That, my friend, is a false statement. The AOD crossmember & the t5 are different.
However, I'll give you the benefit of the doubt, and say that the AOD crossmember can be modified (fairly easily) to work with the t5.
The AOD mounts farther back on the crossmember than the t5 does, so you'll have to grind off the welds where the crossmemeber meets the bushing tube things so you can slide the crossmember forward to align properly.
Also, you need a different slip yoke for your driveshaft. The driveshafts themselves are the same length, but the AOD uses a different yoke than the t5 does.
I found lots of things that were different to popular belief, when i did the swap.
I did the t5 swap and i didnt even touch the xmember, fit right up to the t5. I think we flipped it around, it was right on the end though. The xmembers are the same, its just where they are welded on the bushing sleeve, which is a different location from an AOD to a t5 car.
While its reccomended to get a new tranny mount, they are the exact same mounts, i used the AOD mount i had, the mount the t5 i had was shot.
the driveshafts, the AOD shaft is a TAD bit longer, like 1/8th to 1/4 inch. While it wouldnt matter. The AOD yoke is different as stated above., if u look inside, there is a ring about 1.5 inches from the end, when stops the DS from going in all the way. You can use the shaft, i did for a while, but i dont reccommend it. I got a t5 shaft, but it was trash, so i was forced to use my AOD shaft, i had to force it up , had to hit the shaft, and wheni took it out, had to do the same thing. Hard to get in and out, It wouldnt clean the pinion nut thing. I tried putting the t5 yoke on the AOD shaft, it uses smaller Ujoints. so its impossible.
I ended up getting a DS from an older model, its skinnier, might be from an older fox stick car or a c4 car, but it fits and works good
I bought the spacer plate from 50resto, bc i wanted to do the swap right. but i have heard numerous places that you dont absolutly need it, but i would rather have it right so....
I also highly reccomend getting an alum quadrant, and installing it BEFORE you install the pedals. Much easier, i waited and had to do it with the pedals in car, and it wasnt fun. you will be doing the swap sooner or later. the stock setup is junk and wears out. Do it while its easy.
also something to note, when you get an alum quadrant, you HAVE to get some sort of adjustment piece, be it an adjustable cable or a firewall adjuster.
I reccommend the adjustable cable. This way your changing the actual length of the cable, rather than just putting pressure on it with the FWA.
Just pay attention to detail and do it all right, dont hack anything up and it will turn out good. Get every nut and bolt ready and layed out b4 u start the swap. Will go smoother.
I found the swap LOADS easier than everyone or any guide made it seem. Its just a little pedal swap (which is the harder part) and routing the clutch cable and a normal clutch job is all it is.
When I did my T-5 swap My driveshaft and crossmember worked perfectly with no modifications .
If you look up under your car the crossmember supports the tailshaft of the tranny and the tranny mount bolts to it , you cant miss it .
and yes you can have your DS machined if it does not fit , but remember it may not be necessary .
As far as your speedo gear is concerned if by your calculation on the chart a 17 tooth is called for then that is what you should use , that being said I am not sure if there is such thing , I know there is a 16 tooth which will probably get you pretty darn close .
You have other options to recalibrate your speedo . Stewart warner makes a gearbox that hooks up in series with your speedo cable and allows you to adjust for many different gear and tire combinations . do a search for it .