BBK Equal Lengths and GT40P's

Ok, I've had my car since highschool and at some point I thought it was a good idea to get a set of BBK equal length headers. I now know I shoulda just went ahead and got full lengths but was young and planning ahead wasn't my specialty. lol Now, I've had a set of GT40P heads sittin in the garage for the last year and a half that I have been slowly workin clean up porting in my spare time. A few months ago I lost my job, so now I have plenty of time on my hands to get the heads done, but now have these darn headers to worry about. I have looked at the ten different ways and have almost convinced myself they would work, and read what a forum moderator wrote somewhere about them working but possibly burning plug wires. I haven't however been able to find a single sole with a 94-95 who has actually tried it. So, if there is anybody out there that has tried to make them work, would you please off up some insight on which ports will and won't work and if it's possible to maybe make them work with heat and a hammer? I would just ditch them and get a set of longtubes like I actually want, but my finances won't allow it at the moment. Any experience is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Les

Today I got curious and decided to mess with this project some. First off, the stock "headers" off a 94-95 will NOT work without ALOT of bending. The driver's side #5, 6, and 7 are either touching the plug or darn near. Passenger's side is fine. Now on to the BBK equal lengths. The driver's side fits, but I may run the shorty plugs on #6 and 7 just for the added clearance for the boots. On the passenger side, it REQUIRES a shorty plug on #4 because the tube from #2 is very close with the stock plug. I am also going to heat and massage this down just a bit just for extra head room. I may also have to use a shorty plug on #3.

In summary, the equal lengths fit way better than I ever expected. A set of plug wires with 90* boots as with many non P headers will be needed, #4 plug will HAVE to be a shorty with possibly #2's header tube bent in a bit. I will update whether a shorty plug is actually NECESSARY or just a comfort zone on #3, 6, and 7 when I get ahold of a wire with a 90* boot on the end and will keep you posted on whether or not #2's tube needs to be bent once I find a shorty plug. If anyone has any questions please feel free to ask and I will try to help as of right now I have the heads AND headers off the car and can mock them up to get clear visuals.

And just a FYI, this is just to get everything to run, I will let everyone know if it's possible to change the plugs without pulling the headers when I get everything in the car. lol

The shorty plugs I am referring to are Accel part #P526S.

**Update**

I just realized that I had a 90* boot on my dizzy wire and headed out to the garage for some late night testing. The only plug that is REQUIRED to be a shorty plug is the #4. The rest of the boots clear with room to spare with 90* boots.