Because we love electrical gremlins

[95Vert383AOD]

Ya know i forget the electrical issues ive just been dealing with lately.

Heres an interesting one. When i pull the driver door handle 75% of the time the light inside the mustang doesn't come on. I unlock and open the door...still no interior light. if i turn the ignition forward or back while the door is still open MAGICALLY the interior lights come on.

I don't think this is a door switch issue. Sometimes when i grab the handle or open the door it works perfectly fine. Ive had this issue since i bought the car almost 2 years ago.

 

[HISSIN50]

Are the ears on your ignition lock broken (they spin 360*)? If so, the ignition might not be exactly off, so the door module doesnt kick the light on when you lift the handle.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Hmmm i gotta test that out. I usually hit the window switch to make sure everything was off. I had this problem since before when i used the key/ ignition.

 

[HISSIN50]

The windows work with the key in the radio position as I recall. That might hose up that key test. Maybe slide the key most of the way out and rotate the cylinder (with the tip of the key - be careful not to bend/break the key) till the lock locks itself in the off position.

If the ears are broken, you can replace the lock or make some retention pins (I did the latter) to relocate the ears. There were either two or three pins stock and they shear off eventually.

Anything else and I'd have to look at the EVTM to see how the circuit works......

 

[BlackVert]

sorry, but i'm not getting this ...

are you saying that the light is only supposed to come on if the key is in the off position and you open the door?

and the light is not supposed to come on if you open the door, for example, with the engine running?

i dont think i've ever had a car that behaved like that. am i nuts? (if so, it wouldn't be the first time i was)

 

[95Vert383AOD]

sorry, but i'm not getting this ...

are you saying that the light is only supposed to come on if the key is in the off position and you open the door?

and the light is not supposed to come on if you open the door, for example, with the engine running?

i dont think i've ever had a car that behaved like that. am i nuts? (if so, it wouldn't be the first time i was)

Yeah im with you...i don't think it matters....when the door opens the interior light is supposed to come on. I hop in the car and it seems the interior lights don't come on. unless i move the ignition switch. Maybe its in "Stealth Entry" mode

I dont use a key. I have a lever directly connected to the switch via a transmission cable. Pic below or the blue rocker Arms. Left side (Yes strange/ Odd i know) Its my way of getting money back for my pro comp Rocker arms.

 

[madams74]

Dude, what the crap are we looking at? I would say you are going to have to deal with this custom setup on your own. We can only tell you what Ford has presented us in past troubleshooting. Not your own setup....Tranny cable, and Rocker Arms belong where they were intended to be.

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Dude, what the crap are we looking at? I would say you are going to have to deal with this custom setup on your own. We can only tell you what Ford has presented us in past troubleshooting. Not your own setup....Tranny cable, and Rocker Arms belong where they were intended to be.

Its connected to the Factory sliding switch ignition switch. It functions the exact same way except not on the steering wheel column. The ignition wiring hasn't changed. If alot of the issues on these forums were only related to stuff "FORD PRESENTED US WITH" then 90% of us would be SOL. No troubleshooting issues with supercharges, nitrous, aftermarket suspension etc. Because you cant buy what i did in a jegs/ summit mag doesn't mean i should be denied help.

With that said as i have said before the turning action of the lever i created operated the SAME as it would on the column....just not on the column. Sliding ignition box is still there. Electrical for that box still functions the same....i just created the mechanical aspect of how that switch is triggered. So weather i slide that switch using a ket or a home made lever its the SAME.

BTW this issue existed before created that lever.

 

[madams74]

Its connected to the Factory sliding switch ignition switch. It functions the exact same way except not on the steering wheel column. The ignition wiring hasn't changed. If alot of the issues on these forums were only related to stuff "FORD PRESENTED US WITH" then 90% of us would be SOL. No troubleshooting issues with supercharges, nitrous, aftermarket suspension etc. Because you cant buy what i did in a jegs/ summit mag doesn't mean i should be denied help.

With that said as i have said before the turning action of the lever i created operated the SAME as it would on the column....just not on the column. Sliding ignition box is still there. Electrical for that box still functions the same....i just created the mechanical aspect of how that switch is triggered. So weather i slide that switch using a ket or a home made lever its the SAME.

BTW this issue existed before created that lever.

No one should deny you help, but only you know what that monstrous picture is about. BET?? Good lord. You have the only Mustang in the world that is setup with 2 freaking rocker arms and a tranny cable rigged up. You explain that the ignition has something to do with the rig and also that the ignition switch has something to do with the quick fix. It easy to think that something was screwed up under the column when this was attempted. OK so now I know it was like this BEFORE your classy fix. I just have to ask WHY?? Just get a new key switch and be done with it.

 

[99FiveOh]

I'm with the guys who say that interior light system works independantly of the key position. It's supposed to come one ANYTIME the door opens. I know this because I once had that little switch on the door iteself get pushed into the door, and even while driving it would come on and stay on till I messed with it.

I know the headlight switch has the circuit going through it because it can override it and turn your dome light on and off regardless if the door is opened or closed. What I would do, is start with the switch on the door, test the wires going to it and see if they have power, then the wires going from it to see if it has power when it's in the "opened" position. Then go from there.

 

[HISSIN50]

We're not on the same page. The natural dome light function (triggered by the door pin switch) is different than the courtesy function that turns the light on when the handle is lifted (even if the door does not open). The latter is a timed function that extinguishes with the key going on and the door closed.

I assume verts have something similar (I only know coupes) but I guess some more qualifiers would help narrow this down.

Good luck.

 

[99FiveOh]

Wasn't that a feature on only 95's? I remember having that feature, but my 94 doesn't do it at all.

Edit: yes, I'm on a totally different page then you guys, I took my foot and placed it firmly in my mouth! Carry on....

 

[95Vert383AOD]

Thanks The_Mustang. Yeah i do many quirky things mechanical things. The lock cyl. wasnt busted but the sliding mech. that slides the switch. Ive done many many things to cars that people don't normally think of. I'm pretty good at building electro/mechanical switches and such with great success. Put it this way....noone knows how exactly to start/ drive my car.....i don't need fuel pump kill switches etc. Starting my car takes 2 hands and knowledge of a sequence. I like it this way.

But yeah ill check the headlight switch...its been giving me issues AGAIN. Didnt know it was related. Is there anyone who makes a quality replacement headlight switch that wont start acting up in 6-9 months. I believe the one i have now is made by Standard.

 

[99FiveOh]

Yeah, I guess some of what I said made sense. Thanks for the save man!

 

[HISSIN50]

Wasn't that a feature on only 95's? I remember having that feature, but my 94 doesn't do it at all.

It has to do with the keyless entry or alarm options, regardless of the year.

 

[madams74]

Lock the door, lift the handle. Light or not light? If no light, go to pass door and try. Anything? If not, box in trunk for Keyfob or illuminated entry may have problem. Do you hear click from box in trunk when lifting handle with door locked? Do you hear click from box after 10 seconds for what is now supposed to be the light turning off?? If yes box is probably OK but wiring may be the issue from it to lights in car. Door latch have a switch that is flagged from a rod and a plunger on the handle. Very small switch. Switch pushes in and twists to lock in place. Both doors have on vert but maybe not on coup. Both go to box in trunk. Verts do not have headliner light, but have rear view mirror with lights that are the same. Its the only difference. Box in trunk is behind the left wheel well (drivers side). Your ignition switch / steering column does a lot more than start car. Do not count it out. I would pull steering column plastic and use wrench to make sure screw in the harness plug from column is tight. You may have to re-seat. From my drawings I see that the Keylees module does the same as the illuminated entry module if you have keyless / theft module. Car without keyless entry you have a different type of module but it is in the same general area. The main light switch plays an important role it look in all the features of illuminated entry. Thats another connector that is known to get hot and actually melt. I have seen wires pull out from the overheated plug.