BBK adjustable FPR leak

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Today I tried to install my brand new BBK adjustable fuel pressure regulator but the damn thing would keep seeping fuel from where it bolts onto the injector rail. It has new o-rings and comes with a gasket. I tried installing it with and without the included gasket and the result was the same. I made sure that the o-rings were on properly each time but no luck. :livid:
I got so pissed off in the end I gave up and reinstalled the stock regulator which, fortunately, doesn't leak at all. I'd really like to reinstall the BBK again but only if I can figure out why it won't seal properly on the injector rail. Does anyone have any ideas?
As if that wasn't bad enough, my Summit Racing fuel pressure gauge (the one they recommend for the BBK-1707 regulator) won't install properly on the BBK regulator either because it fouls on the intake manifold. I could mount it on the Schrader valve instead but I don't know which adapter to buy. The gauge thread is 1/8" NPT male.

 

[Methodical]

First of all you need the 1/16" x 1/8" NPT adapter for the fuel rail.

Why do you need the AFPR?

 

[R.J.]

Return it and get a Kirban. When I finally got my BBk to stop leaking I realized it allows all of your fuel pressure to instantly bleed out when you turn the car off. This makes you have to leave your key in ON for about 15sec before you start the car or it will not start. The kirban is a better piece and holds fuel pressure much better.

 

[grngt50]

Return it and get a Kirban. When I finally got my BBk to stop leaking I realized it allows all of your fuel pressure to instantly bleed out when you turn the car off. This makes you have to leave your key in ON for about 15sec before you start the car or it will not start. The kirban is a better piece and holds fuel pressure much better.

x2...........I had the BBK for over a year and it was the biggest POS ever! Even the reps at BBK and Brothers Performance told me they had lots of problems with them.

-James

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Mmmm. I wish I knew that in the first place. I bought mine from Summit Racing. I live a long way from the USA though so it'll be a real PITA to ship it back. The funny thing was that I had no problem starting the engine (even with the fuel pressure bleed down) but the constant seeping was a real concern (risk of fuel igniting and having an underhood fire).
No such problem with the stock regulator, but my engine starts to ping from 4100rpm upwards at WOT (timing at 10 degrees) in 3rd gear and I reckon that with all the breathing enhancements that I've done, that the engine may be leaning out. That's why I wanted an AFPR especially as I don't plan to do an H/C/I swap any time soon.

 

[Methodical]

... but my engine starts to ping from 4100rpm upwards at WOT (timing at 10 degrees) in 3rd gear and I reckon that with all the breathing enhancements that I've done, that the engine may be leaning out. That's why I wanted an AFPR especially as I don't plan to do an H/C/I swap any time soon.

There has been some articles about AFPR and our cars. Our computer adapts to different fuel requirements and therefore will negate any increase in fuel pressure via injector pulsewidth. Basically what I am saying is no matter how high you adjust fuel pressure the computer will compensate (adapt) to get it back to the AFR it commands and therefore renders the AFPR useless. You are better off with the stock regulator and getting a dyno tune to work out the gremlins. Use the money to buy a gauge if you don't already have one. I just removed my AFPR and installed a stock regulator because with the TwEECer all parameters must be stock, ie 38psi, 10* timing etc. Read the article below and you will understand what I speak of.


Here is a link to some good reading that better explains what I said: http://www.mustangworks.com/index.cfm/page_id/3/content_id/336

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

What you're saying is basically correct except that if you add a lot of airflow-enhancing mods, the duty cycle of the stock 19lb injectors may already be maxed out and the engine computer may be unable to maintain the required rich AFR at WOT. I believe that raising the fuel pressure with the AFPR will increase fuel injector flow enough to allow the engine computer to dial back the injector duty cycle below maximum at WOT and leave some headroom.

 

[Methodical]

What you're saying is basically correct except that if you add a lot of airflow-enhancing mods, the duty cycle of the stock 19lb injectors may already be maxed out and the engine computer may be unable to maintain the required rich AFR at WOT. I believe that raising the fuel pressure with the AFPR will increase fuel injector flow enough to allow the engine computer to dial back the injector duty cycle below maximum at WOT and leave some headroom.

Sounds like you need bigger injectors then. Why not get some 24lbs?

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I thought of it but the 24lb injectors might be overkill for my current engine combo. I don't think I'll need more than a 10% increase in fuel flow to correct the 4100+rpm rpm leanness at WOT, so the AFPR should get the job done provided I can stop it leaking.
I found the source of the leak and it's actually from the gauge port. I followed BBK's instructions by putting teflon tape on the threaded bung that goes into the gauge port but it still leaked, so I've tried using thread sealant/locker instead and I'll see if that cures it.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

The thread sealant/locker worked like a charm and my BBK regulator is now leak-free.

 

[Methodical]

The thread sealant/locker worked like a charm and my BBK regulator is now leak-free.

Glad you got it to stop leaking. Keep us updated on how it works out.

Peace

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

I still don't know what my fuel pressure is. I couldn't install my Summit Racing fuel pressure gauge on the regulator 'cause it fouled on the upper intake so I bought an Autometer adapter so I can install it in place of the Schrader valve on the injector rail. The problem is that I don't have the 11/32" socket or wrench needed to remove the Schrader valve and I don't wanna crack the injector rail.
For now I'll have to make do with an estimate of where my fuel pressure might be. Does anyone who has the BBK AFPR know what is the "stock" fuel pressure that this regulator is set at, and how much the fuel pressure increases for each full turn of the hex adjustment screw? I have mine screwed in 3/4 of a turn.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Anyone?

 

[hollywoodstang]

There has been some articles about AFPR and our cars. Our computer adapts to different fuel requirements and therefore will negate any increase in fuel pressure via injector pulsewidth. Basically what I am saying is no matter how high you adjust fuel pressure the computer will compensate (adapt) to get it back to the AFR it commands and therefore renders the AFPR useless. You are better off with the stock regulator and getting a dyno tune to work out the gremlins. Use the money to buy a gauge if you don't already have one. I just removed my AFPR and installed a stock regulator because with the TwEECer all parameters must be stock, ie 38psi, 10* timing etc. Read the article below and you will understand what I speak of.


Here is a link to some good reading that better explains what I said: Ford Mustang | MustangWorks.com - EEC-IV Adaptive Control. Your best friend or your worst nightmare?

Great info!

You will need a gauge or fuel pressure tester from auto zone to do this. do not guess when it comes to fuel pressure.

 

[Dino Dino Bambino]

Never mind. I found a solution to my predicament and that's the Kirban fuel pressure gauge #1441. It includes the necessary adapters to screw onto the Schrader valve so I don't have to remove it. I'll report back on how it works once I have it installed.

 

[R.J.]

Great decision, the Kirban is a nice piece.