I definitely see what you guys mean on that one. I've heard a lot about dropping the K member to get at them easier. I've also heard the longtubes are better in the longrun.
Don't just listen to the " no gains ", it depends on what you need.If going with a N/A set-up I think you definitely want to look into longtubes. If your going the FI route than not such a big deal. I purchased shortys, for couple reason, I didn't want any clearance issues because I plan to lower it (I've driven in some slammed cars with longtubes and all I heard was metal on road and they regretted it), I didn't want to buy a new midpipe when my O/R prochamber is perfectly fine, and they may not gain 10 to 15 hp but they do make the exhaust sound considerably better.
This makes no sense, you didn't want to go with longtubes because they might scrape on the ground, and you don't care about performance, so... why would you even bother swapping? The only reasonable thing you suggest is the improvement of exhaust note, which is in the end totally subjective.
I should have said I had the motor torn apart doing a head swap that's why went ahead and got shorty's, a lot of money tied up in that. O and yes it makes perfect sense scraping on every bumpy road is ghetto in my opinion, and whats the difference between 420 or 430 or 435. I don't race, it's a hobby me and Dad used to do (God rest his soul). It came down to a fund issue and not wanting a clearance issue in the future so shorty's = good enough.
What I mean is that the shorties offer no performance over the stock manifolds, and the stock manifolds have no clearance issues, and require no modification with the H-pipe, just like the shorties, because you aren't changing anything. So if your plans were to drop the suspension, it wouldn't matter whether you left it alone or went to the trouble of installing shorties. So, there is only one reason to swap to shories, and that is for the sound.
Pretty sure you can't compare a Ford GT to a 1998 mustang GT, all I was saying is when you have all that extra power from a blower you wouldn't notice 10 to 15 horses. With a N/A set-up it's hard enough to reach over 300 so you would be looking for every hp mod available.As far as FI is concerned, scavenging from longtubes combined with exhaust cam profile is even more important FI than in NA. Read the article MM&FF did on a longtube header install on a Ford GT, I think it was in the last year or so. They gained over 100hp by doing nothing but swapping to longtubes.
On a 96 GT, what is the easiest way to get at the stock headers to replace them? Looks like quite a job from what I've been reading!
Just recently I found myself in your shoes. I went Long Tube and love it. It took us 11 hours... If we had been sober and not trying to kill the day I’m sure it could have been done in 4 to 5 hours. We didn’t need to drop anything however we loosen the motor mounts and jack up the motor 3-4 inches. my exhaust system is no lower than factory and the power gains are noticeable. By far the easiest and cheapest 30 hp you can get.
Remember when you are reading forums everyone wants to tell you a good story... its a 90 - 10 rule.
yea 30hp id like see the dyno chart, maybe with all the "bolt-ons", get real man. oh and theres nothin easy about spending 500-800 for a LT and mid pipe setup.
Ok fast97gt how much hp did the long tube headers that you put on your car make? If you know all, how much hp should Long tubes make? Check out Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords february 2010 addition they did a stock, Shorty, and Long tube dyno test. 30 hp for long tubes and o/r set up is not unrealistic. And it you can't afford long tubes don't put them on, but you wont find a cheaper way to dramatically increase the power and feel of the car.
Blackone51 - Here are some pics... Not any lower than stock.
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