I used 0 gauge,welding cable and this terminal type
I used that moroso style box years ago on a Chevelle. Nothing wrong with it,
a bit large if you have a hatch. I use taylor box"s myself.
For the ground,i have a bolt welded to the left rear roll bar mounting plate,
with a terminal like you linked. I think I have a Moroso shut off switch.
I used that moroso style box years ago on a Chevelle. Nothing wrong with it,
a bit large if you have a hatch. I use taylor box"s myself.
For the ground,i have a bolt welded to the left rear roll bar mounting plate,
with a terminal like you linked. I think I have a Moroso shut off switch.
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Your waiting money running a negative cable from the battery to the block in the back. There is a nice place in the back to either drill and bolt or weld a stud to the subframe. Do the same to the front. You will be more then good with that setup. That is what I did on my car, I welded a 7/16" stud to the rear sub frame through the floor that was able to be accessed from the hatch area. Then I ran a ground from the block to the front sub frame, I still maintain the factory ground to the head.
No spool, but maybe better tires. A local racer told me to try Toyo Proxes TQ
And I will eventually looking for maybe 70/30 struts or some form of coil overs and maybe a tubular K
Hmmm. So this is not really different than what the typical kits suggest, only you add another hefty neg cable from block to frame up front? I can see the improvement there.
However, a full length neg cable would eliminate two additional connection points, right? And your method would only eliminate buying a few extra feet of cable, right? Buying a few more feet of cable is worth eliminating two additional connection points in my opinion. Good quality work can certainly reduce failures in electrical systems, but when failures do happen, it’s usually at connections.
I'm all about lack of connections but also realize voltage drop over distance especially with a starter. I found when I did mine the positive cable ran nicely through the rear sub frame to eliminate suspension interference. There was just no other room to add another cable and do it cleanly. I also added studs on the external subframes to route it along the side there.
If you use a plastic battery box, cut a piece of 16 gauge steel to fit inside the bottom of the box to reinforce the mounting. Use a piece of stainless steel or a good acid resistant paint on the steel and bolt it to the floor That will help prevent the battery from relocating itself if you get in a collision. You don't want the battery from become a UFO...
OK thanks, I see the smaller size now. Still deciding but I think the black box might look better in my interior with it's other black trim.
No offense taken. They are cheap. Cheaper by $25. Plus out of sight 99.9 percent of the time.
Ok so I have been wanting to do this relocation myself. How much of a pain in the butt is this to do and how much extra stuff is needed. I watched houseofdulas YouTube vid on this. Seems like I can do it, he ran some huge cables. I like the Taylor box over the plastic box. Here is what he used. Do you need such big gauge or can you run 4 gauge? Thanks guys.
I did this to my car recently. I ran my cables through the interior. Here's the thread if you car to read through for ideas. Turned out great for me. I've had no troubles.
rear mount batt - cable routing
I'm shopping for fuse and fuse holders for the main positive battery cable since I'm planning my rear mount battery in the 92 hatch. I like one of these two holders so far but not sure which one I'll go for. Do any of you have an opinion on these or maybe a suggestion for a different one? I'd...