benefits from conversion

one reason: if you want to get lumpy (run a cam and be left with diminished vacuum), you will likely need to convert.
 
On a stock Mustang, there is no reason to convert. Might even lose a little power.

It's really only required when you start getting into heavy mods and tuning is an issue.
 
i am converting mine now expecting to lose power but i plan to put in a cam or forced induction what ever i have teh money fro a month from now... so i want to make sure teh car runs good right after the conversion and not do to much at one time and ahve to wonder which mod is making th car run liek *****
 
well, since i have to order a new ECU, is there any that I should look into that also increase power even if it is for 92 octane?
Also, what is all included other the wiring, performance MAF and new ECU?
I am pretty sure I can find a better deal then the Ford Racing kit out of Jegs.
 
Gutless - have you got emissions inspection to pass there in WA? It'll likely help with that in addition to allowing you more flexibility on the mods. The SD's can be modded - but the ecu bases a number of it's calculations on the manifold pressure/vacuum. So anything that significantly alters that - as many cams do - can negatively impact drivability, mileage, emissions, etc. There are cams that will work however - you may want to post again and specifically as the SD crowd to tell what cams might work, and which ones to stay away from.
 
You can get a MAF conversion from a junk yard for a hell of alot cheaper than a FRPP kit. Get a stock MAF meter from an 89-93 Mustang 5.0, along with the computer, and the harness that plugs into the MAF meter. Go find someone good with electronics, and have him follow the instructions which can be found in the Tech part of Stangnet to wire it in. It involves moving a few pins on the EEC harness, soldering in some wire to the MAF harness, and putting those wires into the EEC harness. Once that's done, you swap your computer for the new one, attach the MAF to your air intake tube, and plug it in. Start your car. If it runs ok after maybe three days ( the computer needs to learn) then you did it right. Once you know you have done a STOCK MAF conversion properly, then think about getting a performance sized MAF and maybe bigger injectors. I highly reccomend doing the conversion with stock parts first, only because if you got seconhand performance parts that are broken, you won't know what's causing the problem. Plus, you can always sell your stock MAF later on to someone doing what you're doing now.