So I want a trunk mounted battery relocation kit not only to clean up the engine compartment, but also for weight distribution/balance. I'm seeing prices anywhere from $99-$200+, what's everyone using?
Battery Relocation Kits, Talk To Me Goose...
- Thread starter bird_dog0347
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
Hah. Mine is strapped into the spare tire well. I'll reserve pictures for my credibility's sake.
Lol me to......
Whatever you buy make sure it uses welding cable 4awg or larger and you need a ground that goes all the way to the engine block. just grounding it in the trunk is not good enough
Whatever you buy make sure it uses welding cable 4awg or larger and you need a ground that goes all the way to the engine block. just grounding it in the trunk is not good enough
Yeah, the one I saw on Summit for $99 was in a plastic case (ok by me) and had 2ga wire to the engine but only a few feet to the trunk floor... Needs to be longer I think to the engine as you already mentioned although I'm sure adding it to the trunk floor too wouldn't be bad.
HotFox
15 Year Member
My ground is to a welded Bolt on the floor. I have added 2 grounds off the front of the engine. One off the front aluminum cover and one right to the engine block.
Buy some welding cable for a ground to run up to the block. I beat my head on a pole for almost a year with hot start issues. ran ground never had a problem again.
I have the summit kit. For the money, it is good. my father nlaw has basically the same kit, but with welding wire. it is much easier to work with and bend. the summit kit has large strand wire, and it's not as bendable.
If you want to get on a sanctioned track, you will need a cut-off switch as well.
Joe
If you want to get on a sanctioned track, you will need a cut-off switch as well.
Joe
Some help wiring the wiring before you get started...
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.
One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.
The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green wires have a high quality ground..
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice.
For a battery cut off switch, see http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225
is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.
Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring.
There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.
Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.
The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.
Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire. Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs. Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.
How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies a turn on signal to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Turn the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.
The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.
Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg
Rear mounted battery ground wiring. Follow this plan and you will have zero
ground problems.
One 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from battery negative post to a clean shiny spot on the chassis near the battery. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt it down to make the rear ground. Use a 1 gauge or 1/0 gauge wire from the rear ground bolt to a clean shiny spot on the block.
One 4 gauge wire from the block where you connected the battery ground wire to the chassis ground where the battery was mounted up front. Use a 5/16” bolt and bolt down the 4 gauge engine to chassis ground, make sure that it the metal around the bolt is clean & shiny. This is the alternator power ground.
The computer has a dedicated power ground wire with a cylindrical quick connect (about 2 ½”long by 1” diameter. It comes out of the wiring harness near the ignition coil & starter solenoid (or relay). Be sure to bolt it to the chassis ground in the same place as you bolted the alternator power ground. This is an
absolute don’t overlook it item for EFI cars
Note: The quick disconnect may have fallen victim to damage or removal by a previous owner. However, it is still of utmost importance that the black/green wires have a high quality ground..
Picture courtesy timewarped1972
Crimp or even better, solder the lugs on the all the wire. The local auto stereo shop will have them if the auto parts store doesn't. Use some heat shrink tubing to cover the lugs and make things look nice.
For a battery cut off switch, see http://www.moroso.com/catalog/categorydisplay.asp?catcode=42225
is the switch http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images/74102_inst.pdf is the installation instructions.
Use the super duty switch and the following tech note to wire it and you will
be good to go.
Use the Moroso plan for the alternator wiring and you risk a fire. The 10 gauge wire they recommend is even less adequate that the stock Mustang wiring.
There is a solution, but it will require about 40' of 18 gauge green wire.
Wire the battery to the two 1/2" posts as shown in the diagram.
The alternator requires a different approach. On the small alternator plug there is a green wire. It is the sense lead that turns the regulator on when the ignition switch is in the run position. Cut the green wire and solder the 40' of green wire between the two pieces. Use some heat shrink to cover the splices. See http://fordfuelinjection.com/?p=7 for some excellent help on soldering & using heat shrink tubing.
Run the green wire back to the Moroso switch and cut off the excess wire. Try to run the green wire inside the car and protect it from getting cut or chaffed. Crimp a 18 gauge ring terminal (red is 18 gauge color code for the crimp on terminals) on each wire. Bolt one ring terminal to each of the 3/16" studs. Do not add the jumper between the 1/2" stud and the 3/16" stud as shown it the
Moroso diagram.
How it works:
The green wire is the ignition on sense feed to the regulator. It supplies a turn on signal to the regulator when the ignition switch is in the Run position. Turn the Moroso switch to off, and the sense voltage goes away, the voltage regulator shuts off and the alternator quits making power.
The fuse & wiring in the following diagram are for a 3G alternator. The stock alternator uses a dark green fuse link wire that connects to 2 black/orange wires. Always leave them connected to the starter solenoid even if you have a 3G alternator.
See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/ Everyone should bookmark this site.
Ignition switch wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif
Fuel, alternator, A/C and ignition wiring
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif
Complete computer, actuator & sensor wiring diagram for 88-91 Mass Air Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif
Vacuum diagram 89-93 Mustangs
http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/mustangFoxFordVacuumDiagram.jpg
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
I use a Taylor aluminum battery box and used 0 welding cable for the + on mine from the battery to the solenoid with an inline 150 amp fuse mounted in the trunk. I also used 0 cable for the - from the battery to the quad shock mounting bracket, I used P clamps on all the cable and also took the existing negative battery cable and ran that from the block to the frame. I have zero issues with charging, starting, etc.
So I've been looking at kits and thinking I can't find one with welding wire AND more than 3' of ground wire so I might as well buy a box and cable separately and piece it together myself.
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
Because some people have better luck than others, ground all the way to the front is just whats needed for some. JMO
They make a grounding kit now, just recently read about it in one of my rags, will look and see iff I can find it. Like a box look'n thingy.
Heard of grounding to shock mount before, sounds like a good place.
They make a grounding kit now, just recently read about it in one of my rags, will look and see iff I can find it. Like a box look'n thingy.
Heard of grounding to shock mount before, sounds like a good place.
The only time I had an issue was a hot start, like when you run into the store for 5-10mins...
Car wouldn't turn over fast enough to start. once I added the ground wire up to the block all was good.
Now maybe I'm just unlucky but my car has an insane electrical system. 250A alt, 2 trunk mounted batteries, ground straps everywhere.
But it still wouldn't turn that damn starter fast enough.
Car wouldn't turn over fast enough to start. once I added the ground wire up to the block all was good.
Now maybe I'm just unlucky but my car has an insane electrical system. 250A alt, 2 trunk mounted batteries, ground straps everywhere.
But it still wouldn't turn that damn starter fast enough.
I don't have a horse in this race,
but there are a couple things you can do,I don't know what is included in the relocation kits but there used to be something called a 'start'em up kit'. Don't remember who made it but there always is google, another is american autowire's grounding kit. It's actually for fiberglass bodies like t buckets and high boys, looks like more than what we would need for our junk,er cars.
I personally would just run the cable to the frame in back and connect that to the block with appropriate size cable, less complex. I figure if it's a track car just hook one to the shock brace and then block to frame would work, you are just starting the car, no pw pdl ac and not got no big box bang'n out vanilla ice tunes.
but there are a couple things you can do,I don't know what is included in the relocation kits but there used to be something called a 'start'em up kit'. Don't remember who made it but there always is google, another is american autowire's grounding kit. It's actually for fiberglass bodies like t buckets and high boys, looks like more than what we would need for our junk,er cars. I personally would just run the cable to the frame in back and connect that to the block with appropriate size cable, less complex. I figure if it's a track car just hook one to the shock brace and then block to frame would work, you are just starting the car, no pw pdl ac and not got no big box bang'n out vanilla ice tunes.
I just did a relocation in my '91 coupe. I used a Taylor relocation kit. It comes with the aluminum box, cable, terminals, hold down, breather, etc. I also installed a Moroso cut off switch. I relocated the starter solenoid to the trunk as well and ran a 1ga welding cable to a power distribution block on the inside of the fender and tucked the existing wires behind the fender to clean up that area and have a batter place to mount the MSD stuff.
I bought extra 1ga welding cable for all of the long runs and extra grounds, and only used the 2ga cable supplied in the kit for the solenoid/cutoff switch connections. I bought copper lugs and a bunch of heat shrink tubing and a cable crimper for all of the cable lugs. I also used a handful of cable clamps to keep everything secure, rubber grommets wherever the cables had to pass through the floor, etc.
I didn't have to drop the tank to mount the battery box, which bolts through the floor. One of the all thread mounting studs ran through an original hole in the frame rail, and I reamed the other hole to a slight oval shape and was able to fish the all thread stud up over the tank and through the floor.
I bought extra 1ga welding cable for all of the long runs and extra grounds, and only used the 2ga cable supplied in the kit for the solenoid/cutoff switch connections. I bought copper lugs and a bunch of heat shrink tubing and a cable crimper for all of the cable lugs. I also used a handful of cable clamps to keep everything secure, rubber grommets wherever the cables had to pass through the floor, etc.
I didn't have to drop the tank to mount the battery box, which bolts through the floor. One of the all thread mounting studs ran through an original hole in the frame rail, and I reamed the other hole to a slight oval shape and was able to fish the all thread stud up over the tank and through the floor.
Been a while since I asked about this, but I went ahead and bought a Taylor battery box, 25' of red 1/0 welding cable, 25' of black 1/0 welding cable, a 150 amp type III circuit breaker, and 1/0 eye terminal lug rings. It was certainly more expensive overall than the kit that LMR sells but it comes with enough 1/0 AWG to never have to worry about the cables or not getting enough juice to the bay. I do not plan on drag racing it at all so no need to buy a remote on/off switch at this time.
Ok I'll revive this thread. I'm about to pull the trigger on the stuff I need to move the battery to the back of my LX Hatch. I see the kits with the aluminum boxes but they dont include full length neg cable and they're like $170. I want a neg cable all the way back to the block. I figure I might pick and buy my own pieces. I'd focus on better cables and connections and less on fancy aluminum box. For these choices linked below I'm in at less than $90. I know I'd still need clamps at the battery posts. I have the tools and means to solder and crimp the eyelets. Some heavy duty zip ties for routing cable are already on hand.
But what do you think of these choices below?
Cables
Eyelets
Marine Box
But what do you think of these choices below?
Cables
Eyelets
Marine Box
Similar threads
