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Bbf Brake Booster Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter driftguy2008
  • Start date Start date Nov 11, 2012

driftguy2008

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Nov 11, 2012
#1
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #1
hey guys i have a 93 foxbody with a 429 big block and the brake suck in it. so i want to install a brake booster if its possible anyone on this forum have a big block foxbody with a brake booster.
 

Noobz347

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#2
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #2
Before you go throwing parts at it, maybe you could describe the brake system that's currently on the car before we focus just on the booster?
 

driftguy2008

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#3
  • Nov 11, 2012
  • #3
stock brakes all my dads friend did was remove the booster and install an adapter that removes the booster.
 

Noobz347

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#4
  • Nov 11, 2012
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Yikes... so you're running manual brakes with a master cylinder intended to be used with a brake booster. I'm guessing that the booster was removed due to clearance issues?
 

driftguy2008

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Nov 12, 2012
#5
  • Nov 12, 2012
  • #5
yea when my dads friend built it in 2006 he used his old mud truck motor and just threw it in with the summit BBF swap kit. and what didnt fit he just took of the foxbody, and it doesn't help with it originally being a 2.3 so the brakes already suck for a V8 swap but this is what the engine bay looks like.
 

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Noobz347

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  • Nov 12, 2012
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I honestly don't think that just installing a booster is going to give you what you need. It will only change the problem for you. Currently, I'm guessing that you have a really hard brake pedal and stomping on it with both feet just makes you bite off your fingernails until the damned thing finally slows.

Installing a brake booster with those brakes will have a similar effect but it will be brake fade. What I mean is that you'll get a false sense of security out of the first couple applications then nothing.

I recommend that at minimum, you step up 87 (I think it is) and up brakes. You can still keep it manual if you like, so long as you match it with the correct master cylinder (one that is designed to be a manual master cylinder).

Oh... and wash the damned thing!
 

7991LXnSHO

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#7
  • Nov 12, 2012
  • #7
Don't wash it, the dirt increases air resistance and slows it down. A good wax will make it slip through the air better!

Seriously, you need a set up for manual brakes. Besides what Noobz347 said, some cars change where the rod attaches to the arm for better mechanical advantage. But I do not know if this is the case in a Mustang. But be prepared to change the linkage push bar from the arm to the master cylinder too. I would hope it is in the kit.
 

Mustang5L5

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#8
  • Nov 12, 2012
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7991LXnSHO said:
Seriously, you need a set up for manual brakes. Besides what Noobz347 said, some cars change where the rod attaches to the arm for better mechanical advantage. But I do not know if this is the case in a Mustang. But be prepared to change the linkage push bar from the arm to the master cylinder too. I would hope it is in the kit.
Click to expand...

That is the case. Early Mustangs with mechanical brakes had a different brake arm to change the leverage point. If you want to continue running manual brake,s you'll need to source some brake parts specific to manual brakes in a Mustang. The master cylinder will need to change as well.

Off the top of my head, i beleive an early mustang 7/8" bore MC with the associated brake pedal will be what you need. Finding a brake pedal is a different story. There may be aftermarket options as well. Maximum Motorsports is one lead. Be prepared to fork over some $$$ though
 
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driftguy2008

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#9
  • Nov 12, 2012
  • #9
i dont want manual brakes, how can i convert it back to factory i have a 88 parts car i can take the mc & booster off im thinking if i change my valve covers to get some space back but im unsure.
 

ratio411

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#10
  • Nov 12, 2012
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The 'old school' method of gaining manual brake useability is to move the pin on the brake pedal arm to a postition with more leverage.
Ford even did it, and many of their vehicles that were available with power brakes as an option, instead of standard, had multiple holes to put the brake arm pin into depending on power or manual brakes (some cases the pedals were different part numbers, but the only difference was the placement of the pin). If you move the pin higher up the pedal arm a bit, it will give you the leverage to make it feel like the manual brakes are plenty suitable for your car.
 

Noobz347

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  • Nov 12, 2012
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driftguy2008 said:
i dont want manual brakes, how can i convert it back to factory i have a 88 parts car i can take the mc & booster off im thinking if i change my valve covers to get some space back but im unsure.
Click to expand...

I do not consider the OEM 4 cylinder brake setup to be a viable option.
 

ratio411

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#12
  • Nov 12, 2012
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On the older Stangs, they use a Geo Metro brake booster in tight spots.
You might try to source a tiny booster that will either bolt directly on, or require very few mods to do so.
Just an idea. I don't know for sure, but it is something I wouldn't be afraid to try.
There is also a Ford that has a tiny booster, but it is not as easily installed on the 'classic' (60s-70s) Fords as the Geo booster. I think it was an Escort?

Something to look into if you want power brakes.
 

driftguy2008

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#13
  • Nov 12, 2012
  • #13
So the geo metro & a classic ford booster may work?
 

ratio411

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#14
  • Nov 12, 2012
  • #14
Oh, and there are some newer model cars that use 'hydroboost' brakes that people use for tight spots.
They use the power steering pump to assist the brakes, instead of vacuum. Good for big cams too.
Cobras and some Lincoln/Mercury cars used the HB, and it is tiny. Just has hoses run from the back of the MC to the PS pump.
 

ratio411

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#15
  • Nov 12, 2012
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driftguy2008 said:
So the geo metro & a classic ford booster may work?
Click to expand...
I said the classic guys that convert to power brakes in tight applications use tiny boosters sourced from other cars like the Geo Metro.
I have no earthly idea if the Fox bodies have the same options, it was just a thought that would require more checking. I wouldn't be afraid to try, but that's just me. If the bolt holes lined up, and the booster was small enough, I'd 'try' it myself, but it will take alot of personal searching and measuring unless you can find someone else that has done the leg work for you.

Not only do you have to worry about the firewall bolt holes lining up, but also the MC bolt holes.
I believe the holes on the Metro booster are spaced correctly for the classic cars, but need the holes enlarged. Things like that is what you will have to contend with to find a suitable donor.
 

driftguy2008

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Nov 12, 2012
#16
  • Nov 12, 2012
  • #16
my dads friend said he read somewhere in a old magazine 2006ish that they swapped a 460 into a 85lx and they used a 93 cobra booster and it fits but barley. you cant adjust the driver side valves but you cant take the valve cover off but its a PITA.
 

Mustang5L5

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#17
  • Nov 13, 2012
  • #17
93 Cobra booster is much bigger than the OEM stock booster. If you can't fit a stock OEM booster in now, you sure as hell won't get a Cobra booster in.


Is that an original 4-banger? So you are running 10" front brakes and rear drums? With manual brakes?

I did some googling and found some good leads.
http://www.460ford.com/forum/showthread.php?p=1039468
 

driftguy2008

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Nov 13, 2012
#18
  • Nov 13, 2012
  • #18
Yea it was a 4 banger with a 9" rear in the back drums, and that my thread I forgot I made that. I already have an adapter like the one guy is sugesting, doesn't hydrobooster run off powersteering pump?
 

ratio411

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#19
  • Nov 13, 2012
  • #19
driftguy2008 said:
doesn't hydrobooster run off powersteering pump?
Click to expand...
Yes
 

Mustang5L5

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#20
  • Nov 14, 2012
  • #20
Unless you swap the pedal out for one with a revised ratio, or change the MC...just using the adapter alone will give you a bad result as you've seen.

You either need to research using a different booster, or investing in a proper manual setup (matching MC and brake pedal assey).
 
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