Auto shifter options and manual valve bodies....

So i went for a ride in a dodge dart that has a full manual reverse valve body........Needless to say..... I loved it, and love how you can control the shift points and rpms.

Im lookin at getting a turbo action cheetah valve body in full manual reverse pattern and installing it in my C6. Right now i have the stock AOD shifter linkage/cable modded to work with the C6 and im using the stock shifter still.

I want to get the B&M hammer shifter, but i dont know which one to use, the one made for the mustang console but works with the AOD linkage i have now (kinda reliable), or the one thats not made for the mustang console but has the correct cable to work on the C6.

Need some help here...... I only drive this car on the weekends
 
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I have a 71 dart with full manaul turbo action valvebody. If you don't mind shifting like a stick, there great. ( I love it ). Look into lowband apply feature not sure if this madders on a C6,but is needed on the torqueflite727. I run a B&M Quick Silver shifter on it, It is full racket but you pull up and back to go from park to drive in one pull.

Also have a 89 mustang with lentech AOD, running B&M hammer shifter. I love it too, the only thing i dont like about it is to get from park to drive you have to pull three times. Now a C6 with manual valvebody will be six pulls to get to first. That can become a pain in the butt.:nice:
 
Is it ok to use a full manual valve body for street driving? Im seeing lots of the manufacturers dont reccommend it. Is there a difference in forward and reverse pattern besided the shifting? and lastly, will these "positive shifts" and full manual shifting at all times shorten my tranny life?

The tranny has just been completely rebuilt and has about 1,000 miles or less on it right now.

I have the option of the TCI auto/manual forward pattern VB or the turbo action full manual reverse pattern VB.
 
Driving around town is not a problem on the trans but the constent shifting up and down can be a pain. The valve body will help the life span of the tranny, because of the greater line pressure there will be less slippage on the clutches.

The shift pattern is what it says (forward PRN4321) or (reverse PRN1234)


Since you are only driving on the weekends you would love it. If you take it to the track once in awhile i'd go with the reverse shift it feels better while racing.

Never worked with a tci valve,but turbo action is the biggest name out there when it comes to valve bodies. Check Dynamic they may make a good valve body for the C6, and not shure if performance automatics makes one for the C6. They specailize in C4's
 
Im trying to understand how the TCI works......manual/auto



So you can downshift and upshift at will or place it in Drive for full auto....

OK, so when your going from 1-2-D and holding 3rd (D), whats keeping it in 3rd if you also have full auto in D? The kickdown is still on so would'nt it kickdown if you keep it floored while in D even though you manually shifted it from 1-2-D?

I know i can be confusing but thx for the help :)
 
If you purchase a manual/auto valve body it mean alittle of both world.

While in first it will only stay in first,and will not move from first until you make it.

While in second it will stay in second and not move onto third till you make it, but here is the difference. It will down-shift back to first when you stop at a light, unlike a full manual it would stay in second till you put in first your self.

Finally third or drive it will simply shift as normal. It will start in first going threw all gears,and will also down shift threw all gears.

P----> Park
R----> Reverse
N----> neutral
D----> shift normal threw all gears
2----> will not up shift to third but will down shift to first
1----> first and only first, the only true manual part of the valvebody

If you only drive on the weekend and race alittle, full manual is the way to go.

If you do alittle more driving than that and it's in alot of stop and go traffic, have that normal drive function would be nice.

But the manual/auto only controls up shifts. for exsample: if you have full manual you can go from first to second at any rpm, then back to first at any rpm even 5000rpm if you wanted to( but wouldn't recomend )

The manual/auto will up shift to second at any rpm but when you down shift back to first,and the car speed is to high the kick down cable will stop the tranny from going into first till the car slow down enough.

Hope that help you understand more, keep the questions coming if not.
 
71swing said:
If you purchase a manual/auto valve body it mean alittle of both world.

While in first it will only stay in first,and will not move from first until you make it.

While in second it will stay in second and not move onto third till you make it, but here is the difference. It will down-shift back to first when you stop at a light, unlike a full manual it would stay in second till you put in first your self.

Finally third or drive it will simply shift as normal. It will start in first going threw all gears,and will also down shift threw all gears.

P----> Park
R----> Reverse
N----> neutral
D----> shift normal threw all gears
2----> will not up shift to third but will down shift to first
1----> first and only first, the only true manual part of the valvebody

If you only drive on the weekend and race alittle, full manual is the way to go.

If you do alittle more driving than that and it's in alot of stop and go traffic, have that normal drive function would be nice.

But the manual/auto only controls up shifts. for exsample: if you have full manual you can go from first to second at any rpm, then back to first at any rpm even 5000rpm if you wanted to( but wouldn't recomend )

The manual/auto will up shift to second at any rpm but when you down shift back to first,and the car speed is to high the kick down cable will stop the tranny from going into first till the car slow down enough.

Hope that help you understand more, keep the questions coming if not.

If i still have it floored, and manually shifting from 1-2-D would it be able to kickdown at all while im shifting (what i dont want) or would it just make the shifts as i make them? I cant get to my intermediate solenoid to mod it, so it looks like im going the manual/auto route.

BTW, will it shift pretty hard, like chirp tires hard going 1-2 :)
 
Full manual will shift when ever you move the shifter lever.

manual/auto will still have a nice hard shift from 1 to 2. Chirping tires shouldn't be a problem, but with the manual/auto valvebodies the 2nd to 3rd is is alittle softer than the 1st to 2nd shift, you may not get a chirp out of 3rd gear. Unless your making serious power.

The only way to have full control is a full manual valvebody.

people take the sides they like, some like automatics and some like 5speed manuals. With a full manual valvebody you get both. Complete control over your shifts up and down,but will never ever miss that 2nd to 3rd shift that gets every racer time to time.
 
just finished the install of the auto/manual, i used the AOD shifter for the road test.

It shifts hard but it doesn't buck you in your seat hard, but it shifts pretty quick.

It works like its supposted to in D, goes through all the gears like regular. but when i go all the way down to 1 it only goes to 2 it seems.

If i start off from a stop in 1, then when it reaches about 3000 rpms it shifts to 2nd gear without me doing anything.

2 lets it go into 3rd.

Im confused now lol, maybe its because the shifter gates dont match the C6. Hopefully the B&M hammer shifter will be closer, but overall, its a nice VB.

so either the shifter or linkage needs adjusting for the gates to work with the C6 or i did something wrong here, but i dont think anything went wrong on the install, everything works, it shifts in the VB and the kickdown works too.

The B&M hammer shifter is going in tomarrow....