV and cap it. Start the car and see what happens. [Do no] smash the gas in put it into boost like this.

Now, if the BOV is [not] bad and you discover that this is the nature of the BOV beast, then you need to re-tune. The amount of air required to operate the BOV is more than you current SD can handle on it's own.

I understand the [cool factor] involved with having something that say, "WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSH" when you let up to change gears but... The bypass works. :shrug: I would put it back together until you get with your tuner and/or somebody that can verify the operation of that BOV.
 
Well in my case, i am unable to convert back to a bypass system. To do so would require an entirely new charge pipe custom made because they do not have any aftermarket parts to do so (had to fabricate it to adapt to the new bov.) Any sways, i appreciate your response, and id like to mention that the bov i have (vortech maxflow race bov) seems to have a rating of 17 hg of vacuum and I'm pretty sure my car likes to sit at more like 20 hg of vacuum. Could this small discrepancy cause all these problems. Also, i dont understand how a retune would be needed for something that just releases air? The only difference between the two is one vents it into the atmosphere and the other recirculates it (before the tb) Thanks.
 
The help I offer is a [Meaningful Thread Title] so that it draws in people with some know-how.


On your issue specifically: It sounds to me like the BOV is bad and what you have now, amounts to nothing more than a [huge] vacuum leak.

Try this: Disconnect the vacuum line from the BOV and cap it. Start the car and see what happens. [Do no] smash the gas in put it into boost like this.

Now, if the BOV is [not] bad and you discover that this is the nature of the BOV beast, then you need to re-tune. The amount of air required to operate the BOV is more than you current SD can handle on it's own.

I understand the [cool factor] involved with having something that say, "WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOSH" when you let up to change gears but... The bypass works. :shrug: I would put it back together until you get with your tuner and/or somebody that can verify the operation of that BOV.
if this helps, heres a video of the current running condition.
 
Because your SD systems work on [Absolute Manifold Pressure] and changes the amount of air you draw, makes a huge difference.

Again, try capping the line and see if the issues at idle, resolve.