85GTStangGuy
Advanced Member
He's got a pic of one in post #4, so I assume that he changed the correct one.... the one that you're referring to.
Battery & cel light on no key!
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If you mean this one yea i just bought a new one like 3 days ago.I have battery disconnected cuz as soon as I connect it the cel light, battery light and the seat belt come on. I just swapped the switch, the actuator and the starter soloind.I changed ecc relay. It still does it when I disconnect map,the key chime. I even have the fuel injector harness not connected to the 10 pin. Also disconnect fuel relay, wot relay. Also when I disconnect the ecc(computer) the cel light goes away but I still get the battery symbol all with no key. I just disconnected the gauge cluster and the lights cel and battery and seatbelt) and I still get the fuel pump primming. It’s as if the key is in there in the koeo position. I called the tech but I was busy at work my boss watching me and by the time I got out it was closed. As for the fox guys in North Carolina no answer to my email test scince Sunday. I haven’t cheacked the fuse links yet. I don’t think it’s the alternator (cuz the battery light) because the fuel pump primes so don’t think that’s it.
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Damn, I need to talk to you in person to easily explain how to 're-set' the key switch, wish I'd jumped back here earlier this evening.
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
Installed a whole bunch of switches back when they were recalled
Easiest, best way I found was to leave the new switch in the on position
That is the one right next to the spring loaded start position
Then, turn the key to the on position and install the switch
Bolt it down and double check the adjustment
Easiest, best way I found was to leave the new switch in the on position
That is the one right next to the spring loaded start position
Then, turn the key to the on position and install the switch
Bolt it down and double check the adjustment
In other words reinstall the actuator rod in the position before the spring loaded on position or the ignition switch?
I would disconnect the battery, move the electrical switch to the 'run' position, where it springs back from start, install rod, install key switch in run position. Count positions turning key back (counter clockwise) it should have two positions, all the way back should be accessory, one position forward is off. Hook up battery, check function.
Thank you brother! I will try it today I hope it works. I called ford performance tech line and they said they couldn’t help me I’d have to take car to dealership and I called foxbody fox mustang Shop in north Carolina you tube and they had a female try and answer my questions no help. Referred me to the infamas project annoying. Thank you brother I will try and get back to you
I offer an extended warranty with that advice, standard warranty is 50ft or 50 seconds, but I only take iTunes gift cards. 
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
Right, the position right before the spring loaded section is "on"
It matters not if the battery is hooked up or not
You will plug the ignition switch in at the last
Usually do have the battery disconnected before unplugging the ignition switch anyway
It matters not if the battery is hooked up or not
You will plug the ignition switch in at the last
Usually do have the battery disconnected before unplugging the ignition switch anyway
It wasent that. It was a wire a black and orange wire I had with a t pin on the drivers side harness. I know it’s a hot wire. I had it connected from the black orange wire to a t pin in a fuse link. I had it like that for years and when I took it off the lights went away. Absolutely don’t mind sending you something thro PayPal just shoot me a email adress for it. I appreciate you .I remember that I used to get a cel light when I didn’t have it hooked up.Shoot me ur PayPal I’ll shoot you some cash for your time. What do you think it’s for ? I can’t find it on wiring diapram at least I see 2 black orange wires on there but not sure which one it might be.I think I had posted the issue of that wire here while back. Ever scince I had the car that wire wasn’t connected so I thought that’s where it went. I think the cel light went away then.I offer an extended warranty with that advice, standard warranty is 50ft or 50 seconds, but I only take iTunes gift cards.
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That wire may go to the hood light, the wire would be there with or without the light installed, I believe there is only two wires like that in that area, the other is for jumping the fuel pump,
No charge, you're welcome, I'm usually way off base so if I'm even close to the fix it's a win for me
No charge, you're welcome, I'm usually way off base so if I'm even close to the fix it's a win for me
Jumping the fuel pump ? The wire is hot. I had it in the t pin location for couple years and not it’s causing car dash lights to stay on . Can that be cuz one of those 2 fuse link looking things went bad? I’m over here now looking for harness info onlineThat wire may go to the hood light, the wire
That wire may go to the hood light, the wire would be there with or without the light installed, I believe there is only two wires like that in that area, the other is for jumping the fuel pump,
No charge, you're welcome, I'm usually way off base so if I'm even close to the fix it's a win for me
would be there with or without the light installed, I believe there is only two wires like that in that area, the other is for jumping the fuel pump,
No charge, you're welcome, I'm usually way off base so if I'm even close to the fix it's a win for me
I started it ,Now I’m getting a code 15. I got that code few days ago but ignored it.Car was popping loud when I was resetting timming.Think that has something to do with that wire?
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
Those codes under 20 are processor codes
Your code15 basically says there is no power on pin 1 of the processor and the ROM is gone
There are pinpoint tests for that
*I will post the car one if it is different
Your code15 basically says there is no power on pin 1 of the processor and the ROM is gone
There are pinpoint tests for that
*I will post the car one if it is different
So I see it says barro can it be a map sensor issue?im also getting 54. Cars popping horriblbly. I had restabbed the distbutor.
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
What engine is in that Stanger?
The car section on the old ones breaks the codes down into motor groups
The car section on the old ones breaks the codes down into motor groups
manicmechanic007
5 Year Member
Popping horribly is probably just the timing off or the firing order incorrect
You reset the base timing to 10 degrees BTDC with the spout out, right?
You reset the base timing to 10 degrees BTDC with the spout out, right?
Yes and used timming light and it’s at 14. That’s wherenn no I’ve always had it. Remember I just switched to 19 fuel injectors with matching stock maf. Firing order I looked over and over at cap diaphragm and ran to proper plugs. New plugs as of last week.And yes with spout out. Let’s say something is up with that code 15 or the 54 would that cause popping?
It’s a 302 stock bottom end, get 40 3 bar heads and trick flow intake,long tube headers.
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