Bad TFI ???

[ARMAGEDON]

The car's RPM's will intermitently fluctuate between 200 and 3000 rpm and sometimes will stall. It will do this when starting cold after sitting all night and sometimes after driving awhile. No pattern.

I had not made any changes to the car in a year and it ran great. Then the problems.

I have replaced the coil, cap/rotor, plug wires, plugs, fuel filter and IAC. The EGR is blocked off and plug in. The only codes are egr and thermactor.

Still not fixed.

I know if the TFI is bad it will stutter and stall when hot, but will it also do this when starting cold?

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

[The Shape]

Any number of things could cause the problems you are having. It definently wouldn't hurt to take your TFI to the parts store and have it tested.

 

[ARMAGEDON]

.

 

[jrichker]

Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/detailedproductdescription.asp?3829 – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $33.

 

[ARMAGEDON]

Well it wasn't the TFI. I replaced it with an new one and I still have the stuttereing rpm and occasional stalling. I also cleaned the ground for the msd. I hear no leaks in any hoses. I replaced the rubber caps on the egr.

I cleared the codes in the puter. It is still only throwing the usual codes (94,44,33). I don't think any of the codes would cause the problem.

I guess next I will have to replace the stator and then on to the msd. After that, I think that I would have replaced all the ignition sys. components.

I am starting to get pretty irritated w/ the whole thing.

 

[HISSIN50]

so you have an ignition box? i would disconnect it (would have done that first) to see if the issue is resolved. you would not be the first to have a box issue.

good luck.

 

[ARMAGEDON]

so you have an ignition box? i would disconnect it (would have done that first) to see if the issue is resolved. you would not be the first to have a box issue.

good luck.

Great idea.

I really don't want to have to take the car to the performance shop to get it figured out.

I would just like to get the somebeeeotch fixed so I can drive it. I cant put more stuff on until I fix it. I can't even reliably drive it.

 

[Loco5.0]

Ever figure it out?