• Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Bad IAC ?

  • Thread starter Thread starter pile_53574
  • Start date Start date Apr 10, 2011
P

pile_53574

Member
May 1, 2005
30
4
19
SW WI
Apr 10, 2011
#1
  • Apr 10, 2011
  • #1
Going thru the surging idle checklist, don't have a voltmeter handy. Car is 88 GT, had engine at operating temp unplugged IAC and no change in idle at all, still at 1200~1300. This mean the motor or actuator part is bad?? Already checked vacuum lines, new tps, new air charge sensor(full of crud),cleaned TB, EGR, and IAC. Have almost no hair left!!!! Pulled codes before started and none came up??? So I'm goin thru the list chasing stuff.
 
R

raistlin77

New Member
Jul 7, 2009
28
0
2
Apr 10, 2011
#2
  • Apr 10, 2011
  • #2
Read my " engine code" post that I started yesterday. We discuss the iac operations.
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,811
234
Dublin GA
Apr 10, 2011
#3
  • Apr 10, 2011
  • #3
If you did not get an 11 when you dumped the codes, you have computer or wiring problems. An 11 is the code posted when the computer passes its internal self test. No 11 means problems.



Got an 11 when you dumped the codes, then...

See the "Surging Idle Checklist for help with all your idle/stall problems.

The quick and easy way to dump the codes is in there too, and all you need to do it is a paper clip! The first two posts contain all the updates to the fixes. At last count there were 24 possible causes and fixes for surging idle/stall problems. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions.
 
P

pile_53574

Member
May 1, 2005
30
4
19
SW WI
Apr 10, 2011
#4
  • Apr 10, 2011
  • #4
There were no codes when we started. Sooo am I looking at a bad computer or where do I go from here???
 

jrichker

StangNet's favorite TOOL
In Remembrance. Thank you for your contributions
Mar 10, 2000
27,512
2,811
234
Dublin GA
Apr 10, 2011
#5
  • Apr 10, 2011
  • #5
Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 86-90 model 5.0 Mustangs

Disconnect the battery positive terminal before making any resistance checks.
The voltage drop in the ground cable will cause incorrect resistance readings.


How it is supposed to work:
The black/white wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated
ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the
computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work
properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power
and drivability problems.
Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its
way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should
read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from anyplace on the engine harness with the battery
pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.

What sometimes happens is that the test connector black/white wire gets jumpered to power
which either burns up the wiring or burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer.
That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 & 60. Only an experienced electronics technician can open
the computer up & repair the trace if it burns up and creates an open circuit.

The STI (Self Test Input ) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. Jumpering
it to power can produce unknown results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test
simply verifies that there are no breaks in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring :
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground
(black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than
1.5 ohms.



If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer
connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between
the black/white wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector: it should be less than
1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the
computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins
40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that that and the computer’s internal
ground has failed, and the computer needs to be replaced.

See http://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/749974-computer-issue.html#post7490537 for Joel5.0’s fix for the computer internal signal ground.

If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the
resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on
the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More that 1.5 ohms is a
wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer wiring connector.


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Check out the diagram and notice all the places the black/white wire goes. Almost every
sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring Mustang FAQ - Wiring & Engine Info

 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,164
17,859
224
Massachusetts
Apr 10, 2011
#6
  • Apr 10, 2011
  • #6
Or.....you possibly didn't do it right? Don't assume the worst just yet. Bad computer and th car wouldn't run...not surge

Run the codes again...you should get something. 11 is the all clear code.
 
P

pile_53574

Member
May 1, 2005
30
4
19
SW WI
Apr 10, 2011
#7
  • Apr 10, 2011
  • #7
Car starts right up, and has all kinds of power, only problem I have is a bit of high idle~1200-1300. I will recheck for codes tomarrow. Thanks for all the info.
 

KDK1988GT

Founding Member
Jan 7, 2002
1,937
0
37
Fredericton
Apr 15, 2011
#8
  • Apr 15, 2011
  • #8
pile_53574 said:
Car starts right up, and has all kinds of power, only problem I have is a bit of high idle~1200-1300. I will recheck for codes tomarrow. Thanks for all the info.
Click to expand...

do you have your idle set screw to high??
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

7
Engine Random hanging idle
  • 706 Saleen
  • Feb 11, 2026
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
9
Views
432
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Feb 19, 2026
86HO5.0
8
SURGING IDLE / NO IDLE CHECKLIST FOR 1996–1998 MUSTANG GT (4.6L 2V) - Work In Progress
  • Noobz347
  • Aug 30, 2025
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
0
Views
656
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Aug 30, 2025
Noobz347
S
Fuel ‘88 GT Runs Rich Cold — Fixes Itself When I Unplug Sensors (ECT, MAF, O2, etc.)
  • Sufarry
  • Nov 6, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
12
Views
712
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Nov 9, 2025
Mustang5L5
SURGING IDLE / NO IDLE CHECKLIST FOR 1999–2004 MUSTANG GT (4.6L 2V) - Work In Progress
  • Noobz347
  • Aug 30, 2025
  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
Replies
0
Views
802
1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk- Aug 30, 2025
Noobz347
8
Engine Rough idle and aggressive sputtering when accelerating
  • 88vertible
  • Aug 13, 2025
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Replies
4
Views
1K
Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech Dec 13, 2025
Jarhead67
J
Share:
Bluesky Email Share Link
  • Mustang Forums
  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech
Menu
Log in

Register

  • Forums
  • What's new
  • Media
  • Resources
  • Contact
  • Sponsor
X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?

X

Privacy & Transparency

We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:

  • Personalized ads and content
  • Content measurement and audience insights

Do you accept cookies and these technologies?