AODE- OD question...

Yellow302

Member
Mar 2, 2003
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NJ
Ive been todl that 4th gear or over drive is not meant for wot shifting and is too tiny to hold up to alot of power being dumped on it.

Anyone else feel this way?

Ive got 3:73's and im maxing them out already... i'll need something closer to stock so i can get more MPH out of 3rd gear
 
I would agree but I can't give you any hard data to prove or disprove it.

Physically looking at the OD band compared to the rest of the tranny, it does not look like it would be great at WOT shifting for very long.

I have my 3-4 WOT shift at 7000rpm and the 3-4 shift schedule pegged at high throttle positions so that it never does it. I also try to hit the OD cancel button at the track when I remember.

I can tell you from experience that a burnout on a cold stock tranny/converter is not a good idea.

Wes
 
the overdrive band will burn up pretty quickly if it is subjected to WOT. the computer should not even try to shift into 4th it is in WOT mode

if you need more speed at WOT, then you should go to a lower gear
 
In a high powered car letting it shift to OD ONCE can destroy the tranny - not just OD, but the whole thing. Another really bad thing is to do 4-2 kickdowns with an AOD-E - absolutely detsroys transmissions.
 
In a high powered car letting it shift to OD ONCE can destroy the tranny - not just OD, but the whole thing. Another really bad thing is to do 4-2 kickdowns with an AOD-E - absolutely detsroys transmissions.
wow ... that is bad news for me ...

mine seems to have a short between the SS1 and SS2 solenoids and appears to go into OD when it shoud be 1st or 3rd (when either solenoid is supposed to be energized, they both get power). it was just rebuilt too, but the guy didn't address the shifting issue (he said he couldn't figure it out) :mad:

i haven't driven it much since the rebuild because of the shifting issues ... maybe it hasn't been ruined yet :(

how does it destroy the rest of the tranny ... debris from the burned up OD band?
 
It's all about momentum and the rotating parts and what the band has to do to stop the momentum of the parts, and get other parts moving fast - that's it very basically. And there is nothing you can do to strengthen the OD band and the way it works. Even a built tranny has this problem. When I do tunes, I always setup the tranny like Wes said - set the 3-4 MPH shift point at high TP to 127 and set the WOT RPM shift point 3-4 shift RPM to 7000. But you still need to lock out OD at the track to be sure.

Some tranny builders may say you can go to a kevlar band, and while it's true the kevlar will keep the band from burning up, what will then happen is the kelvar will slip, which creates heat which hurts tranny life, plus you still have the problem of the momentum of all those rotating parts.

I have my Gen 1 Lightning set up on a OD switch that defaults to OFF, just the opposite of the way Ford does it, that way around town and at the track, OD is off. On the highway, I can enable it - and my tranny, the E4OD isn't as susceptible to that problem as an AODE/4R70W.

Don
 
:bang: I need to take a picture of my O/D band. I got THREE shifts into O/D at WOT. That's it. Normal highway driving ate the band down past the rivets by the time I got the transmission out. When it really started hurting it, I was in the middle of moving. The drive from KS to MO killed it off. Fluid looked like old nasty coffee. :x

Don and I talked about it on my tune and I asked him to move the 3-4 shift up as high as it would go (7,000) rpms while I'm at WOT. I too have forgot once or twice to turn it off manually at the track. :(
 
Forgot to add. I feel your pain on the gears. With the 331, the 75 shot, and slightly smaller drag radials, I crossed the traps at 6,200. I bent an axle after that and found out my rear was shot as well spider gears were wore down. So during the 31 spline upgrade, we put in 3.55 gears. I'm hoping that'll allow me to use my 125 shot on my d/r's. If it's still not enough, my slicks are quite a bit taller than the d/rs. Should help me there.
 
This weekend at the track I went from my 275 nittos to 26" ET Streets and it dropped me a few hundred RPMs with just a 1/4" difference or so in the tire (maybe ET streets "grew" a bit too). I was a bit skeptical spinning the stock longblock to 6200rpm (where I was letting off).

Wes
 
Black Vert - Don't you have a manual VB? Or is it computer controlled?

Mines computer controlled...

I was wonder on the whole 4.10 vs 373 no one brings this up... i was at 5500 which is peak power at the time of my old engine with 373 is about 102mph-107 not sure, but thats too low for the power i'm making now...

Im thinking of taking a stock 8.8 from a 99+ i believe stock they come with 3.27's
 
I have my Gen 1 Lightning set up on a OD switch that defaults to OFF, just the opposite of the way Ford does it, that way around town and at the track, OD is off. On the highway, I can enable it - and my tranny, the E4OD isn't as susceptible to that problem as an AODE/4R70W.

Don



Don, Did you do this via the EEC or a stand-alone mechanism? Your Truck probably has the OD-shift-control contents integrated into the EEC, making it easy to change.................. :shrug:

I recall some of the TCCoA guys (a few years back) wanted to to come up with a box that would change the defaults around, but I don't think it went anywhere. I always thought it was a nice idea.