I need some help. Just put my car back together after a long winter. Put new intake on it. Adjusted rockers and fired it up. Idle was shaky since the battery had been pulled, no memory in the PCm. Idle smoothed out but its higher, probably because of the new TB. Anyways I drove it and it feels like it's misfiring. And it's blowing alot of smoke out the left tail pipe, but not the right. I checked my plugs and wires. I had a cracked plug and a wire boot that was burnt threw. I fixed both of then and just took it out again. Still feels like its missing and blowin smoke on the left. It smokes litly crusing and when u jump on it blows good. I checked the plugs again, ran a compression test. I have between 180-195 in all the holes. I don't know what to do next. Maybe a leak down. I might have a leaky head gasket. Car hasn't been running much so i can't keep track if its consuming coolant. I assumed it burped since I drain and put the intake on and refilled so I topped it off. Any suggestion. The injectors are fairly new. 24lbs that i bought used, ran them last year and they were good. Any help would be good.
ATTN! Help runs rough!
- Thread starter 1of1971GTs
- Start date
With 185 PSI or better, don't was time chasing leaky or blown head gaskets - you definitely don't have any with those numbers.
Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.
Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure
Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.
See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.
Just a suggestion. Try disconnecting the vac line going to the egr. I had a problem a while back where my car was shooting out black smoke and running rough and it ended up being the egr or the control valve was messed up allowing vac at the wrong times. Just give it a try the second i disconnected thevac line running to teh egr my car ran PERFECT..
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