Battery Relocation Kit Questions

94GTLaserRC · May 12, 2008

Is it better to buy a "kit" that has everything you need, or to find the things separate? AND....do you need one SPECIFIC for 94/95 stangs, or UNIVERSAL?

Also, Where is a good place to buy what you need? Looks are ok for this one ( ) but not that critical.

Thanks
RC

parchisi · May 12, 2008

I suppose it just comes down to whether or not you want to put it together yourself or not. Its probably much cheaper to do it yourself, and if the batt needs to be sealed, then I don't imagine it being too dificult to fab up your own box. I got my battery relocation kit with my procharger, and it just seemed like a pretty generic deal.

Venom351R · May 13, 2008

summit sells good boxs, thats where mine came from.

94GTLaserRC · May 13, 2008

I guess I wasnt too clear on the actual question.....I "assumed" I needed to buy the box, and I would ONLY put the batter back there sealed. I meant buying the other stuff like cables, connectors, etc....if it's better to find a place that has all the necessary items. What should I expect to pay for a whole kit?

Thanks
RC

95cbr331 · May 13, 2008

RC it depends on how tou want to do it...
Do you want it track legal?

-then your going to need a throw off switch and about 25ft of a 2ga cable, so your alternator turns off when the switch is thrown. My setup looks awesome, just like "Dan's"(forgot his screen name but i know it was Dan something) mounted in the trunk lid under liscenseplate
this route will add probably 50-100$ because cable prices vary from location and type and also what switch you get.

Also are you going to ground the battery to the block? this will add about 20 more feet of 1/0 cable but i think its worth it.

i'll help give you an estimate, once you respond

94GTLaserRC · May 13, 2008

95cbr331 said:
RC it depends on how tou want to do it...
Do you want it track legal?

-then your going to need a throw off switch and about 25ft of a 2ga cable, so your alternator turns off when the switch is thrown. My setup looks awesome, just like "Dan's"(forgot his screen name but i know it was Dan something) mounted in the trunk lid under liscenseplate
this route will add probably 50-100$ because cable prices vary from location and type and also what switch you get.

Also are you going to ground the battery to the block? this will add about 20 more feet of 1/0 cable but i think its worth it.

i'll help give you an estimate, once you respond

First...how does anyone know if it's track legal.?

Second..I rarely go to the track, but I may.

Third...my order of importance: Safety, looks, price. If it's more to do it the RIGHT WAY, then that's what I want....Working on a "one-bad" type project car now, so I will go all out (within reason of course)

Thanks
RC

legalize420 · May 13, 2008

when you go through tech at the track they will not let you run if its not sealed and vented outside the cabin, along with the kill switch. i think the only way around having a sealed box is if you have a dry cell battery.

urban96 · May 13, 2008

also i suggest investing in high quality ring terminals for the ends of the wires, makes it much easier and looks 1000X better

94GTLaserRC · May 13, 2008

urban96 said:
also i suggest investing in high quality ring terminals for the ends of the wires, makes it much easier and looks 1000X better

Whatever that means Still have no idea what to purchase.
THanks
RC

urban96 · May 13, 2008

ring terminals

battery terminal

95BlueStallion · May 13, 2008

I bought a Summit universal kit with a sealed box. Then the seperate items are a Taylor switch that allows me cut current to the alternator, and an extra 20 ft of wire to run from the switch to the alternator. The kit came with 15 or 20 ft of wire to run from the switch to the starter solenoid. I still need a couple ring connectors. I plan on grounding the battery to the quad shock bracket, and then upgrading the ground from the frame to block using 1 gauge wire. All I have accomplished so far is mounting the box in the trunk though, so I cant tell you how well it worked yet...

Venom351R · May 13, 2008

RC-

If you do go to the tack you will need the cut off switch. When they see a battery in the trunk they then ask where your cut off switch is. I did not have one for mine at first and they would not let me race the first time I took it to the track so I had to get a cut off switch installed.

If you buy a box it should come with everything you need for the install.

http://store.summitracing.com/egnse...t=battery+box&searchinresults=false&N=700+115

94GTLaserRC · May 13, 2008

Right now I am so cofused I dont know which way to point my pecker
View attachment 317965

Cut off switches, grounding to frame or chassis, ring terminals
What the heck do you need a cut off switch for...????
I give up!

94GTLaserRC · May 13, 2008

95cbr331 said:
RC it depends on how tou want to do it...
Do you want it track legal?

-then your going to need a throw off switch and about 25ft of a 2ga cable, so your alternator turns off when the switch is thrown. My setup looks awesome, just like "Dan's"(forgot his screen name but i know it was Dan something) mounted in the trunk lid under liscenseplate
this route will add probably 50-100$ because cable prices vary from location and type and also what switch you get.

Also are you going to ground the battery to the block? this will add about 20 more feet of 1/0 cable but i think its worth it.

i'll help give you an estimate, once you respond

Ok..I responded...is there ANYWHERE that has a step-by-step set of instructions for retards like me ? --like the TB and window bushing how to's?

Ive been researching, and all I find are people arguing over what's better. I know Im no genius at tech, but This is something I dont want to screw up.

Thanks
RC

urban96 · May 13, 2008

here.. should help visualize what you need to do

94GTLaserRC · May 14, 2008

That diagram does help me understand it, but are there any actual photos of this? I thought A lot of guys have done this which should mean lots of pics. Also, I tried looking for install instructions, but they said something about connecting the old cables to something. Im still not sure on the "purpose" of a cutoff switch in the trunk or what that front gound cable is for.

RC

divit250r · May 14, 2008

94GTLaserRC said:
That diagram does help me understand it, but are there any actual photos of this? I thought A lot of guys have done this which should mean lots of pics. Also, I tried looking for install instructions, but they said something about connecting the old cables to something. Im still not sure on the "purpose" of a cutoff switch in the trunk or what that front gound cable is for.

RC

I haven't done this, but the basic circuit layout is pretty simple. The front ground is because the engine needs to be grounded to the chassis. The cutoff switch is there because the track workers want to be able to kill electrical power to the car in case there is a fire, crash, etc... with the battery in the trunk, they usually need a key which they might not be able to get in an emergency. The external switch makes it easy to kill the engine and any electrical accessories.

Scott

94GTLaserRC · May 14, 2008

divit250r said:
I haven't done this, but the basic circuit layout is pretty simple. The front ground is because the engine needs to be grounded to the chassis. The cutoff switch is there because the track workers want to be able to kill electrical power to the car in case there is a fire, crash, etc... with the battery in the trunk, they usually need a key which they might not be able to get in an emergency. The external switch makes it easy to kill the engine and any electrical accessories.

Scott

1. There is no cutoff switch when the battery is in the front....dont you want to cut off power then too?

2. It's not so much the diagram that I dont understand...good diagram and straight forward....it is the wiring types, reasons, connections, etc. I dont have tools to weld or solder, and even more importantly is I dont know how to do either. I dont want to connect the wrong fittings to the wrong types of wires.

Thanks
RC

divit250r · May 14, 2008

94GTLaserRC said:
1. There is no cutoff switch when the battery is in the front....dont you want to cut off power then too?

Thanks
RC

Yes you do, but generally you can pop the hood without a key. I don't think it's necessary for a street car, obviously, but with the track comes certain rules that everyone has to live by in order to race. Just like wearing a helmet after breaking a certain ET.

95cbr331 · May 14, 2008

Sorry Rc, had work last night.

The cutoff switch's purpose is to cut power in case of an emergency and to kill the engine. When this is done, in order to kill all power and to keep the car from running off the alternator, the alt output should be conected to the "on" side of the switch so the alt doesnt feed the cars poer supply and keep it running if the switch is thrown. This is required by the track but it also adds a since of "trickness." will post picsof how i did it.

You dont need to weld or solder, you can use crimp style ring terminals, such as the ones from an audio store or the copper lugs style from schucks or any hardware store. to crimp them you can pick up a tool from a welding store that has a die and you strike with a hammer or just tighten it down in a vise.

I would recommend welding wire/cable, its very flexible and easier to route compared to most cables because of the higher strand count.Also it resists heat and abrasion better.Check local welding shops and check the price per foot, the cable is more expensive but worth it.

Do you have a sealed battery?

we'll figure this out for you. Alot of it can be prefernce and $$ depending

Battery Relocation Kit Questions

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