At a loss about coolant issues.

[Phatt_daddy]

Ok so when I put in my engine I didn't install a thermostat and the car would run hot even with the straight fan. Two days ago I installed a 180 stat filled the system with a 50/50 mix and it is still boiling out the fluid. I need some serious help on figuring this out seeing as how I just had my Windstar's tranny crap out on me and left me with only my stang for me and my wife to get around in.

Thanks
Nate.

 

[darthcual]

Did you burp the radiator? This commonly causes boil over. Also the radiator cap is commonly the culprit if it is not relieving pressure like it is suppose to. Hope that helps.

 

[Phatt_daddy]

Today made the third time since I installed the stat that I have had to put water in it due to it boiling out. Every time I had the engine running but I couldn't afford the gas to let it get up to normal opperating temp so it would open. BTW I am still getting around 5 mi to the gal, is my reasoning behind the opperating temp. Please help me figure this out.

Nate

 

[ECU5.0]

there is definetly a problem if you are getting 5 mpg and its not a strictly drag car. pull the codes man and see whats going on with the engine. if you dont know how or dont have the tools, grab a paper clip and do a search for JRichker. he will help you out, that guy is like an automated mustang encyclopedia of knowledge

edit: are you sure its boiling out? have you checked your oil to see if its a blown head gaskets or intake gasket and all the coolant you are loosing is actually in your oil pan?

 

[Phatt_daddy]

I have kept a check on the oil and know that there is no water in the oil. As for the 5mpg, it is all b/c the oxy sensors, egr, and the suck have the puter running real rich. I have the mpg figued out but I am still at a loss on the coolant.

THanks,
Nate

 

[rd]

Check the basics. Make sure the thermostat is installed in the right direction. Make sure the radiator is clean, and that the lower hose is not collapsing, ie, the internal spring is still there. I would not expect it to run cool with no t-stat at all.

See that the water pump is turning the right direction and the fan clutch, if you have one, is working ok. Is the fan shroud in place.

Make sure the ac condenser is clean.

Make sure you have all of the air out. Ironicly, I changed head gaskets on my Windstar, could not get it to cool, and tore it down again. Same problem second time, until a Ford tech told me the rad was lower than the engine and you had to fill from the heater hose or vacuum fill it.

If possible, do a compression test to see if you have a leaking head gasket.

It could be that the head gaskets are installed on the wrong side. I take pictures at that point sometimes so I can check it.

My overbored engines have always run slightly hotter, 5 or 10 deg than the same engine at stock bore.

Strangely, my 82 runs cool with just a new 2 core stock replacement radiator.

Sometimes, a new, clean radiator will make a big diff.

Been my experience, if it heats quickly at idle, it is a head gasket or low water, but if it heats up normally, but get too warm, it is radiator related.

 

[Phatt_daddy]

THanks for the replies so far. How do I "burp" the system? Seeing as hoe the car didn't have a t-stat in it when I traded for it, How is it supposed to go? (I have ine with the spring in the engine, not the water neck) The car is a factory no air car so there is no condenser. Which way does the water pump need to be turning? When I put the engine together, I knew that it wasn't going to be a street racer so I opted for the budget gasket kit from Jegs.(Complete set of Mr.Gaskets cost me about $55.00) The head gaskets are a cheaper set, but the tech said that they were still a good set. Sorry for the questions but this thing is puzzeling the hell outta me.

Thanks,
Nate

 

[QDRHRSE]

The fact that the engine is .40 over could be contributing to the problem. Thinner cylinder walls dissipate less heat. If the timing was off too much in either direction the car could get hot and a vacuum leak could make it run hot. You need to fix all of the fuel related problems before you can really find the problem. Also, I believe that 5.0 has a reverse rotation cooling system. The 84 block that you are using is a non roller block so if you are using all 5.0 bracketry and water pump this may or may not cause a problem.

 

[Phatt_daddy]

Well I have found where my coolant is leaking out at, the small hose going from the water pump to the water neck. Now I have another problem, what makes an engine not want to start when it gets hot?
I have already replaced the ignition module, and the coil, with new plugs ( that might already be gas fouled). So what could the culprit be now? I mean if I can solve the coolant issue where should I start looking for the starting problem?

Thanks again,
Nate

 

[Euphoric306]

thats the bypass hose, to let you know the term for it

starter could be fouling out because of heat soak... try a new starter or rebuilt unit and see if it doesnt do the trick

 

[Phatt_daddy]

Well it aint the starter though. I have a new one on it. When it gets hot the car will continue to turn over but instead of starting it floods. I usually have to let it set for about two to three hours before it will even think of starting. Sometimes it takes even longer.

Nate

 

[Mysterio]

My radiator cap went bad. Squeeze the upper radiator hose. I could hear air squeezing out of the cap when I did that. Knew right away I needed a new one.