Bad Vibrations... HELP!!!! Video Inside

Adam95GT

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
2,564
3
0
Burlington, NJ
#1
Alright well out of no where i went to start the car this morning and its vibrating like crazy. It still does it worse at 1k like i sad b4 but now its doing it through the entire RPM range. UGGG... i took a video someone help! I just looked at the video and i relized it doesent help 2 much you cant really see the vibrations... but its throughout the RPM band but woorst around 1k after i reve it and let off you can see the motor shake a bit... it also makes my shifter shake like crazy... i thought mounts at first... they dont look bad though.. im thinking harmonic balancer i looked from up top and it didnt seem 2 bad... i felt behind it and could feel rubber but thats about all i can tell you im at school with it curently... If you watch the hood prop you can see how bad the vibrations are....

the fact that i can stick my hand behind the balancer and feel a huge rubber lip.... does that mean the pulley is bad... i should think so... if you guys think thats the problem... where can i get one cheap...
http://s28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/blindfoldedhope/Mustang/?action=view&current=HPIM1197.flv

<embed width="430" height="355" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" wmode="transparent" src="http://s28.photobucket.com/player.swf?file=http://vid28.photobucket.com/albums/c236/blindfoldedhope/Mustang/HPIM1197.flv"></embed>
 
#2
If the vibration follows the engine's rpm, I'd say it's the balancer. Especially if you say you can feel rubber sticking out of it. If you want a cheap one, I can't remember the price but I do remember that Napa was the cheapest. Im pretty sure you'll need a puller to get the balancer off.
 
#3
I agree - if you can feel the rubber isolator, the balancer is definitely bad.

I bought my replacement balancer at AutoZone - can't remember how much I paid...

Make sure you use the correct tool to remove the old balancer and install the new one!
 
#4
i wanna say its a bad balencer. you need a puller to swap it out but its not a hard job at all.

i think you can pickup another stocker at parts stores for ~50

stick the car in 3rd
remove the belt
remove the crank pulley
remove the bolt that holds the balencer in place. dont forget to remove the washer also
use the puller tool and remove the harmonic balencer

repeat in reverse

also i wouldnt drive the car as it could cause damage to the crank
 
#6
Another balancer vote. Once the elastomer starts to go, you can often see the balancer's run-out go through the roof (as if someone hit the face of the outer ring with a hammer in one spot).

I'm not real big on the parts store replacements, unless it's a Pioneer (some parts stores sell them for around 100 bucks). I say this because you dont wanna toss good money after bad (needing to buy a good unit if the cheaper one fails).

But I also CANT agree more about not driving the car like this. Do NOT even let the car idle if the balancer is bad (it quells torsional harmonics). And if a parts store replacement is all that's feasible right now, do it. Then just keep an eye on it in the future.

Good luck Adam.
 
#7
That sucks... ive been driving the car around today put like 100miles on it and i need to drive it about 60 miles to get it home... its not vibrating that bad as long as i keep it away from 1k rpms... hopefully i can get this home on friday n get it fixxed... its all strait highway home though
 
#9
i would fix asap, do not rev it quickly bring them up slowly and you should make it. myne did the same thing, it would be cool to see the balancer shoot through the hood though, but would ruin the motor,


i bought a ford racing balancer from jugs for like $50
 
#13
Hey look what i found at advance auto...

Hissin you say this is the good sheet Ehhhh???
http://www.partsamerica.com/Product...IO&mfrpartnumber=DA3021&parttype=1269&ptset=A


Also anyone got a wright up??? i assume this is the same as the 79-93 instalation and removal... in which i have my big book to use for... i knew i kept the haynes for my 84 for a reason

i also read on that list that a leaky front main is often a result of this... I also noticed when changing my clutch that my front main had a small leak... so i guess this is 2 birds with one stone again... i can fix both and get them done with... how long of a job am i looking at... if its not that long you guys might see some pics of a explorer manifold instalation this weekend !


Do you guys think i already mess up my crannk shaft :( i hope i dont need to swap the car out i have $$$0
 
#15
Were I going with a parts store balancer, that is the one I'd choose.

You might have to remove your fan and/or radiator (it depends upon the degree of cooling system mods and the exact removal tool used).

Otherwise it's pretty straight forward. Do remember to remove the washer under the crank bolt (15/16" head, I think) before using the removal tool. If not, you can break the removal tool.

I'd use an installation tool as well. CSK (here locally atleast) loans out a nice removal and install tool (in one kit) that works well.

Size up your front crank seal when you remove the balancer. Often times the seal is indeed vulcanized (the seal is as hard as a rock). I'm kinda hinky on pulling the seal though because the timing cover is pot metal. Play it by ear.

There are some very good write-ups on here (both in 94-95 Land and on the fox side) for the install.

Good luck with the drive home and swap.
 
#16
When I changed mine i took of the coolant resevoir and the fan. Like 4 bolts total. And i WOULD NOT drive it with a messed up balancer.

when mine went bad it was shaking through the whole band too.
 
#17
I am pretty sure torque on the crankshaft bolt is 210Ft/Lbs. The trick is not just the torque but to make sure it is seated all the way up against the timing gear. It is a press fit, so it takes some force to get it on. Typically I tighten it down make sure its seated, then loosen the bolt and re-torque it to spec.

If you have calipers, measure the crankshaft to the lip of the balancer once you have taken out the crankshaft bolt. This will give you a reference when you are putting the new one in. Typically its somewhere around 1/8 of an inch.
 
#18
MadPony said:
I am pretty sure torque on the crankshaft bolt is 210Ft/Lbs. The trick is not just the torque but to make sure it is seated all the way up against the timing gear. It is a press fit, so it takes some force to get it on. Typically I tighten it down make sure its seated, then loosen the bolt and re-torque it to spec.

If you have calipers, measure the crankshaft to the lip of the balancer once you have taken out the crankshaft bolt. This will give you a reference when you are putting the new one in. Typically its somewhere around 1/8 of an inch.
Click to expand...

I put mine around 100 when I tourqed it down.

And I didnt have to do any of that. I just pulled the old one and put the new one in. You cant really put it in wrong.
 
#20
i really hope i didnt mess up my crank by the time i will get think home i would already put like 200 miles on it with the vibration occuring... its actually not bad when nim in gear and driving... the shifter shakes a little bit thats all i can only feel it around 1-1.3k rpms... and just a little shake when i rev it... as of right now i got $200 to my name... so i hope i didnt mess up my crank... you guys think ill be alright??? i drove it because at first it felt like motor mounts to me... but then i felt behind the balancer and knew i was wrong.... :bang:
 
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