I have a 75mm throttle body and egr plate, BBK cold air intake, 1:7 full roller rockers, double wound comp cams valve springs, long tube headers, flowmaster exhaust, 4.10 gears, aluminum under drive pulleys but im looking for a good cam for it. i was thinking ford racing (f303 or x303) but i heard they are outdated and doesnt give you much more power than the stock cam.
Best Cam For My 91 5.0
- Thread starter awellman
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just call lunati or comp ,crane ect, tell em your set up,what your gona use the car for , there pretty good at giving recommendations on cams. thats what i ended up doing , good luck
mikestang63
SN Certified Technician
stock E7's? Don't bother with a cam until you get a better set of heads IMO. You already have 1.7 RR which increased your lift to about a B cam. Remember when you start playing around with cams, drive ability and idle quality come to play. When you are ready I would recommend calling Ed Curtis for a custom cam that will perform better than any off the shelf cam and still maintain good idle.
Sigh... no one can tell you what is a waste of money and what is not.
If you are going to cam a stock head combo you have to decide how much power you are willing to give up to maintain near stock drive-ability, or conversely, how much drive-ability you are willing to give up in the name of power... or how much of both you are willing to give up to keep most of each.
Once you determine your goals my advice on ensuring your goals are met would be to contact a cam designer. My money goes to Buddy Rawls (3 times now) as he seems to really enjoying making something out of what most refer to as "nothing".
A custom cam, spring package... you'll be looking at the better part of $500 to make about 25-30rwhp more then what you are looking at now.(or more hp if you want to sacrifice more drive-ability).
Or go with the F-cam and spring package for the better part of $400 to make about 15-20rwhp more and give up some drive-ability to the custom at the same time.
What the guys above are not making clear is, with aftermarket heads you can make the same power, or more without giving up drive-ability.
But to say cam'n E7's is a waste of money... well... once you have done all the bolt ons to a stock long block, you will be hard pressed to make 30+ wheel hp for $500.
Sure you can pick up GT40's cheap, but once they are cleaned and freshened up you've not saved any money over the custom cam route.
If you are going to cam a stock head combo you have to decide how much power you are willing to give up to maintain near stock drive-ability, or conversely, how much drive-ability you are willing to give up in the name of power... or how much of both you are willing to give up to keep most of each.
Once you determine your goals my advice on ensuring your goals are met would be to contact a cam designer. My money goes to Buddy Rawls (3 times now) as he seems to really enjoying making something out of what most refer to as "nothing".
A custom cam, spring package... you'll be looking at the better part of $500 to make about 25-30rwhp more then what you are looking at now.(or more hp if you want to sacrifice more drive-ability).
Or go with the F-cam and spring package for the better part of $400 to make about 15-20rwhp more and give up some drive-ability to the custom at the same time.
What the guys above are not making clear is, with aftermarket heads you can make the same power, or more without giving up drive-ability.
But to say cam'n E7's is a waste of money... well... once you have done all the bolt ons to a stock long block, you will be hard pressed to make 30+ wheel hp for $500.
Sure you can pick up GT40's cheap, but once they are cleaned and freshened up you've not saved any money over the custom cam route.
in response to a forum member stating;
...That's moot anyway 'cause nobody in his right mind is going to use an aggressive cam with stock heads...
Buddy Rawls replies;
why?
With such limited inlet flow capability, steep ramp rates and higher lift lobes (becuase of the steeper ramps) are what it takes to fill the cylinder. Then with such limited inlet flow there is no reason to open the exhaust early, so the LSA is narrow. Basically a proper stock headed cam looks nothing like a typical aftermarket headed camshaft.
As far as max lift. A stock uncut E7 head (or virtually any stock 289/302/351W) when paired on a 289/302 with 4 eyebrow flat-top stock or replacement can take around 150 degrees (.200" lobe lift) installed around 102 intake CL and exhaust CL around 110. 150 degrees .at 200" lobe lift will typically fall in the low/mid 230's (.050") with a hyd roller. super steep ramps will have less at .050, and lazier ramps may go as high 240 (.050) or so. Still it needs to be checked though.
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...That's moot anyway 'cause nobody in his right mind is going to use an aggressive cam with stock heads...
Buddy Rawls replies;
why?
With such limited inlet flow capability, steep ramp rates and higher lift lobes (becuase of the steeper ramps) are what it takes to fill the cylinder. Then with such limited inlet flow there is no reason to open the exhaust early, so the LSA is narrow. Basically a proper stock headed cam looks nothing like a typical aftermarket headed camshaft.
As far as max lift. A stock uncut E7 head (or virtually any stock 289/302/351W) when paired on a 289/302 with 4 eyebrow flat-top stock or replacement can take around 150 degrees (.200" lobe lift) installed around 102 intake CL and exhaust CL around 110. 150 degrees .at 200" lobe lift will typically fall in the low/mid 230's (.050") with a hyd roller. super steep ramps will have less at .050, and lazier ramps may go as high 240 (.050) or so. Still it needs to be checked though.
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