anyone with an AFTERMARKET manifold, get in here

[Road_Runna]

I installed my lower intake manifold. But I have some quesiton's.

1)
The distributor rotor. When I removed it; I might of turn that rotor at the bottom, will everything be alright, as long as the #1 on top? let's say, would I have to remove and rotate it, until I get it right?

2)
Fuel injectors. When I put them back on, I noticed some of the yellow tip broke off, will they still work?
3) Again fuel injectors. If I did not push, let's say one of them all the way in, will it leak fuel?

im going to install the upper plenum tomorrow, and fire her up, but I would sure appreciate any help.

 

[90mustangGT]

On the dist. I would turn the engine by hand to the number 1 position by the mark on the balancer and then point the rotor to the number one place on the cap. If it runs but studders, it probally will be way off time, if it doesn't fire at all, turn it 180*, you could be on the opposite stroke.

Those yellow tips break off easily. They are called pintle caps and I would go to napa and order them, they are usually in stock. When I bought my used 24#'s quite a few caps were broken, Pepboys didn't have them in stock, Autozone argued thier existance, but NAPA had them. The kit comes with the cap and the washer, along with all the o-rings, but only for one injector per kit. As far as the injector not being in all the way, definatly do it over because I don't think you would be able to bolt down the rail with them not all the way in unless one was just that crooked.

I hope I helped, good luck. What manifold BTW?

 

[TheUser]

put some vaseline on the o-rings on the injectors. Yeah, you better replace those caps...it's a pain in the butt though lol. If they're broken, you better at least fix the ones that are broken.

 

[TheRedBlur]

yeah, make sure you get the right tdc, I busted the pintles off of most my injectors, the parts stores never new what a pintle was, untill i worked at a parts store I thought I had to buy a whole new set of injectors.

btw, holley heads and comp xe274 cam had a dyno test of intake manifolds.
the edelbrock performer II manifold made 91 horsepower over stock!!! 61 peak gain! man! makes me glad I bought one!! so on the manifold side, that's a good one for a motor with h/c/i...

 

[Michael Yount]

Use balancer to set the engine so it's approaching tdc on the compression stroke (either look at #1 rockers (valve cover off) to be sure both are closed, or pull a plug and notice air being ejected from the cylinder on the upstroke). Rotate the balancer until the pointer is at the timing you want the car at (12-14 dbtdc), then stab the distributor so that 1) the rotor is pointing as close to the number 1 spark plug wire as possible, and 2) so the module is halfway between limits - t'stat housing and a/c bracket. It should fire - once it does, get a timing light on it.

Follow everyone else's counsel on the injectors. BE CERTAIN they're sealed properly - 40 psi makes a hell of a mess with fuel all over the engine in a very short period of time.

 

[Road_Runna]

let's say, the rotor is not where it's suppose to be, will anything bad happen to my car, if I start it up, or drive it a couple block's?

 

[Michael Yount]

If it's far enough from "where it's supposed to be" - it won't start. If it's close enough to start - put a timing light on it and actually set the timing where it should be -- then drive as much as you want. 2 blocks, 4 blocks - heck, let it all hang out and drive 6 blocks if you like.

 

[Road_Runna]

anyone?

 

[Michael Yount]

What am I, a potted plant? Hmmm, you must not've liked my answer. I'm crushed.

 

[Road_Runna]

My bad, gonna install it right now. Thanks.

 

[Michael Yount]

Just kidding - you can't hurt it too bad -- it'll either run pretty good, or run so bad you'll know not to drive it.

 

[TheRedBlur]

yeah if it's way off you'll know it, and it probably wont start.
It's not that tough.

 

[Road_Runna]

Hey guy's thanks for your reply's.
I've started her off, and it boggled at first, so I moved the rotor, a bit, and started her off again, and it boggled again, and still wouln't start.
The third time, she fired up. No leaks between the lower and cylinder heads, and no leaks at all from the slightlly brocken fuel injector's. And I took her (Eleanor) for drive around the block. (i'll need to re-adjust the Distributor, cuz when I mash the metal (gas) it's too loose. THIS IS NOT MY NEW PROBLEM
_______________________________________________________________________
NOW, their's a problem. I've noticed that I did NOT install that metal piece, that goes underneath the Lower intake (PVC baffle), that metal mesh circle thing is in the new lower, But not that Metal piece that is held by the 2 drive pins. When I looked at the original stock lower manifold, I figured "hey oil will eventually reach up their, because it's own metal piece was not long enough to cover all of the stock lower manifold" the stock lower metal plate only went halfway past the stock lower manifold.
So im leaking oil, from the plenum (edelbrock performer plenum), im leaking a good 1/8 - 2/8 of a cup's of oil.
A lil oil is also coming from the Pvc valve, but i've heard of this problems before, and aslo heard their's a way, but I don't have a clue to how to fix this.
Any idea's.

 

[TheRedBlur]

here's a similar post on what people did, I put a pic in there and am too lazy to make it again. but you should put in the metal plate and bend the forward facing end upwards, that's the way the plates come in the new RPMII's.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=390789

hope this helps!