Belt routing Q

94Blue302GT

Member
Oct 20, 2003
704
3
19
Chicago
1. If you delete that big ol air pump (since i don't have emissions for two years as of last week) how do you route the belt? Doesn't it create a problem with not hitting the tensioner right?

2. I know that the size is about 89.5 or 90, but if i got ANOTHER belt for going to the track, and wanted to eliminate spinning the pully for AC, what size is that?

3. How about a belt to get rid of air pump, AC, and power steering?

4. Is getting rid of power steering beneficial at the track, or is it just annoying?

Basically, i'm trying to get the most out of my car cheaply and effectively.
 
I deleted my air pump and ran the stock belt for a while (tensioner took up all the slack). Got a new (shorter) belt after original one started to fray and got under drives on. Just take a piece of string and run it around pullies till it reaches where you started, cut it so that the two ends still touch (maybe even overlap 1/2 inch) and measure. Go to parts counter and say gimme ____ size belt! Thanks! And roll out... Hard part is getting new belt over tensioner (PITA - if you ask me).
 
You will get more out of deleting the powersteering at the track over the a/c. when the a/c is turned off it is just an idler and doesnt use any power.

I have a like new 90.0" 6rib belt that I just removed after less than 2 months use because it is too long for my underdrive crank/waterpump pulleys, and overdrive alternator pulley. Fit perfect on my stock pulleys with smog bypassed. pm offer?
 
94GTLaserRC said:
1. There is NO WAY that the tensioner will take up enough slack with a smog pump delete and still be positioned correctly.

2. For a few bucks more than buying a new belt, you can buy the smog pump delete pulley from UPR.

RC
many people have done so and had the tensioner positioned correctly. I am one of them. you dont have to have the delete pulley...imo whats the point in deleting it if the pump if you are still going to have something in that location
 
GTPhreak said:
many people have done so and had the tensioner positioned correctly. I am one of them.


I will NOT believe that the tensioner has lined up correctly until I see a pic. My tensioner is at the IMPROPER tension position when I change the RIGHT belt to one just 1" larger. How can you delete ALL that space that the belt would go to and STILL have the tensioner notch line up between the 2 lines? :shrug:

GTPhreak said:
.imo whats the point in deleting it if the pump if you are still going to have something in that location

because it's not taking any extra work to turn that pulley if the pump is gone..just like if the A/C is off, the belt is just spinning around the pulley. From what Ive read, deleting the smog is only good for 1-3HP anyway.


RC
RC
 
Thanks guys, especially for the pic. Getting 1 - 3 horse is good, imo. If that helps me edge out the next guy, or helps compensate for my less experienced drag driving, then it'll go on there, at least at the track. I'm thinking of getting rid of the air pump because We're pulling the whole motor to do a cam swap(and port and polish heads and intake, sorry, i have no money) and then check over bearings, oil pan gasket, etc. etc. so I think it will clean it all up, and make the reinstall a lot easier.
Thanks again!
Lee
 
Sorry to bring this "done" thread back, but if i DO delete steering and AC, does the belt go on the other side of the idler? It looks to me like that would work best. Also, wouldn't no power steering be a pain, even at the track? Or would i be able to muscle it around half way decent?
Thanks again!