Beginning roller 347 assembly... have Q's (lots of pics)

[coolblue65]

Ok, let me start by saying its been awhile since I completely assembled a motor, and I have never done a roller motor so I have a couple questions (and will likely have many more).

Here is what I am starting with:

Its a DSS 347 shortblock, the AFR 185's are just sitting on the block and are not bolted down yet.

I have the rest of the parts from DSS to build the long block, in one baggy I got these:

They don't look paticularly familiar to me, unless I am being dense, can anyone identify?

Next I have never assembled a roller, but from what I have read the little dogbones go down first then the spider thing just sits on top of it then is bolted down- correct me if I am wrong please- also it seems they didnt provide me with the two bolts necessary anyone know what kind of bolts i need for it?

Lastly (for now) there appears to be a small oiling hole on one side of the lifter, does it matter which way it points?

THANKS!

 

[biggyfan1]

well first off nice heads. hehe i have the same ones. ok well about the oil holes, there is no right or wrong way to install then. But to me the best way is do face the holes tord the intake valley. im sure you can see why one would do that. the little screws i got at lowes and used lock tite to keep then in. i think i used like a grade #5 im sure it doesent matter tho.

 

[coolblue65]

anyone know what those pins are?

 

[SoCalCruising]

If you place the oil holes facing outward, it will take longer for the lifter to pump up with oil and they will tap until they do. So, they will work either way, but there is a "best" way to install them.

If you don't have them already, get thread chasers like these:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsearch.asp?N=700+4294925139+4294925137+115+4294853264
They should always be used to chase/clean the tapped holes in the blocka nd other parts, plus they allow you to find out the correct size in case you need to get a bolt or nut.

These dowl pins ... hmmm. They may be for locating your front cover to the block. See if they fit into the block, on either side, near the bottom. You do need dowls there in order to properly locate the front cover crank seal onto the crank.

 

[D.Hearne]

I don't know what those pins are, but the spyder hold down bolts need to be 1/4"NC X 3/4" grade 8 or 9. I would never use garde 5's for something that important. If one breaks, the spyder will be bounced off the lifters and then the lifters will be bounced up out of their bores. Or just as worse, the dog bones bounce off and the lifter(s) can turn sideways. When that happens you loose oil pressure, even with one lifter out. The rest may still be doing their job and with the engine running still........... well you get the message...........The dog bones go on the lifters with the dimples facing up, the spyder fingers sit on the dimples.

 

[D.Hearne]

The timing cover dowels look much like the head dowels, only smaller, those aren't them.

 

[coolblue65]

I picked up a pair of grade 8 bolts today with lock washers.

As far as the spyder goes, as it sits right now I have to push it down slightly to meet the surface of the block, I am assuming this is normal as it would act like spring putting tension on the dogbones, right?

 

[iapexl8r]

those dowels look like the ones that are installed in the back of the block to help line up the bellhousing.

 

[D.Hearne]

Yea, the spyder needs to be under tension when bolted down. iapexl8r is correct I believe, those are the dowels to line up the bell.

 

[coolblue65]

those dowels look like the ones that are installed in the back of the block to help line up the bellhousing.

No these are way to small for those. They look just like the cam/timing chain pin, just much shorter.

 

[Sicarius428]

Do they taper or is that the light? I can't remember on my HO block but does the timing cover have some allignment dowls?
Kevin

 

[coolblue65]

Yes, they do have a slight taper to them.

 

[D.Hearne]

Do they taper or is that the light? I can't remember on my HO block but does the timing cover have some allignment dowls?
Kevin

The late timing covers use two hollow dowels similar to the ones used on the heads. One bolt per side passes thru the dowels, second bolt up from the bottom I believe.

 

[D.Hearne]

I've looked at the pic of those two pins now twice but wasn't till the third time I noticed the ruler next to them. Looks like the bell housing alignment dowels