i got my engine torn down to the shortblock yesterday.
i had a small HG leak and intake leak on cyl5 and cyl2 had a bent pushrod....
new lifters (are old and need replaced anyways) and pushrods are on the list
i got a deal on an F-cam and it'll be on its way.
i'm fabricating a custom upper box plenum of sheet alum to mate up to my typhoon lower intake, i think it will feed the engine well seeing how my intake charge is pressurized
but i need to do something with HEADS.
i pulled my thumpers off and they are good. but the valve springs are WEAK, so weak that you can turn the springs with ease and so weak you could press them down by hand and remove the locks and take the valvespring off the head.
i am guessing my 9 psi and hard driving wore the springs out and i bet thats what caused the pushrod to bend.
i need to do some head upgrading while i am down there.
i really like the thumpers, you stick your finger in the ports and you can tell its a good flowing head and excellent port work.
i'm torn on what to do. i dont really want to spend the cash on nice aluminum heads, i'd rather save that for a big project in the future or something. plus im a firm believer you dont need badass alum heads to make power.
so i have narrowed it down to two options
my friend is wanting to build a engine for his pickup. he found a complete explorer motor at the junkyard for 500. me and him are talking about both going half in paying 250 and he gets the shortblock for his project and i get the P heads and upper/lower intake.
i could get this heads worked over with new springs and some porting. but i feel after all thats said and done i would be spending more cash for not much of a gain, not to mention i would want to get the p headers for plug removal etc etc.
OR have bigger valves (1.9/1.6) put into my thumpers along with a nice stiff spring to hanlde my application. my friend from work does his own head work and has his own valve machines and seat cutters etc etc... he can do it all. he quoted me a good price of around 3-400 buck for bigger valves and springs, PARTS AND LABOR, pretty nice deal i think.
i bought my thumpers used for 400 had them checked before and new seals put in before i ran them. they are off now and if i spend say 400 bucks i would have 840 dollars in the heads.
either way i sm still going in on the explorer motor because i can make my money back and soem profit selling just pull off P heads and intake.
i'm leaning towards the thumper setup with bigger valves and springs.
i'm not looking to make the MOST power possible. i want something fun to drive, my car was pretty fast before it broke down. with cheap parts lol i had maybe 1500 in the engine. i want to do something nobody else does. people buy the good alum heads all day, i want to be different and run a good number with STOCK HEADS.
car trapped 115 before with b-cam and stock thumpers with weak springs.
i am getting an F-cam thats more suited for a blower, fabbing up my own upper plenum, and if i get the thumpers done up, PLUS tuning via tweecer i hope to have to car trap 120+ at the track and run mid-low 11s. i think it can be done.
give me some opinions
i had a small HG leak and intake leak on cyl5 and cyl2 had a bent pushrod....
new lifters (are old and need replaced anyways) and pushrods are on the list
i got a deal on an F-cam and it'll be on its way.
i'm fabricating a custom upper box plenum of sheet alum to mate up to my typhoon lower intake, i think it will feed the engine well seeing how my intake charge is pressurized
but i need to do something with HEADS.
i pulled my thumpers off and they are good. but the valve springs are WEAK, so weak that you can turn the springs with ease and so weak you could press them down by hand and remove the locks and take the valvespring off the head.
i am guessing my 9 psi and hard driving wore the springs out and i bet thats what caused the pushrod to bend.
i need to do some head upgrading while i am down there.
i really like the thumpers, you stick your finger in the ports and you can tell its a good flowing head and excellent port work.
i'm torn on what to do. i dont really want to spend the cash on nice aluminum heads, i'd rather save that for a big project in the future or something. plus im a firm believer you dont need badass alum heads to make power.
so i have narrowed it down to two options
my friend is wanting to build a engine for his pickup. he found a complete explorer motor at the junkyard for 500. me and him are talking about both going half in paying 250 and he gets the shortblock for his project and i get the P heads and upper/lower intake.
i could get this heads worked over with new springs and some porting. but i feel after all thats said and done i would be spending more cash for not much of a gain, not to mention i would want to get the p headers for plug removal etc etc.
OR have bigger valves (1.9/1.6) put into my thumpers along with a nice stiff spring to hanlde my application. my friend from work does his own head work and has his own valve machines and seat cutters etc etc... he can do it all. he quoted me a good price of around 3-400 buck for bigger valves and springs, PARTS AND LABOR, pretty nice deal i think.
i bought my thumpers used for 400 had them checked before and new seals put in before i ran them. they are off now and if i spend say 400 bucks i would have 840 dollars in the heads.
either way i sm still going in on the explorer motor because i can make my money back and soem profit selling just pull off P heads and intake.
i'm leaning towards the thumper setup with bigger valves and springs.
i'm not looking to make the MOST power possible. i want something fun to drive, my car was pretty fast before it broke down. with cheap parts lol i had maybe 1500 in the engine. i want to do something nobody else does. people buy the good alum heads all day, i want to be different and run a good number with STOCK HEADS.
car trapped 115 before with b-cam and stock thumpers with weak springs.
i am getting an F-cam thats more suited for a blower, fabbing up my own upper plenum, and if i get the thumpers done up, PLUS tuning via tweecer i hope to have to car trap 120+ at the track and run mid-low 11s. i think it can be done.
give me some opinions