AODE to T5: Starter Not Engaging Problem

redsn95gt · May 13, 2011

Did a AODE to T5 swap and a complete engine rebuild, so the car was stripped down for a year. Everythings back in and ready to go, when I turn the key to "run" I get fuel pump prime, go to "start" and nothing. Heres my checklist of things I've done:

1) Battery - cleaned terminals, pulled and had tested, fully charged, works good
2) Starter Relay - (in battery fuse box) replaced with brand new relay
3) Starter + Starter Solenoid - Pulled and had tested, works 100%
4) Positive Battery cable to starter - brand new, tight, no shorts, tested with DMM
5) Negative cable - fitted tight, solid 4 gauge going timing cover, then 4 gauge from motor mount to sway bar mount
6) White/Pink +12V wire to starter- NO VOLTAGE when key is in "start" position!
7) verified all fuses are working in both battery fuse area and under dash
8) I am using a AODE transmission harness, only using speed sensor
9) I am using a 94 manual ECU

which brings me to the following:
1) ignition switch on steering column? this seems unlikely
2) clutch safety switch?
3) some other bad wiring?

My biggest suspicion is the clutch wiring is wrong- Here is what I did:

I plugged the 2 disconnected connectors to the clutch switch, black in front, gray in rear towards firewall. I disconnected the clutch bypass from the AODE wiring by removing the 2 prong red wire loop connector and leaving it open. The last connector I have is a green + red wire that used to have a green loop on it, I removed the loop and I connected that to something coming off the brake switch? I'm not sure if that green loop should stay on or not, otherwise its empty.

I am really stumped on this one- killing me to get this started, the engines been sitting for weeks, i need to break it in!

Thanks!

Chythar · May 13, 2011

Been a while since I did the swap. I do know you have to push the clutch all the way to the floor before the car will turn over, or you get literally nothing when you turn the key - not even a click. The clutch pedal itself should have a sensor that detects when the clutch is depressed all the way. Don't remember the wiring color, tho.

redsn95gt · May 13, 2011

Thanks. Yea- no clicking on starter solenoid when turn the key to "start" but I heard the clicking work when I took it to have it tested so I know the solenoid is good. I may have to rent a OBDI scanner to get the code. I have those 2 connectors installed on the switch you mention, i can see the mechanics behind having the clutch pedal depress the switch to connect to 2 wires together. I suppose I can test continuity to make sure the switch is good with a DMM.

HISSIN50 · May 13, 2011

I agree with Matt.

If you put the car in neutral and apply the emergency brake, you could put the AODE jumper back in and see if it starts. That might tell you where the issue is. Or as you noted, do a continuity test with a DMM. If it passes, check in/out power with the clutch pedal depressed while cranking.

redsn95gt · May 13, 2011

Ok- used the AODE jumper to bypass the whole clutch saftey switch to eliminate that out of the equation. Then took a DMM, unplugged the connector that carries the +12V to the starter, checked with some alligator clips to see what happens when key is in "start" position, no voltage.

Took the DMM, hooked it to the white/pink wire (from AODE jumper) and touched black to ground, no voltage here either, in any key position.. hmmmm

Next I will just do a continuity check to see if the white/pink is making it out to the starter relay.

UPDATE- I disconnected the battery and I connected my DMM on continuity test between the white/pink inside the car which would normally go to the clutch saftey switch and ran the other end into the socket of the starter relay. When I turned the key to "start" i got continuity!

So i know my circuit is complete- next step was to put back on the battery, run one lead from the DMM to ground on the engine, then the next to the white/pink inside the car. Turn the key to start and I am getting +11.9V. So now I'm really scratching my head!! Circuit works, getting +12V to the relay, but not out the other side??

94GTCoupe · May 13, 2011

Since you're using the aode harness,would up need to leave the MLPS attached to the harness,in the "park" position?
(I'm just taking a guess,I used the t5 harness in my swap.)

redsn95gt · May 13, 2011

I thought about that, but then i didn't think it was tied into the engine to where you can't start it, but then again, I never tried to start my AODE in gear, im sure it won't let you which makes sense.

I no longer have my MLPS, the connector is just hanging. Could I jump pins 1 to 4? They are both labeled start circuit.

EDIT-

STARTER IS ENGAGING! I found this thread:

http://www.moddedmustangs.com/forum...ting-aode-harness-t5-transmission-w-pics.html

I was close- i was missing only 1 pair of wires to be tied together. From the transmission harness at the firewall, I cut and coupled WHITE/PINK + RED/BLUE and GRAY/RED + LT BLUE/YELLOW. That completed my +12V circuit!

Now the starter is moving, next will be getting the engine to actually turn over lol!

HISSIN50 · May 13, 2011

You were both right. The selector position and jumping the wiring can matter, depending upon how things are done.

AODE to T5: Starter Not Engaging Problem

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