Autolite 25 nor Bosch Platinum could take the heat!!!

[95Vert]

I recently installed the MSD6AL box and already had the ignition kit, which needs a gap of .060. Well, I had my Autolite 25 on there before the MSD and I knew something was wrong(heard it in exhaust) and last night when I decided to step on it, the plugs just melted. I mean literally, some were disfigured and other's were just dust. I was upset but also glad since I knew my ignition kit and msd were working. So I had an old set of Bosch platinum that were on my car before the upgrade,well, when I put those on and took the car for a ride, I felt all the hp/tq that had been missing but suddenly it started doing the same thing. I took off the plugs and one of them was broken . I'm talking about the middle part inside the plug that sticks out and creates the spark(same that had vanished on the copper ones). My question is, is this normal and if it is, what plugs could I use so I won't have this problem anymore? Splitfire, Bosch 4, or something else?

Thanx

 

[OrangeMustangGt]

sounds like a det/lean condition

 

[89MustangGX]

sounds like a det/lean condition

I agree, maybe a bad injector or something?

 

[HISSIN50]

i might try a heat range colder - annealed copper plugs.

you could go with irridium if your pocket allows. those should hold up.

 

[95Vert]

Alright, so how do i do it to check my injectors? When I swapped the bad plugs to the platinum ones, the car felt a lot stronger, but it only lasted for a little bit. I just scanned(actual scanner not code reader) the computer about 2 weeks ago and nothing came up. Just 02 sensors due to no smog pump. I really don't want to buy new plugs if they're just going to mess up again. I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a gauge, I have it at 39 with vacuum off. That is correct right? When I place the vacuum back, it goes down to about 36 or so.
Thanks

 

[Killercanary]

You shouldn't be lean with that FP setting and a 190lph fuel pump. I think I was at 40lbs when I had my intake and such on the stock heads. I doubt you are running lean enough to melt the plugs, if you were you'd trip a CE light. Are the plugs WHITE, BROWN, or BLACK? White=lean, brown= good A/F, black=rich. Your better off being richer than leaner. Also, the plugs should be checked IMMEDIATELY after a full throttle blast, just don't burn yourself. I'd call MSD and see what they say... I've never heard of anyone melting plugs just from ignition upgrades.

 

[95snoozer]

NGKs

 

[95Vert]

Well, the copper plugs(the two that are good) look brown, but what do I know, I'm color blind The platinum, since they have a white tip, have black dust over them. I thought the same thing about running lean but am not too educated on these matters so didn't argue. I mean, if I was to be running leaning I could just advance the f/p. I hadn't noticed but when I took the vacuum off to adjust the pressure, it was around 45 or 46, I mean, way up there, so I had to bring it down. Might that have caused the problem?? I just spoke to a guy at O'Reileys and he said he also thinks it's a lean problem, he also mentioned something about the timing not advancing correctly on its own. He recommended a guy that works on 5.0s, so I think I'm gonna take it to him to check my a/f ration and my timing adjustments.

 

[89MustangGX]

Alright, so how do i do it to check my injectors? When I swapped the bad plugs to the platinum ones, the car felt a lot stronger, but it only lasted for a little bit. I just scanned(actual scanner not code reader) the computer about 2 weeks ago and nothing came up. Just 02 sensors due to no smog pump. I really don't want to buy new plugs if they're just going to mess up again. I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and a gauge, I have it at 39 with vacuum off. That is correct right? When I place the vacuum back, it goes down to about 36 or so.
Thanks

I don't think I've ever gotten a code for O2's from no smog pump (EECIV), maybe the O2's are actually bad (really bad)?

 

[HISSIN50]

I don't think I've ever gotten a code for O2's from no smog pump (EECIV), maybe the O2's are actually bad (really bad)?

Adam, i had the exact same thoughts. the lambdas and air injection should not have anything to do with one another (except on start up when air is diverted into the heads, at which time lambdas might not be working anyhow. codes and lambdas should not be checked during such conditions anyhow).

 

[95snoozer]

do you have no spog AND cats? if the cats clog badly your 02s can get an extreme reading and the computer will go into closed loop and dump fuel.

 

[95Vert]

No cats nor smog pump. Alright, with this mechanic, the total comes to 6 and they all have given me different answers. Two said something about the timing, another just didn't know , another said something about my cooling system , another just said to go check my computer, and this last one did something pretty interesting. He unplugged the plugs from the dizzy one by one and the engine wanted to quit, but when he got to #7, the engine did nothing Why could this be? He also said about my afpr meaning nothing since the computer is the one that takes care of supplying the injectors with gas, so if the computer doesn't give them more gas, no matter what I do out here, the injectors still wouldn't see anything.

PS, I also went ahead and bought the 24s and gapped them at .056 and bumped my fuel pressure to 41psi. They held up pretty well last night when I took it out for a couple of rides, BUT before getting home, I decided to step on it again and the car didn't go over 120mph. I heard small backfiring and the rpms began to drop. After that, I let go and the car just felt weak again.

WHAT IS GOING ON?!?!?!?!?
THAT #7 PLUG REALLY HAS MY ATTENTION!!!!

 

[95Vert]

OK, I've got some useful info for you guys trying to help me out. I just got back from a mechanic's place and he scanned the computer for me. I got all of these codes, now, keep in mind that I have no smog pump so some of them are useless.

1. 327- EGR Signal Too Low
2. 157- Mass Air Flow Signal Too Low
3. 172- EGO Not Switching- Lean Exhaust Bank 1
4. 176- EGO Not Switching- Lean Exhaust Bank 2
5. 212- No Tach Input To Process Spout

Also, I took out all the plugs I just installed last night and #1 & #2 were melted, and #3, #4, #5, #6, & #8 were blue. I guess that means that they're going to melt pretty soon. But #7 was white. So, the mechanic took out the spark tester and tested #2 and said the spark was fine and that it has to be that the plugs that just can't handle the spark. Referring back to the lean condition, he bumped up the fuel pressure to 39 with the vacuum line. I just hope you guys find some useful information in here and help me solve this mess.

Thanks

PS, he also cleaned the MAF, so hopefully that's taken care of as well.

 

[89MustangGX]

WHAT IS GOING ON?!?!?!?!?
THAT #7 PLUG REALLY HAS MY ATTENTION!!!!

First thing that makes me think of -- is that the cylinder isn't firing. I would have suspected a melted plug on that cylinder -- from lack of fuel (bad injector was still what I was thinking).

With the other plugs being all strange -- because your mechanic was unplugging plugs and checking things I don't know if I would draw any conclusions from that. I might keep an eye on these new plugs -- specifically the #7 and see what happens. I might dump a few bottles of dry-gas type stuff in the tank and see if maybe it clears some crud out of the injectors or something as well.

 

[HISSIN50]

has a balance test been done on #7 to see if the injector is working within spec?

good luck.

 

[95Vert]

No hissin50, there hasn't been a balance test. I'm gonna get one of those.

Update, I raised my f/p to 41 with the vaccum on and the car seems to be running fine. I bought the 24s that been melted on cylinder 1 & 2 and gapped them at .056. The car is running fine but I still hear misfiring on my left exhaust pipe. Might that be that injector or is it something else? Also, I removed plug #7 and it was white!!

 

[Killercanary]

5. 212- No Tach Input To Process Spout

OK, I never heard of this code before BUT to me that is a BIG problem right there. If there is no way for the EEC to know what the engine RPM is it can't function right at all. This is telling me that you are driving around with your timing set at initial and getting NO spark advance because the EEC doesn't know TO advance it. I'd DEFINTELY look into that. I don't think that is your only problem, but its one that needs adressed too.

 

[95Vert]

Thanks Paul, I called the stealership and the spout costs $30 . A buddy also has a stang and I will exchange with him for a couple of days and see what happens. Where might be a good place to look for a better explanation of this code???

 

[95Vert]

Might this be the reason why my car just won't go over 120mph?? It just seems to get there and go downhill from there. RPMs and MPH start to fall. I had not had that problem with my 2 previous stangs.