Are blower cams worth it for my setup?

astronut1885

Founding Member
Jan 31, 2002
1,899
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Assonet, MA
Hey guys. I'm planning on installing my Ford Racing roots style blower in the near future, and I'm debating on whether or not to get blower cams. If I don't get the cams, then I will be doing all of the install and saving the money on shop time, then using Sniper tuning to set the car up. I plan on running 9 psi with methanol injection. Here's what my mod list (atleast the ones that matter/make power) will look like when I'm done:

stock bottom end
stock heads
FRPP roots style blower
Snow performance staged methanol injection
Lightning 90mm MAF
Roush cold air intake
MAC ceramic shorty headers
MAC catted prochamber
CDC side exhaust system (when the finally get the damn thing back in stock!)
Accufab 75mm throttle body
sniper tuning setup
MSD COP units
3.73s

So how much difference will I see with blower cams? If it's like 20, 30 HP, I might not do it. If it's more than that, then it might be worth the grand or so I'd have to put into it.
 
I say get the cams. Call VT or MPH and discuss your mods and how you want the cams to perform. Your always going to want more so you might as well do it now. :) They shouldn't be any harder on your stock block as long as your tuner is good and doesn't push you much over the 400-450 hp range or lean you out. Stock internals and blowers have an inherant risk to them anyways. Just do it!
BTW I was under the impression that methanol injection doesn't work well with roots or twin screws because it gets compressed and still heats up anyways. That's the info that I got from KB when I asked them about it. I mean if your positive it works then yeah do it but if it doesn't work then save yourself some $
-Steve
 
I want to use Sniper tuning because it seems to have the best user friendly array of adjustments, I don't need to pay the extra for a handheld because I already have a laptop at my disposal, and a fellow stanger who did the same setup more or less that I am doing used it with great results. As far as methanol injection, they sell a kit for 03-04 Cobras, so I'm pretty sure it works. Maybe not as well as it would on a centri blower, but Snow performance makes kits specifically for roots style blowers.

As far as the cams go, is this something I could install on my own? Keep in mind I built the whole top end on my 302 motor with hand tools, so I'm pretty able with mechanic work. I just don't know what doing cams on a mod motor entails, or if it's something best left to a shop, especially if I have to do springs and all that business. I was told that AFM could do cams that allow you to keep the stock springs, and in the worst case, I could always install the blower, tune it, and then run the car with that power until I save enough for cams to be installed.
 
I want to use Sniper tuning because it seems to have the best user friendly array of adjustments, I don't need to pay the extra for a handheld because I already have a laptop at my disposal, and a fellow stanger who did the same setup more or less that I am doing used it with great results. As far as methanol injection, they sell a kit for 03-04 Cobras, so I'm pretty sure it works. Maybe not as well as it would on a centri blower, but Snow performance makes kits specifically for roots style blowers.

As far as the cams go, is this something I could install on my own? Keep in mind I built the whole top end on my 302 motor with hand tools, so I'm pretty able with mechanic work. I just don't know what doing cams on a mod motor entails, or if it's something best left to a shop, especially if I have to do springs and all that business. I was told that AFM could do cams that allow you to keep the stock springs, and in the worst case, I could always install the blower, tune it, and then run the car with that power until I save enough for cams to be installed.


hmm tuning the car yourself eh? I dont know about that...I would research so you dont blow your motor. My advice is to NEVER let timing go above 16*s if you want it safe. My car is only @ 15*s and my IAT temps are probably pretty low...but I need to check when I get a gauge.
 
Well, from what I've researched, it does lean toward the conservative side, and you can then go in and adjust the timing and fuel tables more directly after the base tune is made. I'm pretty adept with tuning the older cars, and I know what detonation sounds like. Even if I don't wring every HP out of it, if I can very safely make it run well, I'll be happy. If nothing else, I can always go to a dyno and have them fine tune it on my laptop. I plan on getting a wideband 02 setup and a dattalogger kit from them as well. With all of that, I should be able to tune the car pretty accurately.
 
A set of cams for a forced induction motor should have little to no overlap when compared to cams made for NA motors. This change in the overlap, along with the other changes in duration and lift and such is where you see the benefit with a forced induction motor. I should net you enough HP to be worth doing. I would think that if you have the shop manual for the car and you take your time that you should be able to install the cams yourself without messing anything up. Good luck !
 
It looks like it. I'd like to find blower cams that don't require a valve spring change. I might look into the Anderson Ford Motorsports ones that my local shop had suggested that are considered "small" and will allow for the stock springs to stay in the car.
 
You might want to look into a set of custom grind cams. I know for the pushrod motors it doesn't cost much more and can actually be cheaper then some of the more expensive big name brands.
 
Here's information regarding VT's Stage 2 Blower cams.. Pulled it from their website..

These cams gained 87hp and 49ft/lb over stock PI cams on UNPORTED cylinder heads. Suitable for daily driven cars. Noticable idle. Will support up to 600rwhp. VALVESPRING UPGRADE REQUIRED! .530/.570 lift, 220/230 .050" duration, 112 LSA +4*


Riley