Anyone with Global West Negative Roll UCA experience, HELP!!

Snail50 · May 23, 2004

my original thread keeps disappearing for some reason, so here's the link. Please read through and give your thoughts on what might be wrong.
THanks!

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=4199669#post4199669

Snail50 · May 24, 2004

Snail50 said:
my original thread keeps disappearing for some reason, so here's the link. Please read through and give your thoughts on what might be wrong.
THanks!

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=4199669#post4199669

PL3ASE H3LP.

vrooom · May 24, 2004

Snail50 said:
my original thread keeps disappearing for some reason, so here's the link. Please read through and give your thoughts on what might be wrong.
THanks!

http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?p=4199669#post4199669

Did you change your display preference on the bottom left hand side of the page? (Display more that 2 pages)

What the GW tech support say about the UCA hitting the 17's?

Snail50 · May 24, 2004

vrooom said:
Did you change your display preference on the bottom left hand side of the page? (Display more that 2 pages)

What the GW tech support say about the UCA hitting the 17's?

yes, I changed the preference, but the thread disappeared within a few minutes of posting it. I'm waiting on a call-back from GW tech right now.

I'm hoping that anyone on here who has GW UCAs can give me their $.02.

BobV · May 24, 2004

No issues here. In fact the GW arms had MORE clearance than my stock 65 arms.

Snail50 · May 24, 2004

THanks Bob. yours def. has good clearance; when my wheels are straight ahead, I have about 1/4", when they are locked they touch. I already gouged one of my wheel weights...probably need to have them balanced with adhesive weights. I put the original 14" rims & tires up front to avoid damaging anything, but the ball joint still rubs the tire very slightly.

Anyway, you're running 17x8" with 5 1/8" B/S and Wilwoods. Did you got 5 1/8" to compensate for the additional offset produced by the Wilwoods?

I'm running AR 17x8" with 4 3/4 B/S. This week I will be installing a Bear 4 wheel conversion. Maybe teh Baers will give me a little additional clearance?

When you installed your UCAs, was there anything specific you did (other than follow the directions) to promote better clearance? I already adjusted my LCAs out as much as I could to get more negative camber, but it doesn't seem to help much clearance-wise.

I appreciate the help.

Snail50 · May 24, 2004

Okay, I just got off the phone with GW Tech. He said the ball-joint to rim contact is due to the backspacing of my rims. According to GW, the correct backspacing for 17x8" rims to work with their setup is 4.5"

My Baer setup might give me enough additional offset to solve this problem, otherwise I might have to run spacers or install a steering stop (I don't want to lose any more of my turning radius, though).

I'm going to call Baer now to see if my kit will give me any offset.

BobV · May 24, 2004

Snail50 said:
THanks Bob. yours def. has good clearance; when my wheels are straight ahead, I have about 1/4", when they are locked they touch. I already gouged one of my wheel weights...probably need to have them balanced with adhesive weights. I put the original 14" rims & tires up front to avoid damaging anything, but the ball joint still rubs the tire very slightly.

You should definitely switch to stick-on weights. When I ran the 16's, I HAD to have stick-ons as the clipons would contact the arm. It might get you enough clearance???? As you mentioned in your other posts, 17's DO have more clearance than 16's, so this is kind of unusual....

Anyway, you're running 17x8" with 5 1/8" B/S and Wilwoods. Did you got 5 1/8" to compensate for the additional offset produced by the Wilwoods?

That's correct!

I'm running AR 17x8" with 4 3/4 B/S. This week I will be installing a Bear 4 wheel conversion. Maybe teh Baers will give me a little additional clearance?

I've heard they will give you an extra 1/8" in the REAR. Not sure if the front Baers have additional offset or not.

When you installed your UCAs, was there anything specific you did (other than follow the directions) to promote better clearance? I already adjusted my LCAs out as much as I could to get more negative camber, but it doesn't seem to help much clearance-wise.

Nothing special for the UCA's. Had TONS of problems with the Granada spindles and bumpsteer, but the arms were an easy deal. I've installed a couple more sets since then, with no problems on those either.

If you talk to GW, ask for "Doug Nordin". He's "the man" when it comes to tech help at GW. I wasn't impressed with anyone else on the phone desk!

Snail50 · May 24, 2004

Thanks Bob. The guy I just spoke with was "Doug." Don't know his last name, but as you can see from my last post, he seemed to know exactly what the problem was and how to fix it.

He also said that the 3/8" spacer plates are optional, and will give me a lot more negative camber if I remove them.

Nice website, BTW, and nice car. I watched your race vids a few times.

Snail50 · May 24, 2004

I also just got off the phone with Baer, and the guy I spoke with wasn't sure if my kit will widen the front track at all.

BAD67FUN: if you read this, you've got another PM.

BobV · May 24, 2004

I'm not sure that I completely agree with their backspace assessment. 4.5" is correct for 16x8's, but lots of people are running 17x8 4.75" BS with STOCK UCA's, and the GW arms have MORE clearance... Mine's a good example - 5.125" BS - the .375" Wilwood track change = 4.75" backspace!

Oh well - I'd change your wheel weights, and get the Baers on there, then see where you're at. You do have the steering stops still on the strut rods???

I've debated taking their 3/8" spacers and angle-milling them for additional positive caster. But, with the adjustable strut rods, it's not really a problem...

Snail50 · May 24, 2004

yes, I have the stock strut rods with steering stops.

Snail50 · May 24, 2004

BobV: are you using the 3/8" spacer plates on yours?

BobV · May 24, 2004

Yes. I was able to get -1/2* camber & +2-1/4* caster with a minimum of shims, and without changing the strut rod length.

Snail50 · May 24, 2004

thanks. I'm trying to visualize what I can accomplish by removing them.

It will essentially "shorten" the UCA, which will relocate the balljoint inboard by 3/8". That will cause the top of the spindle to tilt inward, which will slightly lower the position of the balljoint in relation to the rim, I think.

I think I'm going to think myself and everyone else who reads this right into a migraine....

vrooom · May 24, 2004

I know this sounds like a stupid question, but did you meausre you wheels to be sure they are 4.75 BS?

MCABOSS · May 24, 2004

Maybe I missed the original jist of the question, but I have 15 X 7 Magnum 500's on mine with no clearance problem. The question might be do you really need 17 X 8s?

Snail50 · May 24, 2004

vroom: yes, I checked the b/s as soon as I took delivery of the rims.

MCA: I need at least 17" rims to clear the Baer disc brakes.

streetgrande69 · May 24, 2004

Hi snail, sorry to chime in so late. Yes, I’m running 17x 4 3/4" bs, and here is a pic of the clearance of the rim to ball joint.

You said the clearance with the stock units was bad, that’s why you went to global west......????

Snail50 · May 25, 2004

Hey Eric. THanks for replying. My original clearance (stock UCA, stock location) was fine, but now with the GW UCAs, which mount 1 3/8 lower, I'm rubbing the balljoint against the rim on lock.

Did you notice if your Baer brakes gave you any additional offset?

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