TheI'm gonna jump in here and say leave the under drive pullies on a shelf. They cause more problems on a street car than the couple hp's they give ya is worth.
Now lets talk about that e cam, it's a good choice if it was still 1995 or even 2000, but it's 2017 and technology has progressed, the aftermarket has put time and money developing better stuff for our 5.0's including cams, take advantage of their hard work and get something that will be better suited for the heads your getting and what you plan on doing with the car.
Keep us updated on what your doing and how your doing it.
The pullies are already on the car.I'm gonna jump in here and say leave the under drive pullies on a shelf. They cause more problems on a street car than the couple hp's they give ya is worth.
Now lets talk about that e cam, it's a good choice if it was still 1995 or even 2000, but it's 2017 and technology has progressed, the aftermarket has put time and money developing better stuff for our 5.0's including cams, take advantage of their hard work and get something that will be better suited for the heads your getting and what you plan on doing with the car.
Keep us updated on what your doing and how your doing it.
Did you already buy the procomp heads?
I have the heads. They came off my buddies grandfather's drag car. They've been worked on.The pullies are already on the car.
And you are building a drag car?I have the heads. They came off my buddies grandfather's drag car. They've been worked on.
An
And you are building a drag car?
No. To much time and money involved. Hopefully just a very fast street car. Although there is a drag strip about half a mile from my house.An
And you are building a drag car?
welcome.I have a 90 fox. It was a dog compared to my 06 Stang. I no longer have the 06 so I'm building up 90. Installed are cai, bbk 76 throttle body, trick flow upper and lower intake, under drive pullies, bbk headers, off road exhaust. Not installed yet are, pro Comp heads, e303 cam hydraulic rollers 24lb injectors, bbk maf. Is there anything else I should consider?
Tb is a 75. The cool thing about my not installed parts list is I haven't ordered the parts yet. That's why I put the post up, for input. And i do appreciate the input. The pro I did a lot of research on the heads. I got them cheap and I know why. The gentleman who originally had them owned the drag strip down the road. I'm going to ask him about the work done to them.welcome.
not to sound harsh, but I am not a fan of your parts list
- BBK doesnt make a 76 MM TB- is it 75 or 70? 70 is more than enough for your power level
- BBK MAF- should use PRO M 75 or 80MM
- UD pullies- take them off and put the stock ones back on, They cause more problems with cooling and charging and are not worth the 5hp at 4000 rpm
- Pro Comp heads- horrible hardware and casting flash and are known for leaks and cracking. If you are having them worked on and also new valvetrain installed, I guess you will be fine, but the question is for the money you need to invest in them to get them to perform, you can just buy a set of TFS or AFR heads that are proven. Whatever way you go make sure you have valve springs matched to your cam. Also, for less than $500 you can also get a set of used Gt40's for $150, put on a set of Alex's springs for $125, new valve seals $50 and have a machine shop magnaflux hem and check the valvetrain is good $150 or so and have a good set of heads that make around 275rwhp- probably within 10-15hp of stock ProComp chinese crap heads.
- Cam- tons of better choices- TFS 1, Comp cams, Anderson N41 or custom.The E cam is known to cause idle problems and its power band doesnt come on until 300o rpm
- CAI- know that aftermarket ones are for show only and dont offer any more performance gain over the stock CAI with a K&N panel filter and you should get a MAF for a fenderwell CAI
You will also need to get new
- pushrods- you will need to measure for proper length
- ROcker arms
- Head bolts/studs ARP
- Harmonic balancer- don't put your old stock unit on. Get a Pioneer or Romac
- Headers- Ford Ceramic coated shorties are the best. BK are ok but dont get chrome
- Timing chain- get a Ford Motorsport or Crane set
- Head Gaskets- Felpro 9333Pt1
- intake/timing cover, water pump, exhaust bolts- etc- get ARP
- Water pump- get a new one- Ford racing, Edelbrock
- Valve cover gaskets- get the Felpro rubber reinforced with steel
- Thermostat- put a new 192 degree one in. I prefer Mr/ Gasket and test it in boiling water. You can get a 180 degree if you live in the South
- Injectors- never been a fan of 24's. they are IMO too much for a stock motor and sometime not enough for a built motor. I would go with 30#'s injectors and a matched MAF and that will give you room to grow and not max out the injectors.
- Fuel Pump- you need to upgrade from teh stock unit. I would go with a Walbro 255
Things not needed but a good upgrade to do
- Adjustable FPR- this will allow you to tune the car if needed. I like the Kirban as it is rebuildable.
- radiator- I would upgrade to an aluminum 2 core to handle the extra HP. Champion. Mishimito, and SVE are the more popular ones used, Be Cool, Ron Davis and Griffin are top notch as well but double the price
- alternator- I would upgrade to a 3g as the stock 65 amp is terrible and a fire hazard
- E Fan- the stock clutch fan works great but an E fan will free up some engine space and maybe 5-10 hp. The Ford Taurus. Contour, and MKVII are the ones to get with a good controller like FAL 33054 or DCC unit.
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