JCBeaver's 1993 GT Coyote Swap "The Never-Ending Project"
- Thread starter JCBeaver
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ok cool. Glad it worked out for you. Just did not for me. Didn’t want to risk it any further.
No biggie, just another day into this build
yeah FRPP seems to be very simple to wire up but there always is something lol. I‘m confident it will be all good. Only thing I’m unsure about is how much of the old harness can I remove. I am trying to figure out how is the brake switch/ lights, clutch switch, etc are being powered if I remove the harness. Still need to re read the control pack manual again to look for those stuff.
Thanks man! I’m only learning with all of this. Wish I had a little more skills especially electricals but I am getting by!
Glad you like the project! Pretty much is my pride and joy even though there were times I wanted to burn it to ground
eighty5fox
Mustang Master
ok cool. Glad it worked out for you. Just did not for me. Didn’t want to risk it any further.
No biggie, just another day into this build
yeah FRPP seems to be very simple to wire up but there always is something lol. I‘m confident it will be all good. Only thing I’m unsure about is how much of the old harness can I remove. I am trying to figure out how is the brake switch/ lights, clutch switch, etc are being powered if I remove the harness. Still need to re read the control pack manual again to look for those stuff.
Id like to know how much i can remove also. I did not pull my dash and pull out the wiring mess underneath it like you did. At least not yet, I have future plans to put in a s197 dash and then i will deal with that. Not sure what the answer is for what to do with factory wires and so on. Or if its more simple to just run my own harness to lights horn blinks etc. Ill keep watching your build progress. You will not regret it i promise you that. What year is the motor? I must have missed it. And it looks like the sn you are parting has front coilovers. If so are they for sale?
eighty5fox
Mustang Master
Has anyone transplanted a SN95 radiator into a fox? Let me know.
I have this nice aftermarket radiator from 98 GT and would love to re-use it rather than spending on a new one. I am thinking about fabricating lower brackets from the SN95 on my fox. Need to mock up the radiator first and see if I can find a mobile welder
I just seen you put this. I was able to install a 99-04 cobra radiator in my swap. Worked out perfectly. I used the provided upper hose from the frpp control pack and a lower hose that lmr sells. The radiator does not have a cap so i added the coolant over flow over it like a factory coyote car would have.
how did you mount the lower and upper brackets?
I kind of gave up on this idea and plan on re using my fox radiator.
We will figure this out together then!
I spent some time reading the control pack manual and schematics today and I want to say it looks like I need the ECU in place to power the lights and stuff because all the wires go to ecu and the fuse box. That’s on top of my head. Need to look into fox wiring schematics. I see the control pack has a few auxiliary inputs that will allow us to connect a few other things that need switched power. Got to figure out how to intertwine everything together. Not going to be that simple. I hope I really don’t have to put the factory ecu back in considering I was hoping to use this opening for the power distribution box.
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This bad boy is officially in!
Now I can breathe and start to work on buttoning everything up. Got a lot to do now.
1. Install braided lines for hydroboost/PS
2. Transfer 300lph fuel pump from 98GT
3. Install braided fuel lines
4. Route fuel lines and power wire under the body to the back
5. Install battery in the trunk (really don’t want to but looks like I don’t have a choice.
6. Wire up the control pack and the Dakota cluster
7. Install dash back in
8. Assemble front suspension back together
I also managed to pull the fuel tank off the 98 GT so I can steal the 300lph pump that’s in there. That’s all for today!
Now I can breathe and start to work on buttoning everything up. Got a lot to do now.
1. Install braided lines for hydroboost/PS
2. Transfer 300lph fuel pump from 98GT
3. Install braided fuel lines
4. Route fuel lines and power wire under the body to the back
5. Install battery in the trunk (really don’t want to but looks like I don’t have a choice.
6. Wire up the control pack and the Dakota cluster
7. Install dash back in
8. Assemble front suspension back together
I also managed to pull the fuel tank off the 98 GT so I can steal the 300lph pump that’s in there. That’s all for today!
eighty5fox
Mustang Master
I also removed my entire factory computer and did not need it for the wiring. So that is def not needed. But all of the other mess is a different story. I just have not had time to see what i can do to mate the frpp computer to wire in the lights. For the newer radiator i actually made a tubular radiator support and welded tabs on the top of my radiator to bolt it to my upper radiator support using existing U bolts. I also used a corvette c5 fuel filter for my return if you have not figured that out yet. You could get a lot of good info from the Youtube channel called Strokercoupe. If you are planning on running heat and dont want the lines looped in your upper intake like they are you could use stock coyote hoses and cut them and mate with other hoses using barbs or i think lmr sells hoses that work. I used the stock hoses from a 2011+ gt because they use the push lock fittings and i just cut the ends. Good luck sorry for writing a novel.
Thats relieving. On the control pack, we do not connect anything specifically for the lights so it was a little puzzling on where the lights would get their power from. Thinking about it now, they probably get the 12V from ignition switch considering the ignition will be powered by the control pack distribution box.
Did you also pull out the factory fox fuse box?
So the brake switch is powered by the ignition switch after all-
Ignition Switch diagram:
All of the lights including the brake lights are powered by direct connection to fuse box and battery. this is where it gets tricky I suppose. In this case, I am positive you kept the fuse box intact considering you were able to get your lights to function? And I suppose you also connected the "yellow fuse link" to 12V post to provide 12V to the fuse box, correct? If I am looking at it correctly, only one 12V fuse link is powering the fuse box.
Same goes for the clutch switch. this switch is powered by the ignition switch connector too so that explains why I saw a wire up to one of the blue wires on the harness on the 98GT donor car.
I am thinking I probably have to keep the fuse box system intact but might want to transfer over to something smaller/simpler since I dont think we are using everything on this fuse box. I probably am digging way too deep at this point. We shall see what I end up doing. I just want to drive this bad boy sooner than later!
Ignition Switch diagram:
All of the lights including the brake lights are powered by direct connection to fuse box and battery. this is where it gets tricky I suppose. In this case, I am positive you kept the fuse box intact considering you were able to get your lights to function? And I suppose you also connected the "yellow fuse link" to 12V post to provide 12V to the fuse box, correct? If I am looking at it correctly, only one 12V fuse link is powering the fuse box.
Same goes for the clutch switch. this switch is powered by the ignition switch connector too so that explains why I saw a wire up to one of the blue wires on the harness on the 98GT donor car.
I am thinking I probably have to keep the fuse box system intact but might want to transfer over to something smaller/simpler since I dont think we are using everything on this fuse box. I probably am digging way too deep at this point. We shall see what I end up doing. I just want to drive this bad boy sooner than later!
Got some things done over the weekend. A lot of small details - I guess I will go ahead and bore you guys with the details:
Pulled the 31 spline yoke from the 98 driveshaft and put it on my aluminum shaft so I can use it with the current T45. I replaced the U joint with a new MOOG greaseable joint while I was at it. I bought harbor freight 5 inch table vise for this reason alone and it is well worth it. A long over due purchase anyway.
*Ignore the mess! My garage is all clean now I promise
Painted the steering rack, PS pump, and the steering shaft all black while I have them out. I used Rustoleum high heat paint from home depot. Came out good, better than banged up look they had before. Now I have to try my best not to bangh them up again, but of f-ing course,. I realized that I would like to pull the barb out of the PS pump and tap the hole for AN fitting... That is going to mess up the paint a bit
Chasing correct fittings for your PS rack is never fun.. I am already down 4 fittings and none of them fit properly. I have concluded that the fittings on our ford PS racks are NOT metric. I know everyone wants to tell me to get the maximum motorsports fittings but I say they can suck it - they want nearly $50 for 2 fittings that are widely available in the industry... Dont get me wrong I like maximum, but the fact that they wont share the measurements and want to charge almost $50 for two fittings give me some bad taste in the mouth.
For the low pressure port on the rack, everyone claims it should be M16x1.5. I started off with a Fragola (460816-BL) -8 AN to 16mm x 1.5 Male. Did not want to thread all the way in. I stopped there and then went to get Earl Performance (961955ERL) Steel power steering fitting with 16mm x 1.5 male threads. This one wouldnt even thread in to begin with.
The high pressure port is supposed to take in 14mm x 1.5 and I was able to get the adapter fittings screwed in but both 14mm fittings I got screwed in rather loose. Even though, I was able to screw in and tighten, it is not the perfect fit. I suspect that it has different threads than 14mm x 1.5 but it was close enough that the 14mm was able to fit.
This is where I stopped at yesterday. I will just take my rack to the JBA Speed Shop a few miles away from me and have them help me get the correct fittings. May be SAE after all. Cool folks over there I am positive they should square me away.
Mounted the ECU in the firewall. This is not a show car so I was perfectly fine with this mounting location. Clean enough to me. I pretty much forgot all about the strut tower brace, but I think I may have lucked out and managed to leave enough room for the STB to fit under the ECU. Pretty sure the STB I have wont work with the coyote without modifications anyway so I will get to that later.
Pulled the 31 spline yoke from the 98 driveshaft and put it on my aluminum shaft so I can use it with the current T45. I replaced the U joint with a new MOOG greaseable joint while I was at it. I bought harbor freight 5 inch table vise for this reason alone and it is well worth it. A long over due purchase anyway.
*Ignore the mess! My garage is all clean now I promise
Painted the steering rack, PS pump, and the steering shaft all black while I have them out. I used Rustoleum high heat paint from home depot. Came out good, better than banged up look they had before. Now I have to try my best not to bangh them up again, but of f-ing course,. I realized that I would like to pull the barb out of the PS pump and tap the hole for AN fitting... That is going to mess up the paint a bit
Chasing correct fittings for your PS rack is never fun.. I am already down 4 fittings and none of them fit properly. I have concluded that the fittings on our ford PS racks are NOT metric. I know everyone wants to tell me to get the maximum motorsports fittings but I say they can suck it - they want nearly $50 for 2 fittings that are widely available in the industry... Dont get me wrong I like maximum, but the fact that they wont share the measurements and want to charge almost $50 for two fittings give me some bad taste in the mouth.
For the low pressure port on the rack, everyone claims it should be M16x1.5. I started off with a Fragola (460816-BL) -8 AN to 16mm x 1.5 Male. Did not want to thread all the way in. I stopped there and then went to get Earl Performance (961955ERL) Steel power steering fitting with 16mm x 1.5 male threads. This one wouldnt even thread in to begin with.
The high pressure port is supposed to take in 14mm x 1.5 and I was able to get the adapter fittings screwed in but both 14mm fittings I got screwed in rather loose. Even though, I was able to screw in and tighten, it is not the perfect fit. I suspect that it has different threads than 14mm x 1.5 but it was close enough that the 14mm was able to fit.
This is where I stopped at yesterday. I will just take my rack to the JBA Speed Shop a few miles away from me and have them help me get the correct fittings. May be SAE after all. Cool folks over there I am positive they should square me away.
Mounted the ECU in the firewall. This is not a show car so I was perfectly fine with this mounting location. Clean enough to me. I pretty much forgot all about the strut tower brace, but I think I may have lucked out and managed to leave enough room for the STB to fit under the ECU. Pretty sure the STB I have wont work with the coyote without modifications anyway so I will get to that later.
Bulk of my time over the weekend was taken up by the fuel line install. A lot of time were spent on visualizing, measuring, cutting, and swearing.
I cut the old fuel lines out and got gas all over me and stunk up the garage/house for a quite bit... It was fun with the wife
Installed SN95 fuel hanger into my tank so I can have 3/8 feed line rather than 5/16. Also plumbed the adapter fittings to allow me run 6AN fittings.
It was my first time dealing with PTFE braided lines and fuel system as a whole. After cutting out the old lines, I had to visualize the routing; I used zip ties to get the idea of how i want it and then work on cutting the hoses. The cutting part is a little tricky - I decided to go out and get 6 inch chop saw from Harbor Freight for $30 after 20% off. Pretty much was my life-saver.
I pretty much followed the rear brake line routing along the passenger side and then I crossed it to the middle past the rear most subframe brace. Everything seems to be out of the way so I should be golden. I also mounted the fuel filter in the factory location. works well!
I used Fragola PTFE hoses and fittings. Works well, however, I recently got a couple of 90* fittings by Red Horse Performance from JBA Speed Shop and I must say the quality is very good and was much easier to slip on the fragola hose than their own Fragola fitting. If you make the cuts clean enough then it should not be an issue.
I cut the old fuel lines out and got gas all over me and stunk up the garage/house for a quite bit... It was fun with the wife
Installed SN95 fuel hanger into my tank so I can have 3/8 feed line rather than 5/16. Also plumbed the adapter fittings to allow me run 6AN fittings.
It was my first time dealing with PTFE braided lines and fuel system as a whole. After cutting out the old lines, I had to visualize the routing; I used zip ties to get the idea of how i want it and then work on cutting the hoses. The cutting part is a little tricky - I decided to go out and get 6 inch chop saw from Harbor Freight for $30 after 20% off. Pretty much was my life-saver.
I pretty much followed the rear brake line routing along the passenger side and then I crossed it to the middle past the rear most subframe brace. Everything seems to be out of the way so I should be golden. I also mounted the fuel filter in the factory location. works well!
I used Fragola PTFE hoses and fittings. Works well, however, I recently got a couple of 90* fittings by Red Horse Performance from JBA Speed Shop and I must say the quality is very good and was much easier to slip on the fragola hose than their own Fragola fitting. If you make the cuts clean enough then it should not be an issue.
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Sometimes you got to marvel at some people's ignorance. The previous owner for some reason thought it looked good with the oil filter relocation hoses like this:
The hoses were crossed up and bent in an odd way that does not look good at all.
After 10 minutes, I managed to make it look a lot better. Sometimes just got to give it a few more minutes to do it proper!
I flipped the hoses at the block so they would come out straight. I need to confirm that this is not going to be a problem, but ahh I can sleep better now
EDIT: Turns out I was not supposed to flip the hoses. Even so it was not done neatly. I will redo and figure out better way to route it while crossed up.
However, I must say I hate this oil filter relocation kit... The bracket held on by 2 oil pan bolts makes me VERY nervous.. Not the best design. I will definitely be looking into better options after I get her back on the road.
That's all for now. I should be wrapping up the hydroboost hoses in the coming days. I ordered more 6AN fittings from Summit, which should get here tomorrow(I decided that 8AN for the low pressure hoses is an overkill so I am sticking with my leftover 6AN hoses). Will be stopping by performance shop today to get correct fittings for my rack. Once I have the hydroboost all set, the only hard part i have is the wiring then the rest are quite easy bolt on's.
The hoses were crossed up and bent in an odd way that does not look good at all.
After 10 minutes, I managed to make it look a lot better. Sometimes just got to give it a few more minutes to do it proper!
I flipped the hoses at the block so they would come out straight. I need to confirm that this is not going to be a problem, but ahh I can sleep better now
EDIT: Turns out I was not supposed to flip the hoses. Even so it was not done neatly. I will redo and figure out better way to route it while crossed up.
However, I must say I hate this oil filter relocation kit... The bracket held on by 2 oil pan bolts makes me VERY nervous.. Not the best design. I will definitely be looking into better options after I get her back on the road.
That's all for now. I should be wrapping up the hydroboost hoses in the coming days. I ordered more 6AN fittings from Summit, which should get here tomorrow(I decided that 8AN for the low pressure hoses is an overkill so I am sticking with my leftover 6AN hoses). Will be stopping by performance shop today to get correct fittings for my rack. Once I have the hydroboost all set, the only hard part i have is the wiring then the rest are quite easy bolt on's.
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The seals blew out. What I mean is: After driving on them daily for a year, I'd find grease slung up on the bottom of the car.
I eventually went back to sealed units after having the discussion here (somewhere). Last time I put new u-joints in they were sealed units. They're still in there but I haven't put
for miles on the car since then. I was DDing something else by the time I did the new motor etc.
67coupe
Founding Member
Correct me if I'm wrong, but it appears you swapped the lines at the remote filter mount. If so, you might have reversed the direction of flow through the oil filter. Oil will not flow through the filter backwards. You will destroy the engine if run this way. A co-worker a mine ruined a coyote for this exact reason
Do some research and make sure the ports on the block adapter go to the correct port at the remote filter. This diagram is from Maximum Motorsports relocation kit.
Do some research and make sure the ports on the block adapter go to the correct port at the remote filter. This diagram is from Maximum Motorsports relocation kit.
Good
the fact it ran properly before I flipped it tells me it was installed correctly so I definitely will flip it back as there are ports on certain sides like you pointed out.
Good call! I definitely was going to look into confirming this before doing anything. I guess you just did the homework for me. Thank you! I will flip it back and try to get it to look better than beforeCorrect me if I'm wrong, but it appears you swapped the lines at the remote filter mount. If so, you might have reversed the direction of flow through the oil filter. Oil will not flow through the filter backwards. You will destroy the engine if run this way. A co-worker a mine ruined a coyote for this exact reason
Do some research and make sure the ports on the block adapter go to the correct port at the remote filter. This diagram is from Maximum Motorsports relocation kit.
the fact it ran properly before I flipped it tells me it was installed correctly so I definitely will flip it back as there are ports on certain sides like you pointed out.
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