Automatic guys rejoice!

Islander03GT

New Member

Jan 19, 2004

470

0

0

Simi Valley, Ca

Mar 30, 2004

#101

• Mar 30, 2004

• #101

thanks. do you know what gauge wire i'll need (for extension purposes) as well?

 

nyuk98gt

15 Year Member

Oct 10, 2000

1,427

6

79

Chesterfield, MO

Mar 30, 2004

#102

• Mar 30, 2004

• #102

Islander03GT:

Well, all I did was take a small bit to Radio Shack and picked out something similar. I'm sorry but I don't know the gauge -- it is rather fine wire. Any small stuff will do, preferably multi-strand (rather than solid). Also, I suggest that you solder the joints and use heat shrink rather than using little wire nuts.

Chris

 

Islander03GT

New Member

Jan 19, 2004

470

0

0

Simi Valley, Ca

Mar 31, 2004

#103

• Mar 31, 2004

• #103

thanks.

i hate wire nuts/butt connectors. i think its time to learn to solder since i dont trust this to a simple twist and tape job.

 

Islander03GT

New Member

Jan 19, 2004

470

0

0

Simi Valley, Ca

Apr 4, 2004

#104

• Apr 4, 2004

• #104

one more question... whats the best way to take the console apart for this? without scratching anything up of course. are there any screws or anything holding the plastic piece around the shifter in?

 

trublustallion

Founding Member

Dec 15, 2001

386

1

16

El Paso, Texas

Apr 4, 2004

#105

• Apr 4, 2004

• #105

Islander03GT said:

one more question... whats the best way to take the console apart for this? without scratching anything up of course. are there any screws or anything holding the plastic piece around the shifter in?

Click to expand...

no, just pull the hell out of it (carefully) it should pop right out

 

nyuk98gt

15 Year Member

Oct 10, 2000

1,427

6

79

Chesterfield, MO

Apr 5, 2004

#106

• Apr 5, 2004

• #106

Islander03GT:

You only need to remove the cowl, the trim piece that surrounds the shifter. As 'trublustallion' says, it pulls straight up. Try working on the edge at the back first. Once one section is 'up', the rest is easy to remove. Just be careful because there are little metal expansion clips on the plastic tabs (moulded onto the bottom of the cowl); the plastic tabs are long and kind of delicate. If you need to buy a new cowl, it is not very pricey.

Chris

 

Islander03GT

New Member

Jan 19, 2004

470

0

0

Simi Valley, Ca

Apr 5, 2004

#107

• Apr 5, 2004

• #107

ok, thanks guys. the knob came today so i'm putting it all together after i eat and go get the switch i need. i'll post pics when i'm done.

 

Islander03GT

New Member

Jan 19, 2004

470

0

0

Simi Valley, Ca

Apr 5, 2004

#108

• Apr 5, 2004

• #108

Its done!

Props to MGW and 50resto for fast shipping. I even taught myself to solder today . Anyone who has been contemplating this one, do it. Huge difference in how your interior looks, cost me about 100 bucks.

Enough with that stuff, here's the pics. The little black button is the O/D, which works great!

 

dkshadow

Banned

May 12, 2003

952

0

0

TEXAS

Apr 5, 2004

#109

• Apr 5, 2004

• #109

Nice... Whats the red button/light

Go make a seperate thread with how you went through with it.

 

Islander03GT

New Member

Jan 19, 2004

470

0

0

Simi Valley, Ca

Apr 6, 2004

#110

• Apr 6, 2004

• #110

the red light is the alarm. you guys want a how to? i'll post it up tomorrow.

 

trublustallion

Founding Member

Dec 15, 2001

386

1

16

El Paso, Texas

Apr 6, 2004

#111

• Apr 6, 2004

• #111

does it feel weird to shift with it?

like do you forget you have tu push down on it instead of pushing a button?

 

Islander03GT

New Member

Jan 19, 2004

470

0

0

Simi Valley, Ca

Apr 6, 2004

#112

• Apr 6, 2004

• #112

yeah its feels kinda different, i havent forgotten yet, I'm loving it though.

 

Krillind8z

Member

Jun 1, 2002

37

0

6

Henderson, NV

Apr 6, 2004

#113

• Apr 6, 2004

• #113

dkshadow said:

"Faster" is a subjective word. Not everyone that has a 5-speed is inherently faster than their automatic counterparts. For instance, you might suck ass with the 5-speed and will get killed by an auto since itll be IMPOSSIBLE to miss a gear. Also, not everyone that has an auto has a stock, slow car . Theres a reason some went with the auto.

Click to expand...

Yeah but Auto w/ stall and shift kit will be consistent and kill a regular 5 speed car.

Plus you don't have to worry about 1st to 2nd clunk either.

Maybe I should have gone auto instead.

 

dkshadow

Banned

May 12, 2003

952

0

0

TEXAS

Apr 7, 2004

#114

• Apr 7, 2004

• #114

Krillind8z said:

Yeah but Auto w/ stall and shift kit will be consistent and kill a regular 5 speed car.

Plus you don't have to worry about 1st to 2nd clunk either.

Maybe I should have gone auto instead.

Click to expand...

I even forgot I made that post

And Im saving up for a 2800-3200 stall converter and a new Vavle Body. It should be one badass set up

 

Krillind8z

Member

Jun 1, 2002

37

0

6

Henderson, NV

Apr 7, 2004

#115

• Apr 7, 2004

• #115

dkshadow said:

I even forgot I made that post

And Im saving up for a 2800-3200 stall converter and a new Vavle Body. It should be one badass set up

Click to expand...

Hands down the best bang for the buck mods you can do to an auto. Being as right there you can shave off at least .5 off a quarter, etc.

 

M

Mosco

New Member

Jan 6, 2004

22

0

0

Apr 7, 2004

#116

• Apr 7, 2004

• #116

That is one bad ass mama jama!! I look forward to doing the same thing.

I was laughing my butt off cause someone mentioned the "ET" handle. I too thought the same thing.

I bought my 99 GT at a great deal and had low low miles. It is a laser red vert with grey leather, I wasn't gonna pass her up.
I have yet to lose to a stick stang---and my car is completely stock! I prefer 5 speed cause its a lot more fun but I don't regret my stang being an auto.