I just had a quick question. I own an 89' LX that I just bought about a month ago. I put in a new rear with strange axles, strange spool, FRPP 4.10's. I have a new T-5 world class that the previous owner installed before i bought the car, I would've gone with a tremec. It has a fresh 306 with forged pistons, an e-cam, and ported/polished E7 heads with heavier valves and valve springs. The guy I bought it from had this engine done as well. My question to you is I have a set of AFR 165's, and an edelbrock performer intake, 70mm tb, 77mm C&L mass air sensor and 24 lb injectors. I am also currently building a DSS 347 that I bought last year that I just have not had too much time to build. I was wondering if I should maybe just bolt on the AFR heads, intake, tb, mass air, and injectors to hold me over until later when I have a little more time to bulid the shortblock. I was also wondering if I would have any piston to valve clearence issues with the 165's I was told no, but i would like to hear what some of you have to say. Also could this setup use the stock length pushrods. I have a set of the FRPP hardend pushrods. Thank guys, any help would be great.
Anyone with AFR heads, or know about install
- Thread starter Must5a0angGt86
- Start date
I believe it uses the stock length pushrod (unlike the TW's)...I use a 6.250" hardened pushrod which I believe is stock length. This is with 1.6RR's.
If you have 1.6RR's you won't have any p-v clearance issues with the valve size on the AFR's (1.9 on the intake and 1.6 on the exhaust).
I say slap them on if time/money allows
Your 347 will want a bigger set of heads/intake to run stronger but they will do.
Good choice with the intake
If you have 1.6RR's you won't have any p-v clearance issues with the valve size on the AFR's (1.9 on the intake and 1.6 on the exhaust).
I say slap them on if time/money allows
Your 347 will want a bigger set of heads/intake to run stronger but they will do.Good choice with the intake
thanks 5spd, yes I am going to be using 1.6 RR's, I have a set of Harland Sharp RR coming in the mail as we speak. The reason that I bought the 165's in the first place was I got a great deal on them brand new, never installed, from a guy that lost interest in his project car so I couldn't really pass them up. I think that I want to wait on the motor until later in the summer, or possibly even over the winter b/c I am pretty sure that I will want to sell my heads and upgrade to 185's. I figure this setup will hold me over until then....hopefully 
I will be very curious to see what kind of power it puts down. Hopefully something around 275 to the wheels, any guess? thanks for the reply.
I will be very curious to see what kind of power it puts down. Hopefully something around 275 to the wheels, any guess? thanks for the reply.Must5a0angGt86 said:thanks 5spd, yes I am going to be using 1.6 RR's, I have a set of Harland Sharp RR coming in the mail as we speak. The reason that I bought the 165's in the first place was I got a great deal on them brand new, never installed, from a guy that lost interest in his project car so I couldn't really pass them up. I think that I want to wait on the motor until later in the summer, or possibly even over the winter b/c I am pretty sure that I will want to sell my heads and upgrade to 185's. I figure this setup will hold me over until then....hopefully
Sounds good...I bet you could put down roughly 285rwhp or so...with the cam and all. Maybe more since you will have a fresher bottomend.
Fishhawk
New Member
You won't have any issues with P/V clearance with the E-cam. I have basicly the same cam with 1.6 RR's and am fine. Put the heads on and enjoy them for the rest of the summer. Make the 347 a winter project. Sells the 165's and the 306 with the E7's on it, buy some 185's and use any extra money for a new Tremec TKO500 and clutch.
yeah, that was pretty much the idea. I definitely think that is the route I am going to go. Enjoy the 306 with the afr's. Sell the 306 with the E7's and afr's separately and buy 185's. The only reason i even bought the 165's in the first place is I got a great deal on them, i paid $800 brand spankin new. So i had to capitalize on that deal. Yeah, i was really hoping for something like 270 - 290 rwhp, I hope I get there. What do you think it would run in the 1/4 with this setup. It should go pretty good. I have 4.10's, 31 spline strange axles, strange spool, aluminum driveshaft, 90/10 drasg shocks, 6 point roll cage, welded subframe connectors. So it should hook up pretty well. Thanks for the info.
Josh
Josh
Dark Knight
Founding Member
you should be able to get 270+rwhp out of it easy.. I'm close to that with 1.7's on the stock cam
FWIW, the 165 and 185's are the same casting with a different program run.. might see if AFR can open them up.. or just have them ported to the 185 size..
FWIW, the 165 and 185's are the same casting with a different program run.. might see if AFR can open them up.. or just have them ported to the 185 size..
yes, i have heard that before. I think I will try and look into that option too. I guess it all depends on how much it costs to do the job. I am keeping my fingers crossed for a good performance on the dyno next month. I hope it performs as well as I hope it is going to. I guess I will have to let you know when its all done.
89CopCoupe
Banned
Dark Knight said:...FWIW, the 165 and 185's are the same casting with a different program run.. ....
FWIW, the August '05 issue of 5.0/SF compared these two (165/185) and AFR doesn't use the same casting ... they don't want to use the CNC machines to cut off more material than is necessary ... it is way cheaper for them to have two seperate casts.
Cutting the ports to 185 spec is possible, but the power gains would be minimal (5 -10hp) while retaining the 1.90" valve.
I will tell you this much. Buy the smog plugs off of AFR. They are 8 bucks a piece or something like that but they are hard as hell to find in the store. I made a post about it a while back but I tried everything and nothing worked.
I finally called them and told them about my situation and they are like "o we have special plugs for that".
Its worth your money and will save you time.
I finally called them and told them about my situation and they are like "o we have special plugs for that".
Its worth your money and will save you time.
mustang120plus said:
Actually you can get them at a Ford Dealership - part # F4ZZ-6E086-A or you can buy some from Summitracing - part # TFS-51400265 and they run anywhere from $3 to $12 dollars from what I have seen. Summit has them cheaper.
They are called thermactor plugs.
Must5a0angGt86 said:
They are plugs that you stick in the back of your head where the smog tubes go to the back of your heads (by the firewall) if you delete the smog pump assembly.
They also go in the front to let the big alternator bracket bolt thread into the head and they also go into the driver side head (front) to thread the power steering stud in. They make the threaded hole smaller so they can thread in.
If you take your stock heads off you will see the alternator/power steering stud ones in there. Often you can't get them out because their seized up in their.
Do a search on summitracing.com with the part number above for the TFS thermactor plugs and it should give you a pic of what they look like
