Battery Relocation Kits, Talk To Me Goose...

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I used 0 gauge,welding cable and this terminal type
I used that moroso style box years ago on a Chevelle. Nothing wrong with it,
a bit large if you have a hatch. I use taylor box"s myself.
For the ground,i have a bolt welded to the left rear roll bar mounting plate,
with a terminal like you linked. I think I have a Moroso shut off switch.
 
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Your waiting money running a negative cable from the battery to the block in the back. There is a nice place in the back to either drill and bolt or weld a stud to the subframe. Do the same to the front. You will be more then good with that setup. That is what I did on my car, I welded a 7/16" stud to the rear sub frame through the floor that was able to be accessed from the hatch area. Then I ran a ground from the block to the front sub frame, I still maintain the factory ground to the head.
 
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Your waiting money running a negative cable from the battery to the block in the back. There is a nice place in the back to either drill and bolt or weld a stud to the subframe. Do the same to the front. You will be more then good with that setup. That is what I did on my car, I welded a 7/16" stud to the rear sub frame through the floor that was able to be accessed from the hatch area. Then I ran a ground from the block to the front sub frame, I still maintain the factory ground to the head.

Hmmm. So this is not really different than what the typical kits suggest, only you add another hefty neg cable from block to frame up front? I can see the improvement there.

However, a full length neg cable would eliminate two additional connection points, right? And your method would only eliminate buying a few extra feet of cable, right? Buying a few more feet of cable is worth eliminating two additional connection points in my opinion. Good quality work can certainly reduce failures in electrical systems, but when failures do happen, it’s usually at connections.
 
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I'm all about lack of connections but also realize voltage drop over distance especially with a starter. I found when I did mine the positive cable ran nicely through the rear sub frame to eliminate suspension interference. There was just no other room to add another cable and do it cleanly. I also added studs on the external subframes to route it along the side there.
 
If you use a plastic battery box, cut a piece of 16 gauge steel to fit inside the bottom of the box to reinforce the mounting. Use a piece of stainless steel or a good acid resistant paint on the steel and bolt it to the floor That will help prevent the battery from relocating itself if you get in a collision. You don't want the battery from become a UFO...
 
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Taylor box powdercoated . 2/0 ga welding cable . Solid state battery cut off .

Right lower corner of the plate in the screw hole is the switch.

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Ok I'll revive this thread. I'm about to pull the trigger on the stuff I need to move the battery to the back of my LX Hatch. I see the kits with the aluminum boxes but they dont include full length neg cable and they're like $170. I want a neg cable all the way back to the block. I figure I might pick and buy my own pieces. I'd focus on better cables and connections and less on fancy aluminum box. For these choices linked below I'm in at less than $90. I know I'd still need clamps at the battery posts. I have the tools and means to solder and crimp the eyelets. Some heavy duty zip ties for routing cable are already on hand.

But what do you think of these choices below?

Cables

Eyelets

Marine Box
Figure we’ll stop clogging the other thread . 48100 Taylor is 10 inches tall so that’s an inch shorter already

48200 is 8.875 inches tall . I think that’s the one you’d want and that I have in mine .
 
Figure we’ll stop clogging the other thread . 48100 Taylor is 10 inches tall so that’s an inch shorter already

48200 is 8.875 inches tall . I think that’s the one you’d want and that I have in mine .

OK thanks, I see the smaller size now. Still deciding but I think the black box might look better in my interior with it's other black trim.
 
Ok so I have been wanting to do this relocation myself. How much of a pain in the butt is this to do and how much extra stuff is needed. I watched houseofdulas YouTube vid on this. Seems like I can do it, he ran some huge cables. I like the Taylor box over the plastic box. Here is what he used. Do you need such big gauge or can you run 4 gauge? Thanks guys.
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I did this to my car recently. I ran my cables through the interior. Here's the thread if you car to read through for ideas. Turned out great for me. I've had no troubles.

 
I did this to my car recently. I ran my cables through the interior. Here's the thread if you car to read through for ideas. Turned out great for me. I've had no troubles.

Cool man thanks I’ll give this a read.
 
Ok so I have been wanting to do this relocation myself. How much of a pain in the butt is this to do and how much extra stuff is needed. I watched houseofdulas YouTube vid on this. Seems like I can do it, he ran some huge cables. I like the Taylor box over the plastic box. Here is what he used. Do you need such big gauge or can you run 4 gauge? Thanks guys.
ADE43465-5631-4231-8297-5D52CF84DBB3.png
62BDC7B5-909F-4036-AAB1-9960CCA49464.png
C48F8CDF-AC7D-49A5-83CD-1A38A20AE1A5.png
To answer your question as far as cable size . Remember especially on a full street car with all the working accessories you really can’t go wrong with over kill. A 4ga wire is not enough. 1/0 or 2/0 is a great choice . The longer the run the less amperage it can carry , so your 4 gauge becomes inadequate at that point .

I have 2/0 from my battery to a junction in my trunk to power my amplifiers and some other stuff . From that junction it’s ran under the carpet to the grommet in the firewall for the cruise control.

Then to one more junction block to replace the starter sol . This powers the lights , windows , etc . I replaced the starter sol. with just a relay because I have a mini starter . From that junction I have 2awg welding cable to my alternator with a circuit breaker and also 2 awg to my starter .
I have a solid state battery switch as well . So I have a small push pull right at the corner of my plate. The nice thing with this setup is no heavy cable to the switch itself . Just uses a 12 ga wire to trigger the heat sink / solid state and that’s it . With this setup you could run multiple switches and have one even upfront to kill the battery

here’s some in progress pics of when I was doing it to give you an idea .
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