Battery relocation kit install questions (any pics)

68 & 00 GT

New Member
May 14, 2003
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HOUSTON TEXAS
OK I ordered this battery relocation kit -
SUM-G1200A Battery Box, Black Plastic, 15 in. Length x 9 in. Width x 10 1/2 in. Height, Each
from here -
http://store.summitracing.com/defau...KeywordSearch&Ntt=battery+relocation&x=8&y=13

When I started looking around I noticed that there are multiple cables under the hood that also go to the (+) terminal, and (-) terminal other than just the main battery cables.

What am I supoosed to do with those cables ? Obviously I can't just run the new long (+) cable from the battery in the trunk to the starter, and just use the new short (-) cable to go form the battery (in the trunk) to the frame under the trunk, and neglect all those other wires that run to the battery terminals while under the hood.

I know it's not track legal. I'll probably get a steel box later (if I don't get kicked off the tarck for other safety violations anyway), but I certainly could use the extra weight transfer to the back tires for now.

Any help I expected this to be simple 'till I saw all the other wires that go to the battery.
Thanks-
 
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I'd kind of like to know this also. I've heard you can connect all the cables to a central lug in the engine compartment, but I think you still have to run the alternator cable all the way back to your master switch in the trunk (if you're putting one in that is).
 
Seen it done, and did it myself (same problem made simple).
From the old battery location:
Cut off the battery terminal loop and ground the black(-) in the engine compartment.
Cut off the positive battery terminal loop and BOLT & SOLDER the existing red(+) wires to the new one from the trunk. Wrap them up real good with shrinkwrap or protective wrap and lots of electrical tape.

Works great for me!
 
holy crap (light turns on). :)

so the negative cables currently on battery don't have to actually be on the (-)battery terminal ? You're saying just ground all those (-) cables where they are to the fender or something in the engine bay ? Then just run the long (+) cable from the battery (now in the trunk) up to the bundle of (+) wires in the engine bay where the (+) battery terminal used to be, connect the all the red cables and then ground the battery in the trunk ?

sounds like an electrical fire :)

is that correct ?

thanks it seemed screwed up after I looked at what I had to work with.
 
I used a circuit breaker to make my connections. I store my car for long periods of time and this makes it really easy to save my battery.
 

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great pics guys :nice:

I think this one explains what I didn't get -
attachment.php


now I can finish this and putting on my new rear shocks, and finally go get some new ET's !

does the hardware, or auto parts stores have all those big @$$ electrical connectors for the cables ?
 
I ordered the Taylor relocation kit which came with most everything I needed. Anything that I needed that did not come with the kit I purchased from a local car audio store.

By the way I ran my cable through the interior of the car, I know some people have run the cable under the car.
 
1of2000 said:
Looks like you gotter now! ;)
thanks God I was like WTF ?

I probably do have all the necessary conectors w/ my kit. There is a bag of hardware I just never made it past WTF to look at the hardware any closer :)

steeda46 said:
By the way I ran my cable through the interior of the car, I know some people have run the cable under the car.

which is better / safer / legal for the track ?

Some say inside is better / safer, some say the opposite - and did you vent your trunk ? If so how ?
 
I didn't vent my trunk, I used a dry cell battery (Optima red top).

I have heard that running under the car is bad because it is exposed the power wire to hazards from the road, on the other hand I personally know of someone who was in a wreck with the battery in the trunk and they had a nice burn line every where the battery cable was located. I used two circuit breakers one in the trunk and one under the hood for extra safety.

I don't think NHRA cares how you run the wire as long as you have an external shut off in case of a wreck or fire. That way the safety workers can kill the power to your car.
 
vent? hmm, I know my old stang aint airtight! ;)
track? mine doesn't even look. your word is enough!
safety? i hope to god i never put her in the sand! ;)

I am sure there are good and bad ways...Which ever way you run it, just make damn sure it's not gonna rub or get gouged by anything sharp... Use cable tie-downs underneath the car and zip-ties inside. run it once and check it twice!