Are my dyno numbers good?

va01gtstang

New Member
Apr 28, 2005
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I recently just got my car back froma shop and it was dynoed at: 284rwhp and 302rwt. Here are my mods:Fully built bottom end (Diamond Racing Pistons, Manley H-beam Rods, new crank, bearings, ARP studs and bolt and machined block) Stage 1 Port & Polished heads, Comp XE270 cams and Comp Valve Springs, MAC long-tubes, ProChamber, MAC Cat-back, MAC Straight-Shot Intake, SPEC Stage 1 Clutch, and SCT 4-bank Chip.
I was just wondering if these dyno numbers are accurate or if they are below noraml. Any advice would help, thanks.
 
well it sees your numbers are right on par with mine. some guys are getting a little more hp out of the same combos, but the tunes vary and so do dynos.

i still need to add l/t, which i hope will put me at 290rwhp at least. you already have them. howevei i have the plenum and t/b that you dont.

you add that you should pick up about 8 more rwhp. that will put you at 292 rwhp. thats just about right my friend :nice:
 
No, thats definatly LOW. I made 274 W/O my electric waterpump (bout 280 with it) and W/O head work, stock shortblock, and VT stg 1 cams. Something is wrong. Tim said that things like that have happened when other people have built engines, and he had to go through them to see what was wrong.
 
not everyone is getting a built engine to gain power. some just want stronger internals to add a blower later. what would his built engine have to do with his power?

i figure if anything the built block might make less power then a stock block because of lowered compression. :shrug: anyone know more about this.

hotmustang your car is higher in hp then mine as well. i have a stock block. so yours is either a strong car or ours is weak. hes not the only one though so id assume that this is normal power range and notthing is wrong.

personally i dont think head work adds too much power, maybe 15 rwhp. that would put you at about 195rwhp as well, slightly better then us. :shrug:
 
Hmm? I dont have any headwork. :shrug:
that one guy on here had stg 1 cams, most boltons, and MPH heads....he made 310RWHP. But yes your right about the compression....if its lower than stock then you wont make alot N/A. I assumed that he was going N/A with high compression...but maybe not since he didnt specify. Aftermarket shortblocks with the same compression have made 30RWHP more due to them having better ring sealing and having tighter tolerences than OEM.

I just think thats low, but his head work (stg 1 P&P) wont do much of anything, so if his CR is like 8.5 then its right on.....but if its stock or higher then his #s are low. JMO though.
 
really? who makes those short blocks, cause thats who i want to make mine.

although if leaving stock compressing but built internals, would that hold up to 12-14 psi of boost? or would the compression be to high?

sorry went a bit o/t
 
A mag tested a DSS SB vs a stock SB with everything the same....DSS made 30RWHP more. IMO you should go with no more than 9.0-1 CR. I know that 8.5 can take around 18-20 on pump gas with decent timing. With 9 you should EASILY be able to get away with 16.

But again I would go with modularpowerhouses shortblock.
 
yea i was planning on vt short block, but will consider mph as well.

i want to drop the compression a tiny bit, but if i can make a little hp at the same time from the block somehow, that would be nice.