Besides under the rear axle housing, where to place jackstands

russosborne · Nov 22, 2009

at under the rear of the car. Say for ex. you are swapping out the rear and the leaf springs.

Thanks,
Russ

dmoody · Nov 23, 2009

Look at your leaf spring eye mount (directly under the rear seat) or the rear bumper mount... those are the only two areas strong enough to hold.

d

russosborne · Nov 23, 2009

Thanks. Didn't think about the bumper mount. That would probably be the best until after I get the leaf springs out.
Russ

78CobraII · Nov 23, 2009

If you have any rust on the bottom, you'll probably need to remove the front and rear leaf spring hangers to clean and paint under them. I recommend putting jack stands as far to the outside of the front suspension crossmember as possible, and under the rocker panels just forward of the rear wheel wells.

Removing the front springs on a Mustang II without the weight of the engine on them can be very tricky. The front shocks act as a limiter to the motion of the lower A-arm, so if the engine is missing and you remove the shock, you'll have to use spring compressors to reinstall it. Removing either upper or lower balljoint without either spring compressors or the weight of the engine on the front suspension is guarenteed to cause sudden lengthening of the spring!

russosborne · Nov 25, 2009

Thanks.

I am not sure if the rockers are ok or not. I ought to just use the stands under the rear axle so I can get under the car and see what shape everything is in.

Can you tell I am a little reluctant to get under the car?
I haven't gotten used to the amount of rust that cars in Ohio have. Spent almost my entire life in Phoenix AZ. Rust isn't an issue there.

Russ

7991LXnSHO · Feb 8, 2020

Russ, did you ever get under the car, and ... did you get out alive?
Yes, I am aware how old this thread is. I am not sure why it popped up under the active ones. I hope the thread is the only zombie here.

Adieu · Feb 11, 2020

Pinch welds work just fine too, by the way, for anyone else looking at this old thread.

kiddiccarus · Feb 11, 2020

74stang2togo said:
Pinch welds work just fine too, by the way, for anyone else looking at this old thread.

Brings up a good point, Where to support the car is probably the most important thing in any of our builds. If not supported correctly, we can do more harm than good in the end, to the vehicle or ourselves. This Picture is NOT what the "OP" was asking about but will serve to get my point across. As you can see the car at this point was on 4 Jack Stands but prior was on 2 in the front and ramps in the rear. It was supported properly. Then I had to get the rear end higher and posed a problem. Since the rear was on ramps and I needed the pumpkin elevated, I needed to fine out how to get this up.

1. The first idea was to simply use a floor jack to do this and then support it properly. That wouldn't work because as we all know a floor jack will roll the car to the direction the fulcrum takes it. So Since I could not do that with the front on jack stands and no wheels, I needed a better solution.

2. The next idea was to use an old bottle jack and to straight up. Mind you this was a jack that I planned to be rid of since I never had a use for it before. Gladly I didn't do that. So, in the picture you can see that I used a few pieces of wood for spacers and slowly rose the car to a desired height.

----- In this, I had the choices of where to stabilize it.
----- 1. On the Pinch Rail
----- 2. On the Axle
----- 3. On the Pumpkin

I was going to use the pinch rail, but in that I figured I would lose room to move under the car because I was using the cinder block and jack stand combo, plus my reason to lift was to get clearance to remove the 4 12pt 12mm bolts on the drive shaft.

I chose the route that you see here. Cinder block under the jack stand and then lowered the bottle jack so it isn't touching. (The Jack Stands are on the Axle)

Just my .02 here to add to this old thread.

HMMMMMM...... Maybe we can prod someone like a "Janitor" around here to put in a good word for a "Safety" section.... Were we can place helpful information like this and pictures to show good solutions.

Adieu · Feb 11, 2020

kiddiccarus said:
Brings up a good point, Where to support the car is probably the most important thing in any of our builds. If not supported correctly, we can do more harm than good in the end, to the vehicle or ourselves. This Picture is NOT what the "OP" was asking about but will serve to get my point across. As you can see the car at this point was on 4 Jack Stands but prior was on 2 in the front and ramps in the rear. It was supported properly. Then I had to get the rear end higher and posed a problem. Since the rear was on ramps and I needed the pumpkin elevated, I needed to fine out how to get this up.

1. The first idea was to simply use a floor jack to do this and then support it properly. That wouldn't work because as we all know a floor jack will roll the car to the direction the fulcrum takes it. So Since I could not do that with the front on jack stands and no wheels, I needed a better solution.

2. The next idea was to use an old bottle jack and to straight up. Mind you this was a jack that I planned to be rid of since I never had a use for it before. Gladly I didn't do that. So, in the picture you can see that I used a few pieces of wood for spacers and slowly rose the car to a desired height.

----- In this, I had the choices of where to stabilize it.
----- 1. On the Pinch Rail
----- 2. On the Axle
----- 3. On the Pumpkin

I was going to use the pinch rail, but in that I figured I would lose room to move under the car because I was using the cinder block and jack stand combo, plus my reason to lift was to get clearance to remove the 4 12pt 12mm bolts on the drive shaft.

I chose the route that you see here. Cinder block under the jack stand and then lowered the bottle jack so it isn't touching. (The Jack Stands are on the Axle)

Just my .02 here to add to this old thread.

HMMMMMM...... Maybe we can prod someone like a "Janitor" around here to put in a good word for a "Safety" section.... Were we can place helpful information like this and pictures to show good solutions.

Cinder blocks are a bad idea under cars. I've done it too, I'll admit, but I've not only heard/read about them crumbling without warning, it happened to me once. Luckily I wasn't under that car when it happened.

kiddiccarus · Feb 11, 2020

left the ramps there as a safety precaution. I used to have 2 Solid Blocks but cant remember where I used them. When I extend my driveway (what these blocks are for) I will make 2 more solid blocks which will work better

jozsefsz · Feb 12, 2020

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkbrPmIBrcA

Besides under the rear axle housing, where to place jackstands

russosborne

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dmoody

russosborne

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78CobraII

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russosborne

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7991LXnSHO

wanna catch the space herp

Adieu

Easy there, this ain't a dating site.

kiddiccarus

The first widely accepted Tranny

Adieu

Easy there, this ain't a dating site.

kiddiccarus

The first widely accepted Tranny

jozsefsz

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Besides under the rear axle housing, where to place jackstands

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Member

Moderator

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wanna catch the space herp

Easy there, this ain't a dating site.

The first widely accepted Tranny

Easy there, this ain't a dating site.

The first widely accepted Tranny

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