Autocross / Daily Driver setup for GT?

[jay07]

I'm hoping you guys can give me some advice on how to setup my GT for occasional autocross use, that can also be used as my daily driver.

Current setup:
07 GT
18" wheel/tire (factory)
FRPP suspension package (front/rear springs, struts sway bars, front cross brace).

The FRPP suspension package isn't install yet, but is paid for and sitting in my garage, and I'm getting an itch to install it soon .

What else should I go for?

I'm assuming there are some other suspension mods I should do, but I don't want to make my ride so rough that it's not good for a daily driver.

thanks in advance!

 

[bigcat]

upgrade any bushings, or replace components that have improved bushings already.

 

[orange 07]

I have the same goal for my car. I would change the lower control arms
to get rid of the stock bushings.
Brake pads for sure, and mabye a one piece driveshaft to lighten up
rotational weight.
A 5-pt harness will keep your but in place so you can do your best
job driving also.

 

[jay07]

I have the same goal for my car. I would change the lower control arms
to get rid of the stock bushings.
Brake pads for sure, and mabye a one piece driveshaft to lighten up
rotational weight.
A 5-pt harness will keep your but in place so you can do your best
job driving also.

Any 5-point harnasses that are bolt on? i.e. that don't require me to drill holes, etc. hehe.

Also, feel free to recommend brands etc. too, this is all fairly new to me, so inform away

 

[orange 07]

In my 93 I raced I used RCI which needed the crotch point to drill a hole.
so I would look into corbeau belts which I think are 4pt and Im assuming you
could attach those to the original seatbelt mounts. Im not sure but its a place
to start looking.
It's good your considering belts for track driving for many reasons.

 

[FNG 2001]

Don't get too mod crazy

You may be getting ahead of yourself. It is really easy to get bitten by the mod bug. Here's my advice. Install your handling pack and enjoy. Drive your car. If after taking your car to the track leaves you desiring more, investigate into further improvements.

 

[jay07]

Bigcat, thanks for the lowering spring write up, I'm about to order the camber bolts. I had one question though. I remember reading at some point someone recommending adjusting the pinion angle when you lower the car?

Should that be done? My FRPP package will lower the car 1.5" and if it should be done to make everything work right, I'd rather be prepared and do the job right.

 

[bigcat]

to get optimal settings, an adjustable upper would be good. if you want to do it right, get adjustable panhard and upper control arm.

 

[jlisle01]

A good 5 or 6 point harness should be at the top of everyones list if you do any type of racing at all. However, DO NOT mount a harness to the floor! The shoulder straps on a harness can cause spinal compression injuries if installed such that they are too low compared to the drivers shoulder. They should be mounted to a roll bar or harness bar only. Sparco has a harness bar in the works for the S197.
If they're not mounted correctly then you're better off with the stock belts.

Go here and click the "harness install pdf" for more

http://www.gforce.com/products/harnesses/camlock/cam_indivshouldersets.html

 

[Mr_Q]

AutoX, with its lower speeds, doesn't really warrant spending lots of money on safety gear or dealing with race day only mods for a daily driver.

Most the guys who do full road course racing out at Willow Springs here in SOCAL just use a belt locker. Keeps your hips planted fairly well and allows you to maintain better control.

I only ever seen one real accident that having a full harness and roll cage would have been nice to have. But that guy was driving like a maniac and had to know it was coming. You are staggered enough at controlled, properly run, road coarse events that cars rarely get close together when pushing it. Especially in the first two tiers.

For now, install your handling pack, get some Hawk HP+ pads from Tirerack, change the brake fluid out with a high temp brake fluid. Tireack sells this and it does the job. Or of course Motul or Ford truck fluid works nicely. Remember to put the stock pads back on afterwards, don't drive around with the track pads! And you'll want to change your fluid again after the race.

Those Hawk pads don't cost that much and perform way better than the stock pads. Plus you don't really want to drive on the same pad you race. Hawk does make more intense track only pads, the black and blue line, but that is overkill for you at the moment.

Last thing, have fun!

 

[jlisle01]

I thought the advice for a harness was mostly for the benefit of keeping the driver planted so you can work more on your driving and less on holding yourself up. Our stock seats are pitiful. I simply wanted to point out that if it's going to be done you might as well drill a hole and do it right. A harness bar is easily installed and removed and doesn't cost that much. As for auto-crossing being "low speed" and therefore unworthy of safety gear, I'll refer you to a common saying about helmets that I believe should be applied by auto enthusiasts more often. The saying is; " Cheap head, cheap helmet!" A properly installed harness will help you drive better, looks cool, and might save you some pain and suffering. I find it hard to argue with that.

 

[Mr_Q]

I didn't say a harness was a bad idea, just excessive for his first time out.

Get a good helmet or borrow one, get the CG-Lock as it helps to plant her butt and hips in the seat and go out and see if you like it.

Don't go spending a ton of cash on mods for racing only to find out you don't like it is more my point.

 

[jlisle01]

Well, I can't argue with that advice. For most people (me included) a bone stock Mustang GT can drive better than they can drive it anyway. I used to think racing in any form was 90% car and 10% driver. My first day on a track, I learned the opposite was true. The goal should always be to have fun while learning to be a better driver. If you're not having fun then you might as well go to work instead!

 

[jay07]

I've had a little experience on the track at Road Atlanta, but unfortunately I'm in VA now and don't have as nice a track near me anymore . I'm mostly just new to modding cars, I've never really done much to my past daily drivers, and I bought the mustang so I could have some fun modifying it.

And yeah, I plan on getting a good helmet too, the local club requires one for their events.

I'll probably go:
1) install the FRPP kit
2) add the adjustable panhard just to keep things lined up, that and bigcat has a nice writeup on how to install it .

Then I'll see where I stand, look into an upgraded brake system, CAI + tune, etc.

BTW, why remove the track pads for daily driver use? Would they just wear down too quick? I've used Hawk HPS on my current daily driver and have around 15k miles on the pads and they are actually starting to get worn. But I like the stopping power

 

[Mr_Q]

Hawk HPS are not track pads. The Hawk HP+ are the first level of track pad and trust me, after your first stop you'll know it. Squuuuuueeeeeellll.

Three reasons not to run track pads on a daily driver.

1) They're noisy and squeel like mad

2) They require more heat to get to best stopping power. So you'll decrease your braking performance on the street.

3) After running on ANY pad all day at the track, your pads are going to be toast, just like your fluid. Your foot will be going to the floor when you use your brakes at the end of the day.

 

[orange 07]

In my 93 I used SBS ceramic pads and I raced it at road america
which is the highest speed road course in the U.S and drove home
with the same pads, used them all year on the street with no
squeeling. So if you choose a pad somewhere between full track and
stock I dont see the need to be changing pads all the time.
Check out EBC green stuff. There ceramic, have low dust,can take abuse
and are good on the street.

 

[Craft]

I don't know if you have a NASA group near you but it is worth investigating. Their HPDE program is a very good training program for high performance driving.
I have done several events with them, and have come away from each event a much improved driver.
At my first event I let my instructor drive my car (with me as a passenger) and I could not believe how fast our mustangs can be, driven properly. The point being that the new mustangs are a very capable car, right out of the box.
The only modifications I have made to my car are changing the brake fluid to Motul 600 and upping the tire pressure to 37 lbs.
I have yet to run a lap as smooth and fast as my first instructor, but I am getting much smoother and faster every event. As my skill improves, the shortcomings of the mustangs suspension seem less of an issue. The point being that experience and skill play a major role in driving really fast.
Before you modify any safety related equipment (seat belts, seats, etc.) check with the group the group you are going to run with, as they will probably have pretty specific requirements. You don't want to show up and not be allowed to run.

 

[tomustang]

Well atleast Mr_Q gave some insight

Brakes and Tires, main focus. This isn't a drag strip or road race course where you need alot of jazz. Start small, get attuned with your car and mod piece by piece to your liking, it'll also show you what your car is made of from stock to modified

 

[Rudyq59]

I have been autocrossing for years, although this year will be the first in my Mustang. Before I spend one cent on anything, I will have prchased a set of extra rims and race tires. I have seen totally stock Honda Accords kick but because they have a nice set of Hoosiers! My advice...get the tires and then go from there!

 

[mustangmike6996]

has anyone seen the BMR adjustable FRONT control arms? are these a good component? its the first front adjustable ive seen for the s197...