Anyone use a hayden cooling fan?

Seems a little low on cfm's. I'm running the 15" Proform. can't remember exactly but it's more than 850 cfm.

im down in Tucson, and would run an SN fan at a min or a Mark 8 fan. i dont think 1750 is enough. IIRC, the stocker pulls several hundred (or more) than that - and it is marginal for me, when we get up to 105-110*.

my two cents worth.
good luck.

I looked it up, my Proform for Mustangs (like the flex-a-lite black magic but cheaper) pulls 2800 cfm. That will give you a comparison of what cfm you might need to be at. I'd say 1700 cfm is way too low, especially with a/c.

Dont forget the amount of fin area your fan covers is also very important. I live in west AZ, where ambient temps have been 107-110* for the last 2+ weeks and continues thru this week. My dual 12" fans cover i'd say 95% plus fin area and on high they pull 2400 cfm, yet i've only needed the low speed setting to keep my motor at a constant 185* in this heat at idle & 180* when the ambient temps drop to 95*& lower at idle

A BM & others in the same class doesn't cover enough fin area sitting right in the center of the rad and would never keep my motor cool enough in this heat even with it's higher 2800 CFM rating.

just some FYI
Scott

I think 2000-2500 cfm for non-airconditioned 5.0L, and 2500-3000 cfm for an a/c'd car are probably good rules of thumb for minimums. Proper shrouding is important - just because the fan is capable of moving enough air doesn't mean all that air is being pulled across the core. Also, some of the less than integrous fan companies are notorious for rating their fans in ways that are essentially meaningless. So be careful. The ones that I've never seen any complaints about are the SPAL units, and the factory SN95, Taurus 3.8 and MkVIII units. And there's only one way to control it - go to www.dccontrol.com -- they can sell you fans to go with the controllers as well.

Lastly, you may have to oversize your fan selection because of that core. The fan probably isn't achieving it's flow rating trying to pull air across 4 rows of fin-tubes. There's more resistance to flow with that HUGE core. Truth be known, you'd probably be better off with a 16-18 fin/inch 2 or 3 row core and a fully shrouded fan. The 4th row actually adds little in the way of extra heat transfer capacity because the air passing over the last row is already quite heated from the passing over the first 3 rows - so it has little capacity to remove extra heat. My car with a/c has excess capacity with a 2-row 18 fin/inch core, a 24"X16" size (smaller than STang), and a dual SPAL 11" fully shrouded fan.

My flex fan blows cool air 6 feet above my motor with the hood open, I have a fluidyne radiator and am thinking about installing electric fans in front of the radiator, oh yeah and adding the vortech after cooler.

also, i just re-read your first post. IMHO, almost no matter what you do, you are going to need a 3G alternator to provide good juice to the fan and everything else. i would bet that fans are a bit like fuel pumps, in that their "flow" seems to increase a lot with, say 14 volts, vs 11 or 12. the heat does not help efficiency (cooling system or electrical).

I think Michael and Scott both gave you some nice info - Scott sounds like he has tried some stuff out that would be right up your alley - since he sees the same type of ambient temps as you, i would listen. Michael's stuff is top notch (Spals are very nice, very slim, but $$, IIRC). :OT: Scott, are you out toward Yuma?.

ill also toss out, that a quality thermostat makes a difference. when i was having cooling issues last year, Michael had a ton of good advice for me. i tried a parts store 180, and within a week, went to a Mr Gasket 180. no other changes, and run about 10* cooler.

just some ramblings. good luck.

HISSIN50 said:

also, i just re-read your first post. IMHO, almost no matter what you do, you are going to need a 3G alternator to provide good juice to the fan and everything else. i would bet that fans are a bit like fuel pumps, in that their "flow" seems to increase a lot with, say 14 volts, vs 11 or 12. the heat does not help efficiency (cooling system or electrical).

I think Michael and Scott both gave you some nice info - Scott sounds like he has tried some stuff out (Scott, are you out toward Yuma?).

ill also toss out, that a quality thermostat makes a difference. when i was having cooling issues last year, Michael had a ton of good advice for me. i tried a parts store 180, and within a week, went to a Mr Gasket 180. no other changes, and run about 10* cooler.

just some ramblings. good luck.

Click to expand...

HISSIN50, You are right on the money about heat affecting efficiency. 1 thing I have noticed about thermostats is that the all brass Robertshaw's you find in some parts stores are the very same ones as the Mr Gaskets. I had a brass Robertshaw 180 which was only a month old, but wanted to try the Mr Gasket version to see if anything changed. what I discovered is there the exact same stat. Nothing changed on my motor, so i'm hanging onto my Robertshaw 180.

HISSIN50, I'm using a HOWE Alum 2 core radiator ($200) thats about 2" to short but found a cool way to fab it so it fits like a stocker. I've tried the stock clutch fan (ran the hottest), then a 6 bladed Flex Fan (Cooled better than the Stocker at an idle) and now the Dual 12" Ramchargers Electric's which dropped my temps by a good 20* over the flex plus the motors Rev's much smoother and these particular fans don't draw more than 25-30 amps tops at startup, but I would highly reccomend a 3G alt upgrade although one could get by for a short time with the 2G. I pull a constant 14.5 volts even with under drive pullies, but I use the 1 7/8" overdrive alt pulley to speed it back up and I never drop below 14.1 volts at night with all acc running All I have used since I moved here 4 months ago is the low speed setting (prob 1250 CFM) with the dual's as I said above to keep my 10.7 comp 347 at 185* at an idle in 107-110+ heat. I'm very impressed with the quality of these fans, the super ease of installation (all plug in and go) and the low cost ($140)

I did fab up a piece of sheet metal (the width of the rad) that fits back inside the front opening which directs air right up into the rad. This cheap mod helped out nicely along with the 2 nose cutout's I did as the GT doesn't recieve the frontal airflow to the upper part of the radiator like the LX's do. the sheet metal fab job basically does the same thing that the stock flap under the car does only it grabs much more on coming air.

I live in Surprise,AZ over by Bell & Reems (the west side of Surprise) near the 303 SR. Do you live out this way? If so, we outa meet up one of these days.

I hope this info helps.
Take care,
Scott