anyone use this

p0prcksandc0ke · Jul 24, 2007

http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Engine/valley_girdle_pro.htm
anyone recomend it? is it worth it to drill wholes in the block?

302 coupe · Jul 24, 2007

completely useless. 100% gimmick.

RogerC62 · Jul 24, 2007

No experience what-so-ever with that type of thing. My first impression though is it's a waste of money. If bolting on much stouter heads and intake won't stop a block from twisting, that dinky girder sure won't. With the heads and intake properly torqued in place you've effectively triangulated the block. However, if the heads or intake aren't square to the world and you bolt them up, you could be preloading the block into a twisting condition which could possibly take after several heat cycles from running. I don't see it as much benefit either for additional support of lifters or pushrods. An overkill push rod guides maybe. Just my opinion, others with more engine building experience than I may verify or correct my thinking.

oscart · Jul 24, 2007

If you are concerned about splitting a block, you are better to purchase an aftermarket Sportsman or the new Boss block. Installing these brackets would require installation before honing your cylinders as they would distort your block when torqued down. I think most performance engine machine shops would not recommend these units though.

p0prcksandc0ke · Jul 24, 2007

ya thats for your responses i thought it would be a waste but i wasnt sure

mustangmike6996 · Jul 26, 2007

normally on a small block ford it will handle up to the 500 hp mark... then the first part to o its the block at high rpm... its splits right down the middle of it... im sure you can find some pics on google... but i would assume that this would help counteract the metal wanting to tear in half

65ShelbyClone · Jul 27, 2007

If 110+lbs of iron won't stay together with ten 1/2" main and twelve 5/16" intake bolts, how are four extra 1/4-20 bolts in the valley going to change anything?

2bav8 · Jul 27, 2007

Blocks split lengthwise... that thing is only going to slow you down LOL

shelbe67 · Jul 27, 2007

I think that at the very least it will help save the internals when a block does split that combined with a mainsupport system. A budy of mine did that and the block did split but the internals were still good. Either way if you are making that kind of power the factory block will eventually split in half

mustangdave · Jul 27, 2007

A great idea but the physics of the fastening system make it a waste of money: there is only one bolt that goes into the block. That bolt is located in the weakest part where the block cracks. The roll pins on the sides are really wimpy too.

iskwezm · Jul 27, 2007

my engine builder is a dealer for them and wouldnt even sell it to me

65ShelbyClone · Jul 27, 2007

65ShelbyClone said:
If 110+lbs of iron won't stay together with ten 1/2" main and twelve 5/16" intake bolts, how are four extra 1/4-20 bolts in the valley going to change anything?

My mistake, two 1/4-20 bolts.

Mustang Depot said:
Twisting in the engine block causes bore distortion resulting in catastrophic cylinder wall friction. You can lose your connecting rods, pistons, crankshaft or even your whole engine block! The Valley Girdle - Pro will add significant strength and rigidity to your engine! You will also find a gain in HORSEPOWER! In testing with the Valley Girdle - Pro a stock 2 bolt cast block survived 9,200 RPM.

The problem with the stock blocks is not twisting; it's strength in the mains. They don't split from the top down, they split from the main bolts up into the valley. I'm convinced that the only possible savior of the stock block would be a huge one-piece maincap/girdle that bolts to the pan rails. Kind of a Band Aid way to get the same effect as a 4-bolt bottom end.

Here's the factory lightweight right here:

p0prcksandc0ke · Jul 27, 2007

i dont think im going to be splitting my block just on the street so i dont think im going to need it

fasttback · Jul 27, 2007

65ShelbyClone said:
My mistake, two 1/4-20 bolts.

The problem with the stock blocks is not twisting; it's strength in the mains. They don't split from the top down, they split from the main bolts up into the valley. I'm convinced that the only possible savior of the stock block would be a huge one-piece maincap/girdle that bolts to the pan rails. Kind of a Band Aid way to get the same effect as a 4-bolt bottom end.

Here's the factory lightweight right here:

Ah...this minor engine problem could be patched up with a soldering iron, duct tape, and couple of 1/4" bolts. Also I would keep the NO2 shot down to 150 or so, because of duct tape flexing at higher HP levels.

Sicarius428 · Jul 27, 2007

JB weld!
The girdles upper and lower don't save the block from splitting. They just keep the internals together when the block does go. With all the purchase and machining cost of installing these things on a fresh block you might as well put all that cash towards a stronger block. I would have more faith in the main cap girdle than the valley girdle. There isn't much meat for some tiny bolts to grab on to in the valley.
Kevin

shelbe67 · Jul 27, 2007

the other thing you could do is keep wrapping the block with duct tape I heard that if you keep wrapping that you could crash a mans head so it should be strong enough for a block lol

Sicarius428 · Jul 27, 2007

the heat from the motor will cause the duct tape to contract making it stronger too.
Kevin

anyone use this

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My rearend needs a stud and two nuts.

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