The old Pink truck in the corner could use a Big Block and a coat of that Blue paint as well
The old Pink truck in the corner could use a Big Block and a coat of that Blue paint as well
It would be good to have a spray bottle of water to use today when you cut the runs out. When you fill it with water, put in about 10 drops of dawn in with the water. Not too much soap though.
The soap helps to lubricate the sand paper and mcguire's stones when you are sanding, it keeps the paper from catching on the relatively soft clear which could cause the clear to tear. Don't put anymore than that in it though, the fluid will become a barrier to the sandpaper and basically cause the paper to "float" across what you are sanding.
If you don't have a spray bottle, you can use a bucket with water and a small squirt of soap. Just dip the stones and sand paper in it very regularly while sanding, either of these will rinse off the residue you sand off. A build up of residue (meaning the sanded off clear coat) can build up and either plog your sandpaper, or build into little clear nuggets that can scratch your surface deeper than your sandpaper making it more difficult to buff out those deeper scratches.
I'll have my phone in the garage with me today while I finish rolling out the POR on doby's interior and undercarriage. If you want to talk to me about what you'll be doing, PM me and I'll give you my phone number and help talk you through it.
It's really not tough to cut out runs, but you will need to be PATIENT while doing it. No going fast, or knocking it out real quick. No rushing allowed here, you will regret wanting to just finish it off real fast. If you are patient though, they'll be gone and your stunning paint job will look just fantastic. No one will ever know you had any runs at all.
I'll give specifics for your runs whenever you are ready to get after it. It would be very helpful for you to send pictures of the first couple you intend to tackle. There are specific things to do first, second, etc.... After you have a couple down, you won't need too much help from me. Monkey see, monkey do thing.
Man, you're up early.
Ok, since we're all up early now, I was thinking.....
And you can tell me if you want to do this as a sidebar.
Now that you're done,..(and from what we can see, it looks great), is there any part of that metallic paint job that's striped, or somehow is flawed w/ regard to the pattern?
The reason I'm asking, is my typical second guessing at the decision to go solid color acrylic enamel, over a 2 stage low VOC metallic.
There's a color on the Summit chip chart that I love, but pass it by because I tell myself that it is beyond my capabilities. Very high metallic orange, almost like sun fire.
I've painted a few things w/ that low VOC stuff they sell, the last was the green/gold wheels that are now bare. that was a SS paint. They were metallic, and I think they turned out beautifully, and I did nothing except point the gun at them and pull the trigger.
Ok, since we're all up early now, I was thinking.....
And you can tell me if you want to do this as a sidebar.
Now that you're done,..(and from what we can see, it looks great), is there any part of that metallic paint job that's striped, or somehow is flawed w/ regard to the pattern?
The reason I'm asking, is my typical second guessing at the decision to go solid color acrylic enamel, over a 2 stage low VOC metallic.
There's a color on the Summit chip chart that I love, but pass it by because I tell myself that it is beyond my capabilities. Very high metallic orange, almost like sun fire.
I've painted a few things w/ that low VOC stuff they sell, the last was the green/gold wheels that are now bare. that was a SS paint. They were metallic, and I think they turned out beautifully, and I did nothing except point the gun at them and pull the trigger.
Well thanks for that. I had my own clear issues when I painted the yellow Cobra rear bumper cover two summers ago. ( ran the hell out of that,..couldn't even call it a sag)There is not one single spot on this car with uneven metallic pattern. I amazed myself. The guy that sold me the paint(and I've heard this before) told me to keep the pressure on my gun at the high end of the range to completely atomize the paint, and maintain enough distance from the work to allow for good pattern. Overlap passes 50%... And be sure the paint is mixed well. I mixed the full amount i planned to spray, so I'd have an even batch. I poured it back and forth a dozen times and stirred the heck out of it before i loaded my cup evertime. Compared to the old acrylic, this urethane is a breeze, man. Don't be afraid of it. Just be really ginger with the clear. Haha.
Well thanks for that. I had my own clear issues when I painted the yellow Cobra rear bumper cover two summers ago. ( ran the hell out of that,..couldn't even call it a sag)
The clear coat is the stalling point for me. I'm if the mindset that I don't want to have to go through that many steps. ( that's the lazy ass talking)
The paint I'm talking about might only come in a 2stage, I'll have to ck. But if it comes in one can like the wheel paint,.....maybe I change color?
Ok, well here's what I do in between repliesI don't know..
What i DO know.. Is if i could have a do over on my clear, i know i could do it without running it. I've seen dry crappy looking clear coats and i was trying to avoid that by really laying it down. That was my mistake. The paint guy even warned me. These high solids clears are thick, and if you go lightly with them, they'll turn out beautiful. The paint guy even told me, two coats. No more, it'll be more than enough. He was right.
Definitely get a two stage paint, Mike. This new stuff beats hell out of the crap from 15 years ago.
Ok, well here's what I do in between replies
This is the paint. A low VOC single stage acrylic urethane. Problem is, the footnote.
* due to the size of the very large metallic particles in this paint, a clear coat is required.
WTF?
I love this color. It doesn't come in a 2stage. I'd have to clear it. It's cheap enough because of the SS formulation 100 bucks, and most importantly it's a low VOC paint, so my whole house won't smell like a paint booth for days after I paint the car. What technique is required when you have to spray a clear coat over a SS paint? Is it just another coat applied after a 20 minute flash?
It's my bio clock. I get up for work at 5:30 every day. Kinda screws me on the weekends because my eyes pop open by 6:00, BING!
Replied to me at 3:30am-David at 7am.id still be sleepin' lolStroked windsor. All in time.
Man I don't think you sleep-
Replied to me at 3:30am-David at 7am.id still be sleepin' lol
Hey mike, hope you don't mind if I throw in a couple thoughts for you.Ok, well here's what I do in between replies
This is the paint. A low VOC single stage acrylic urethane. Problem is, the footnote.
* due to the size of the very large metallic particles in this paint, a clear coat is required.
WTF?
I love this color. It doesn't come in a 2stage. I'd have to clear it. It's cheap enough because of the SS formulation 100 bucks, and most importantly it's a low VOC paint, so my whole house won't smell like a paint booth for days after I paint the car. What technique is required when you have to spray a clear coat over a SS paint? Is it just another coat applied after a 20 minute flash?
Bass boat huh?......Hey mike, hope you don't mind if I throw in a couple thoughts for you.
That's a pretty orange, the reason why they want you to spray a clear coat over it is what they said, the flake is very large. You will feel it with your fingers. If you try to cut and buff it as a single stage you will be cutting into the flake and give it a funky look.
It's kind of like the bass boat metal flake from the seventies.
With their note there, I would expect the clear coat to come out with a fairly large orange peel. Meaning you will probably want to color sand the entire panel afterwards to make it sort of flat. In a situation like this, I would recommend three coats of clear since you already know you will have to be removing a portion of it just to get a smoother paint job.
Check on the hardeners and reducers you get with your paint, try to get temperature specific additives for when you think you will spray it. That'll help some with the runs.
Technique wise for a clear coat over a single stage? With ss you need to let it set just a little longer than you would for a base coat. It really depends on your temperature and humidity. If you put the clear coat on it too soon you could end up with solvent pop as a worse case scenario, or just blushing that rubs out fairly easy.
Tiger stripping, as well as mottling of the color is caused by two things, 1. gun control (overlap consistency) 2. coverage (depending on the transparency of the color, it may just need more coats).
Also doing a drop/fog coat will help with mottling and somewhat stripping. Turn the pressure down on your gun just slightly and increase the distance you spray by about four inches for one or two last light coats. SS will be more sensitive to this and I've found doing more of a dusting over the top of the panel to be more effective for me. Just keep overlap consistent, you'll know if your overlap wasn't enough because that gives the stripping effect. I always overlap by at least 50%, more like 65%.
Remember, you have the first coat or two to learn what you need to keep doing, or change, for the final covering coats you apply.
Hope this helps.
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