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Engine Best Cam For A 347

  • Thread starter Thread starter Dave34
  • Start date Start date Jan 10, 2015
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Dave34

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#1
  • Jan 10, 2015
  • #1
i was going to put a 347 in my 1991 Gt and i wanted to know the best cam for it right know i have stock heads, but i was going to get better ones eventually. right now i have headers offroad h pipe 76mm, 75mm tb, BBK cai, 36 pound injectors and gt40 intake
 

A5literMan

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#2
  • Jan 10, 2015
  • #2
Do not get a cam until you get the heads! Wasting your time. What are your goals with this engine? Daily driver? Street/strip? Strip only? If you do a cam with those heads and intake it will perform like crap. Make about the same amount of power as a bolt on 302! The extra cubes will mean nothing. You might have a little more torque down low but that's it. If money is real tight at least get some gt40 heads and have them done. Better yet look for some used aluminum heads. The corral has good used(some are even brand new but never run) every day. For example TFS 170's go for 700-900$ all the time. You should have at least 185-190's for a 347 but 170's will work. Any alum head will make at least 50 more horsepower over stock heads and the proper cam/head/intake combo will probably make 100-150+ more power!! That intake is to small also unless you just want some low end torque. You're going to be disappointed if you don't swap to the right parts. I'd sell the intake,plenty of 302 guys still want one, it is a nice looking intake. Look for a Holley systemax(again used 3-450$) or edelbrock rpmII,TFS track heat or Box R(depending on goals,heads,hood,etc). TFS or AFR 185-205 heads, and then a good cam. I prefer a custom grind but plenty of off the shelf cam providers like Comp Cams/Lunati/TFS can set you up. Stay away from ford motorsports alphabet cams like the almighty B303,E303,etc. they are outdated and don't perform as well as the new stuff.
 
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Dave34

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#3
  • Jan 10, 2015
  • #3
i wanted it for a daily which heads do you suggest if i'm on a budget
 
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Dave34

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#4
  • Jan 10, 2015
  • #4
also the guy i bought the car from said it had LTD heads on it do you know which ones would have fit on my car
 

A5literMan

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#5
  • Jan 10, 2015
  • #5
Well disregard most of my rant above! Lol. A gt40 head can be purchased completely finished on places like eBay for around 500$. They are way better than stock heads but light years behind a TFS/AFR head. So...either a gt40 or a TFS 170cc used head is my advise. After you get the heads you can get your camshaft selected. I'd run a fairly mild ots cam. A lot depends on if auto/manual trans and rear gear ratio. You can go to Comp Cams/Lunati/etc web sites and they have a cam selection area that you fill out. They will then contact you and recommend one for you. Remember if this is a daily driver you have to use parts that will work for daily commuting. No reason to run some big nasty cam that is going to hurt fuel consumption and play havoc with things like power brakes.
 
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Dave34

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#6
  • Jan 10, 2015
  • #6
its a manual and i have the 308 gears
 

mikestang63

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#7
  • Jan 10, 2015
  • #7
Ok- this may sound harsh but not meant to be. I am trying to save you some heartache and money.

Why on earth would you go through the trouble, time, and expense to build a 347 and leave stock heads on it. You will be VERY dissapointed. There is NO reason to build a stroker motor unless you plan on getting a good set of heads, cam, and other supporting parts. Just do a stock rebuild.

That being said, a set of GT40 heads on a 347 IMO will be a dog. You need at least a set of AFR or TFS 205 heads and either an Ed Curtis custom cam or a tfs stage 3 or comp cams extreme cam and matching valve springs.

Right now, you have a bunch of mismatched parts that will produce a lousy combination. The intake is a choke point for a 347, the injectors and throttle body are too large, and I bet that is a C&L Mass air.

The first thing you need to do is determine your budget and goals. Expect to spend around $4-5000 for a decent 347 build. Too much? then save up. Then realize with all that new found power, your transmission, cooling, braking, and suspension need to be upgraded. Actually, the first thing I would do is get rid of the 3.08's to at least a 3.55 gear.
 
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Noobz347

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#8
  • Jan 10, 2015
  • #8
I skimmed.

I saw "stock heads" and "347".

I didn't see any room for additional discussion. :shutup:
 
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Dave34

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Jan 11, 2015
#9
  • Jan 11, 2015
  • #9
I found some ported gt40 heads with bronze guides th 1.94/1.6 valves I'll probably pick those up
 

A5literMan

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#10
  • Jan 11, 2015
  • #10
Just a fyi if you are running those heads make sure they have the upgraded valve springs. The factory ones are weak and you can't run a aftermarket cam. Also that combo with the right cam will run fine but you're not going to make much power. Maybe 300 or so rwhp or basically the same as most h/c/i 302's.
 

A5literMan

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#11
  • Jan 11, 2015
  • #11
After re reading these posts including mine I feel I might have mislead you slightly. If at all possible sell the intake. Do not run gt40 heads. Buy some TFS or AFR aluminum heads! Buy a good intake(it will be basically a swap after you sell the gt40). Your MAF and inj would be fine if you run enough intake,heads and a good cam. If you run the parts you're talking about those (inj tb) are to big. You have to decide which way you want to go. Otherwise you're going to have a poor running dog of a 347. Also like mike stated you need more rear gear. 3.55 is a great street/fun ratio. You will not see a drop in fuel economy(maybe 1mpg at worse) and the car will have more zip. Gears alone will feel like 30-40hp more. A good h/c/i would be a Holley systemax/rpm II or TFS trackheat. TFS 170's for heads and contact a cam representative at either COMP cams or Lunati. You could have a very healthy street combo if you do it correctly. If not it will be a dog.
 

2000xp8

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#12
  • Jan 11, 2015
  • #12
Let's start with what you actually have right now.
Do you actually have a 347 shortblock?
If so, is it in the car?

For sure lose the 36lb injectors, that's a size that has little use and not using them should eliminate a costly tune that at your level you don't need.

A 76mm meter is a C&L, When you determine your final combination of parts, get the right injectors (not 36's) and a pro m, (not c&l) calibrated for the new injectors.

If the parts you list are what is on the car right now other than the 347, put the stock meter and injectors back in.
 
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