Due to all the PM's I'm getting about this, I decided to finally write this up. I do not have pix yet. Maybe if one of you auto guys has me do their swap I'll take time with taking pix
I did my swap and it was VERY easy. (Keep in mind I have a lot of automotive background) However, If you can turn a wrench, have common sense, and A nice COMPLETE set of tools, this shouldn't be too hard for you. And in the end, you will be far more confident working on your car. Total swap cost me $1450 with a used tranny and driveshaft. Price can range from $1,200 to $3,000 depending on what you buy and who you get it from. The most important thing is to make sure you have everything you need, and that it is the right part, before you start the project. You can sell your 4r70w for 300-700 bucks on ebay.
You will need:
Haynes manual!!!!
Beer and bandaids
-Flywheel HEY! READ THIS!!!!!! 4.6L engines may have 6 or 8 bolts to attach to the crankshaft. Check the engine code before ordering. Romeo built engines have 6 bolts and Windsor built engines have 8 bolts. All Cobra engines have 8 bolts. The 8th character in the VIN is (X) for Windsor engine plant or (W) for Romeo engine plant. LINK
-Clutch LINK
-longer bolts for the 5spd flywheel LINK
-5spd transmission wiring harness (dealer they will tell you it is $400 though. It's really only $70. Get it from a speed shop that can order ford parts. If you can't find one, Call Don at LINK)
-clutch/brake pedal set. LINK
-Clutch cable LINK
-Go ahead and get an aftermarket clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster. They're cheap, and make clutch adjustment an easy one person job. Brenspeed sells the cable, firewall adjuster, and quadrant in a kit.LINK
-5spd Driveshaft for your tranny (ebay is best if cant get it local)
-Tranny LINK
-shifter (get a nice aftermarket one. I have tri ax and like it after I did the "tall guy mod".)
-Lower shifter boot (ebay or dealer)
-5 spd center console for shifter OR use your auto one and glue in a aftermarket shifter boot. Use contact cement. Its what I did. Looks completely stock. and only cost $15.
Removal:
1. Remove exhaust crossover
2.Drain tranny fluid.
3.remove driveshaft.
4. support tranny with a jack and remove the tranny crossmember
5. lower rear of tranny to gain access to the top 2 tranny mounting bolts. Remove them. Raise end of tranny back up.
6. remove starter bolts (top one is a pain, get LOTS of extensions/universal joints and thread them through the space just under the pass side engine mount. Do not re-install this bolt)
7. disconnect shift linkage and wiring from the tranny
8. remove inspection cover and unbolt torque converter from flex plate
9. support the front of the motor (either by the balancer or under the oil pan)
10. unbolt tranny from motor
11. remove auto shift linkage
12. remove brake pedal set
13. remove auto tranny wire harness. (the connector is on the pass side firewall just behind the 2 heater hoses that seem to "hump")
14. Remove flex plate
Fab work:
You need to cut out the hole in the floor a little bigger for the shifter. I cut off 3/4" all the way around and it fit great.
Install:
1. bolt up flywheel
2. install clutch
3. install wire harness
4. install pedal set and clutch cable
5. Bolt up tranny (shifter removed)
6. install starter (don't use the top bolt)
7. install clutch cable/wiring harness connectors
8. install driveshaft
9. fill tranny with 3.3 qts dextron III fluid through shifter hole
10. install shifter
11. install lower shifter boot. (may require some bending to fit. Fasten to car with small self tapping sheet metal screws spaced 1")
12. adjust clutch
13. install upper boot
14. check everything again
15. Check everything AGAIN
16. Start car and check the following: clutch function and adjustment, reverse lights, listen for noises.
17. if all is good install cross over pipe and your done.
I would HIGHLY suggest the use of a lift and tranny jack.
This can be done without a lift, provided you can support the car on jackstands/ramps high enough to slide the tranny out from under the car. Make sure you have lots of friends to help. The pedals are the BIGGEST PAIN IN THE A$$!!! No room to work, you're upside down, and you WILL drop pliers on your face at least once.
Took me 10 hours, working slowly, taking a beer break every hour
Any questions, feel free to ask.
I did my swap and it was VERY easy. (Keep in mind I have a lot of automotive background) However, If you can turn a wrench, have common sense, and A nice COMPLETE set of tools, this shouldn't be too hard for you. And in the end, you will be far more confident working on your car. Total swap cost me $1450 with a used tranny and driveshaft. Price can range from $1,200 to $3,000 depending on what you buy and who you get it from. The most important thing is to make sure you have everything you need, and that it is the right part, before you start the project. You can sell your 4r70w for 300-700 bucks on ebay.
You will need:
Haynes manual!!!!
Beer and bandaids
-Flywheel HEY! READ THIS!!!!!! 4.6L engines may have 6 or 8 bolts to attach to the crankshaft. Check the engine code before ordering. Romeo built engines have 6 bolts and Windsor built engines have 8 bolts. All Cobra engines have 8 bolts. The 8th character in the VIN is (X) for Windsor engine plant or (W) for Romeo engine plant. LINK
-Clutch LINK
-longer bolts for the 5spd flywheel LINK
-5spd transmission wiring harness (dealer they will tell you it is $400 though. It's really only $70. Get it from a speed shop that can order ford parts. If you can't find one, Call Don at LINK)
-clutch/brake pedal set. LINK
-Clutch cable LINK
-Go ahead and get an aftermarket clutch quadrant and firewall adjuster. They're cheap, and make clutch adjustment an easy one person job. Brenspeed sells the cable, firewall adjuster, and quadrant in a kit.LINK
-5spd Driveshaft for your tranny (ebay is best if cant get it local)
-Tranny LINK
-shifter (get a nice aftermarket one. I have tri ax and like it after I did the "tall guy mod".)
-Lower shifter boot (ebay or dealer)
-5 spd center console for shifter OR use your auto one and glue in a aftermarket shifter boot. Use contact cement. Its what I did. Looks completely stock. and only cost $15.
Removal:
1. Remove exhaust crossover
2.Drain tranny fluid.
3.remove driveshaft.
4. support tranny with a jack and remove the tranny crossmember
5. lower rear of tranny to gain access to the top 2 tranny mounting bolts. Remove them. Raise end of tranny back up.
6. remove starter bolts (top one is a pain, get LOTS of extensions/universal joints and thread them through the space just under the pass side engine mount. Do not re-install this bolt)
7. disconnect shift linkage and wiring from the tranny
8. remove inspection cover and unbolt torque converter from flex plate
9. support the front of the motor (either by the balancer or under the oil pan)
10. unbolt tranny from motor
11. remove auto shift linkage
12. remove brake pedal set
13. remove auto tranny wire harness. (the connector is on the pass side firewall just behind the 2 heater hoses that seem to "hump")
14. Remove flex plate
Fab work:
You need to cut out the hole in the floor a little bigger for the shifter. I cut off 3/4" all the way around and it fit great.
Install:
1. bolt up flywheel
2. install clutch
3. install wire harness
4. install pedal set and clutch cable
5. Bolt up tranny (shifter removed)
6. install starter (don't use the top bolt)
7. install clutch cable/wiring harness connectors
8. install driveshaft
9. fill tranny with 3.3 qts dextron III fluid through shifter hole
10. install shifter
11. install lower shifter boot. (may require some bending to fit. Fasten to car with small self tapping sheet metal screws spaced 1")
12. adjust clutch
13. install upper boot
14. check everything again
15. Check everything AGAIN
16. Start car and check the following: clutch function and adjustment, reverse lights, listen for noises.
17. if all is good install cross over pipe and your done.
I would HIGHLY suggest the use of a lift and tranny jack.
This can be done without a lift, provided you can support the car on jackstands/ramps high enough to slide the tranny out from under the car. Make sure you have lots of friends to help. The pedals are the BIGGEST PAIN IN THE A$$!!! No room to work, you're upside down, and you WILL drop pliers on your face at least once.
Took me 10 hours, working slowly, taking a beer break every hour
Any questions, feel free to ask.