Auto to manual coversion ???s

#21
Here's my parts list with prices

I personally made the decision to go all new parts with a few exceptions for non-wear items like bell housing, clutch lever and engine block plate. I did this not because I'm lazy, but because I didn't want to deal with problems and headaches of used or poorly rebuilt equipment. You can also spend a lot of time fabricating a part yourself that costs $120 and avoid a lot of frustration.
Here's the complete list of required parts with prices. Note, I also started with a manual 3 speed transmission, so no pedal costs involved and I decided to go hydraulic clutch to avoid interferance problems with headers.

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 222pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=295 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 139pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 6765" width=185><COL style="WIDTH: 83pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 4022" width=110><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; WIDTH: 139pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=185 height=17>T5 Transmission</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; WIDTH: 83pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=110 x:num="1140">$ 1,140.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Bellhousing</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="40">$ 40.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Blocking plate</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="20">$ 20.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Shift fork</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="15">$ 15.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Shift fork ball stud</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="15">$ 15.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Flywheel</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="90">$ 90.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Clutch/press plate</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="160">$ 160.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Thrust bearing</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="10">$ 10.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Trans/BH hardware kit</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="12">$ 12.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Trans cross member</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="129">$ 129.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Trans mount</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="36">$ 36.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Slip yoke</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="95">$ 95.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Fork Dust boot</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="34">$ 34.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Shift handle</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="139">$ 139.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Shift knob</TD><TD class=xl25 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="39">$ 39.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.5pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 13.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=18>Hydraulic Clutch system</TD><TD class=xl26 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: windowtext 2pt double; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="385">$ 385.00 </TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 13.5pt" height=18><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; HEIGHT: 13.5pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=18></TD><TD class=xl24 style="BORDER-RIGHT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-TOP: #e0dfe3; BORDER-LEFT: #e0dfe3; BORDER-BOTTOM: #e0dfe3; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" x:num="2359" x:fmla="=SUM(B1:B16)">$ 2,359.00 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
 
#24
I am building a 67 T/A coupe replica, and want the car era specific. Believe me, I lost a ton of sleep over the subject, expecially since the 351C was built up and ran low 11s at sea altitude. Oh well, now all I gotta find is a Top Loader....
 
#25
slepe67 said:
I am building a 67 T/A coupe replica, and want the car era specific. Believe me, I lost a ton of sleep over the subject, expecially since the 351C was built up and ran low 11s at sea altitude. Oh well, now all I gotta find is a Top Loader....
Click to expand...

Yeah, me too, but I deviated from my foaming-at-the-mouth "period correct" attitude in favor of some of my own styling and newer/better parts that werent around back then(like Edelbrock heads). Are you trying to stay period correct with just the appearance or the parts too?

As far as a transmission goes, the Borg Warner T10 isnt bad, but the Toploader has appreciably larger gears and a reputation for being tough. Here is a pic of mine. You'll see that I have a short-shaft "big block" tailhousing and Hurst setup, but it fits fine in the car with a smallblock.

View attachment 500430
 
#26
My plans are to have a 289 (347 stroker maybe???), Victor Jr Intake, Barry Grant carb, Edelbrock heads, etc. I plan on maybe racing the car if possible, but no, I dont wanna go psycho on making it period correct, I plan to have some fun with this thing.
 
#27
WHOA there you dont want just any old t-5, if you are running any kind of serious power you want the Tremec 3550 or the Tremec TKO. The t-5 and the t-5z more then likely are going to come apart. If you do use one and have some serious horsepower then get a scattershield.
 
#29
You'll probably want a wide ratio Toploader if this is going to be a street car. The close ratios have a really tall 2.32 first gear while the wides have something like 2.78. Also make sure you get one with a smallblock input shaft or you'll have to nearly tear the whole thing apart to change it.
 
#30
thx, my dumb arse probably never would have thoguth of that till AFTER I bought it...thanks, writing it down now...I dont plan on driving it daily, and do plan on SOMETIMES going to the track for a few hot laps. Think the wide ratio is still what I want? Thanks for the info...
 
#31
I dont have experience with a close ratio, but I think it depends on how much you think you'll drive it on the street in either stop and go traffic or how many stop lights it'll see. I'm pretty sure he only difference between a close and wide ratio is first gear. The close has a taller first so 2, 3, and 4 are closer together. Also, if you decide you dont like one or the other, you need a new input shaft, cluster set, and complete teardown to change it. You also need to have a slightly more agressive rear gear to make up for the tall first(3.00s just wont cut it). IMO, the wide ratio is the most versatile for anything but a dedicated high-rpm track or drag car. If you dont have a high-revving, narrow powerband engine, then you can make more use of what you have with the wide.
 
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