Battery Gremlins

64moneypit · Dec 24, 2004

Hi All.
I got a problem with my 64 stang (yes with generator). Last year I had the motor rebuild (289 bored 60 over nice cam performer 2 manifold and edlebrock 600 4 barrel) and ever since intalling it the battery cant keep a charge. After 2-3 days of sitting its dead. I tried replacing the regulator but it didnt help. I disonected the neg lead and with everything off and closed I get 12.6v. I disconnected every fuse and still voltage diconnected the glove box switch still issues. when I plug a am meter in series I get .08A draw. I originally had an issue where the car wouldnt charge or run with battery disconected but now it charges and will run. what should be my next coarse of action. disconect the wires from the regulator, generator and then starter? could I have a bad ignition switch I know when I disconect the wiring harness near the brake cylender on the firewall in the engine compartment the issue goes away but not sure how much that helps.
thanks
andy

MERRY CHRISTMAS

66nightMARE · Dec 24, 2004

Mine used to do the same. I replaced the battery, nothin. Replaced the alternator, nothing. Finally replaced the voltage regualtor and it fixed it. Dont know what to tell you since you said you already replaced the regualtor.

64moneypit · Dec 24, 2004

its possible I got a lemon regulator. I've been meaning to convert to a one wire internally regulated alternator. Maybe now is the time. I futsed with the regulator and then it started charging. but before that had the drain issue.

JB66 · Dec 24, 2004

Anything else aftermarket installed? Do you have a clock? Remanf. radio?

10secgoal · Dec 25, 2004

I would reconnect everything and start from scratch. Every power line has to come from the battery, ignition, or the starter solenoid. Since the problem goes away when you diconnect at the firewall, I would say start at the solenoid. Just about eveything that comes that far if not all ( not positive ) goes to the solenoid for power. Take of the nut and slowly start taking them of one at a time to see when the .08a draw disappears. Then I would trace that wire back, or look in a wiring diagram and decode the bugger to see where it runs, and start there.

64moneypit · Dec 25, 2004

hmm only after market stuff is a Tachometer and tripple gauge cluster (already disonnected the cluster. no lights to it but oil pressure and temp work.) hmm maybe temp gauge issue?

JB66 · Dec 25, 2004

Where do you have the power coming from for the gauges?

WORTH · Dec 25, 2004

64moneypit said:
hmm only after market stuff is a Tachometer and tripple gauge cluster (already disonnected the cluster. no lights to it but oil pressure and temp work.) hmm maybe temp gauge issue?

Put your meter back on it and have somebody watch it. Unplug the regulator and see if you lose the .8amps. if you don't start pulling fuses, if your lucky what ever is on is running threw a fuse. If still no luck just start disconnecting anything you can think of, eventually you'll have to lose the draw. Good luck, I hate those little gremlins

64moneypit · Dec 25, 2004

well I pulled all fuses again still voltage. disconect starter still got. unplug other wire junction on firewall still got (has coil other wires to relayand something else). when disconecting the regulator field and coil i think no change but when remove battery lose voltage. only thing I think on that wire are ignition switch and lights.
disconnected driver door switch and glove box no change... will try more tomorrow....
how do I remove the ignition switch
thanks

WORTH · Dec 25, 2004

64moneypit said:
well I pulled all fuses again still voltage. disconect starter still got. unplug other wire junction on firewall still got (has coil other wires to relayand something else). when disconecting the regulator field and coil i think no change but when remove battery lose voltage. only thing I think on that wire are ignition switch and lights.
disconnected driver door switch and glove box no change... will try more tomorrow....
how do I remove the ignition switch
thanks

Put the key in and turn to accessory position, then get a paperclip and stick it in the small hole in the front of the switch, beside the key. When you push the paperclip you are pushing a small button that will allow you to turn the key past accessory and the tombler set will come out with the key. Then you can unscrew the front bezel from the switch and the switch will flal out the back of the dash.

64moneypit · Dec 25, 2004

another stupid question.
are there supposed to be dome lights or courtesy lights in a 64.5? I dont have any but its not to say someone didnt put the headliner in overthem
thanks again

JB66 · Dec 25, 2004

I know there's one by the drivers kick panel. There may be one by the pass. kick panel and if there is, there's probably a glove box light, too.

WORTH · Dec 26, 2004

no idea on the courtesy lights, but look in the door jambs, if it has switches, it should have lights

64moneypit · Dec 26, 2004

I am really beginning to hate electrical issues. todays agenda. disconnect starter relay wires (keeping battery and black yellow connected) still issues disconnect all regulator wires still got when black/yellow wires are connected. disconnect coil distributer and relay wires from firewall plug still got. disconnect door switches still got. pull instrument cluster and diconnect all wires. still got disconnect ignition switch still got. disconnect light and winshield washer switches still got... ( all of this with all fuses pulled) got creative and disconnected the main plug bringing power into the inside of the care and only had the black/yellow wire bridged into the car (basically disconnected all components under hood and lighting) still got... when battery reads 11.87 volt I get same between neg terminal and neg lead at .08A. calling local garage tomorrow to schedule work ... tune the carb. find out why gas gauge dont work and electrical drain. calling Roy at Car Classics on dixie highway in Hollywood FL. he's been a wrench on stangs for 25+years in U.S. and England. and thoughts or different stratigy?

WORTH · Dec 26, 2004

64moneypit said:
I am really beginning to hate electrical issues. todays agenda. disconnect starter relay wires (keeping battery and black yellow connected) still issues disconnect all regulator wires still got when black/yellow wires are connected. disconnect coil distributer and relay wires from firewall plug still got. disconnect door switches still got. pull instrument cluster and diconnect all wires. still got disconnect ignition switch still got. disconnect light and winshield washer switches still got... ( all of this with all fuses pulled) got creative and disconnected the main plug bringing power into the inside of the care and only had the black/yellow wire bridged into the car (basically disconnected all components under hood and lighting) still got... when battery reads 11.87 volt I get same between neg terminal and neg lead at .08A. calling local garage tomorrow to schedule work ... tune the carb. find out why gas gauge dont work and electrical drain. calling Roy at Car Classics on dixie highway in Hollywood FL. he's been a wrench on stangs for 25+years in U.S. and England. and thoughts or different stratigy?

Just for the hell of it, pull the battery and wash and dry it, then recheck it, I've had pretty good drains from a dirty battery that was leaking threw the case.

64moneypit · Dec 26, 2004

ok thats almost one of the oddest things I have heard but anything is worth a try.
would another test be connect the neg terminal to the frame. then check for continuity between the positive and chassis? no battery involved?

pabear89 · Dec 26, 2004

Where are the connection from the + side with the Bk/yl?
From not having known where your connection is i will assume your using the Sol stud.
Could be the sol drawing it.

PB

64moneypit · Dec 26, 2004

no no issue with solenoid removed from picture and just connected the bat lead and the bk/y wire..

could always pull the motor, rims and gas tank then cover with gasoline and set it on fire... great way to remove paint, bondo and electrical gremlins. then start from scratch LOL

64moneypit · Dec 28, 2004

well took the car to the shop this am.
got a call from the tech this afternoon.
time to B/slap the step son. come to find out when the rebuilt motor was installed he rewired the tach to a constant power wire and not a switched one so it was draining the battery. other issues found were....
voltage regulator was bad constant 16+volts (at least the generator is good)
the excess voltage burned out the points
vacuum leak at carb and vacuum advance tube on wrong port.
found out need a new sending unit for gas gauge. and he tuned the carb and rehung the exhaust a bit better to quiet a few rattles. so for troubleshooting the electrical and fixing it, vacuum issues, exhaust, tuning, gas gauge issues and charging stuff. with all labor and parts $400. the thing that made him unhappy is I got a full tank of gass and he needs to drain it to change the sending unit.

JB66 · Dec 29, 2004

Don't you just hate aftermarket installations when people don't know what they're doing?

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